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Opinion on Vallejo Model Air paints


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Honestly after using MRP for the last few years, and then switching to some Model Air paint I had initially purchased for my HpH Walrus, I cant say it any better than Kev did.

Adhesion can be a big issue too if you're not using a laquer based primer.

Hand brushing? Very nice.

Air brushing?      Very problematic.

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I've used Vallejo Model Air (VMA) and Vallejo Model (VM).  VMA worked well for me as long as surface prep is good.  

 

I slowly moved to Tamiya and Gunze mainly because these paints played well with Gunze MLT and Rapid Thinner.  I also had issues with Vallejo clears.  Could have been user error on the clears.  I found Gunze and Tamiya clears worked better for me.  When MRP hit my bench, my VMA paints were promptly retired. 

 

VM & Panzer Aces paints are still on my bench as they have excellent leveling qualities and are excellent for brush painting.  Especially cockpit details.  When brushed over lacquer paints there is zero bleed.  Once in awhile I'll thin VM paints for airbrush with great results. 

 

VMA and VM paints are great if you need a non lacquer based paint for your bench.  They play nice with olfactory senses.

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I don’t have a problem using Vallejo, Ammo Mig, or AK Interactive acrylics.  Two things are that you need to prime first and also need to make sure to use the right thinner.  The thinner is especially important for Vallejo as the Model Air and Model Colors use different thinners.  I spray at around 15-20 psi and thin as needed (even the Model Air colors, which they claim are airbrush ready).  There are also retarders or flow improvers that can be added to prevent drying at the airbrush tip.  I also like Mission Models paints, which have a great finish.

 

I’m sure that MRP is the greatest paint on earth, but won’t use them because of the smell.

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I'm new to this airbrushing game and don't know any better... but so far, I've had no problems at all with ModelAir paint, beyond needing to keep the tip clean. No problems with adhesion on either of my completed builds, nor on the Viper that's underway - and that's with no primer coat at all. The only colour I've been under-impressed with (so far) is yellow, which was very translucent and needed several coats to look right but as I recall from my youth yellow was always that way.

 

I'm using a Paashe Talon, and spray at 12-15psi undiluted - except for the varnish coats, which I thin roughly 3:1 with water.  So far, so good - at least, good enough for me - and I like the fact that there are no nasty vapours to contend with.

 

I agree that they brush very well.

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4 hours ago, nmayhew said:

however hard it is to get MRP, they are worth it

 

unless you have a specific medical issue that precludes the use of lacquers, you'd be insane to move to anything acrylic, especially vallejo

 

 


There are other reasons for not wanting to use lacquers besides specific medical issues or insanity.

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I moved to Vallejo Model Air a few years ago when supply of Gunze acrylic dried up in the USA (sorry).  I learned a lot about airbrushing working with this paint.  I use a larger tip diameter/size with less needle taper for most work now. Only variation of the ratio of thinner is required. Mixing paint in the airbrush cup is problematic; causes clogging. Small tip with long tapered needle requires more dilution and some drying retardant. Luftwaffe camouflage requires a layer approach.   As mentioned earlier I keep the tip clean using the Vallejo thinner. 

 

I needed to (Vallejo) prime all the time and use Mr. Surfacer primer on resin.  Note that Tamiya acrylic requires all the same care.

 

I solder on because am so done with all the ventilation requirements and PPE for spraying lacquer based paint.  I shoot Mr. Surfacer in the garage twice a month with the doors open.  

Edited by Rick Griewski
Not insane
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I've used Vallejo and Vallejo Model Air; my main problem is that they seem to have a rather short shelf life, particularly once you open the bottle.  I've given up on the metallics: they look good once applied, but next day the black undercoat is showing though: you seem to lose a lot of the metallic pigment in the curing.

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