ericg Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 Hi guys, Finding it harder to get my usual Gunze and Tamiya paints as well as MRP paint here in Australia. Most of the shops in my area stock Vallejo and I was seeking honest opinions as to what they are like. cheers, Eric. Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 I think they're second-rate for airbrushing, compared to what you're used to - especially MRP. They're usable with a bit of work, but only if you can't get the others you've mentioned. Vallejo is my go-to range for brush painting, though. Kev Daniel Leduc, Out2gtcha, Fanes and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.B. Andrus Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 10 minutes ago, LSP_Kevin said: I think they're second-rate for airbrushing, compared to what you're used to - especially MRP. They're usable with a bit of work, but only if you can't get the others you've mentioned. Vallejo is my go-to range for brush painting, though. Kev +1 Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 Honestly after using MRP for the last few years, and then switching to some Model Air paint I had initially purchased for my HpH Walrus, I cant say it any better than Kev did. Adhesion can be a big issue too if you're not using a laquer based primer. Hand brushing? Very nice. Air brushing? Very problematic. chrish and nmayhew 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 I used to use Vallejo but to be honest never really got on that well with them, air brush clogging and spitting was my main issue. You have to get the thinning just right, but give me MRP straight out of the bottle every time. Daniel Leduc and ChuckD 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warbird Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 I use them for brush painting only. I tried once spraying them and wouldn't recommend. nmayhew and Daniel Leduc 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 I've used Vallejo Model Air (VMA) and Vallejo Model (VM). VMA worked well for me as long as surface prep is good. I slowly moved to Tamiya and Gunze mainly because these paints played well with Gunze MLT and Rapid Thinner. I also had issues with Vallejo clears. Could have been user error on the clears. I found Gunze and Tamiya clears worked better for me. When MRP hit my bench, my VMA paints were promptly retired. VM & Panzer Aces paints are still on my bench as they have excellent leveling qualities and are excellent for brush painting. Especially cockpit details. When brushed over lacquer paints there is zero bleed. Once in awhile I'll thin VM paints for airbrush with great results. VMA and VM paints are great if you need a non lacquer based paint for your bench. They play nice with olfactory senses. CANicoll 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Williams Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 I don’t have a problem using Vallejo, Ammo Mig, or AK Interactive acrylics. Two things are that you need to prime first and also need to make sure to use the right thinner. The thinner is especially important for Vallejo as the Model Air and Model Colors use different thinners. I spray at around 15-20 psi and thin as needed (even the Model Air colors, which they claim are airbrush ready). There are also retarders or flow improvers that can be added to prevent drying at the airbrush tip. I also like Mission Models paints, which have a great finish. I’m sure that MRP is the greatest paint on earth, but won’t use them because of the smell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 however hard it is to get MRP, they are worth it unless you have a specific medical issue that precludes the use of lacquers, you'd be insane to move to anything acrylic, especially vallejo mozart and Gazzas 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sepp Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 I'm new to this airbrushing game and don't know any better... but so far, I've had no problems at all with ModelAir paint, beyond needing to keep the tip clean. No problems with adhesion on either of my completed builds, nor on the Viper that's underway - and that's with no primer coat at all. The only colour I've been under-impressed with (so far) is yellow, which was very translucent and needed several coats to look right but as I recall from my youth yellow was always that way. I'm using a Paashe Talon, and spray at 12-15psi undiluted - except for the varnish coats, which I thin roughly 3:1 with water. So far, so good - at least, good enough for me - and I like the fact that there are no nasty vapours to contend with. I agree that they brush very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Williams Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 4 hours ago, nmayhew said: however hard it is to get MRP, they are worth it unless you have a specific medical issue that precludes the use of lacquers, you'd be insane to move to anything acrylic, especially vallejo There are other reasons for not wanting to use lacquers besides specific medical issues or insanity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Griewski Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 (edited) I moved to Vallejo Model Air a few years ago when supply of Gunze acrylic dried up in the USA (sorry). I learned a lot about airbrushing working with this paint. I use a larger tip diameter/size with less needle taper for most work now. Only variation of the ratio of thinner is required. Mixing paint in the airbrush cup is problematic; causes clogging. Small tip with long tapered needle requires more dilution and some drying retardant. Luftwaffe camouflage requires a layer approach. As mentioned earlier I keep the tip clean using the Vallejo thinner. I needed to (Vallejo) prime all the time and use Mr. Surfacer primer on resin. Note that Tamiya acrylic requires all the same care. I solder on because am so done with all the ventilation requirements and PPE for spraying lacquer based paint. I shoot Mr. Surfacer in the garage twice a month with the doors open. Edited September 25, 2020 by Rick Griewski Not insane CANicoll 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leitch Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 Its the Acrylic solids in the paint that are dangerous so PPE is every bit as important. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 I've used Vallejo and Vallejo Model Air; my main problem is that they seem to have a rather short shelf life, particularly once you open the bottle. I've given up on the metallics: they look good once applied, but next day the black undercoat is showing though: you seem to lose a lot of the metallic pigment in the curing. mozart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 23 hours ago, Dave Williams said: There are other reasons for not wanting to use lacquers besides specific medical issues or insanity. go on, I'm all ears...* *we are talking about airbrushing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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