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JetMads 1/32 Viggen


Scotsman

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I would like to know how many think that this is doable from a personal standpoint:

instr.jpg

 

Step 3 and 4 are interchangeable. For some it might be easier the other way around than described, because you will be able to align using the already painted stuff.

Edited by Eagle Driver
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That does look good, Just a thought though around painting the yellow ring over dark blue.

 

Would it be worth having step 1 as a paint white ring then yellow then blue if that makes sense? 

 

Im just thinking about the darkness of the blue bleeding through the yellow especially if we are trying to keep the paint layers as thin as possible?:hmmm:

 

That said, My experience with masks is a little limited in this regard. 

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9 minutes ago, Phartycr0c said:

That does look good, Just a thought though around painting the yellow ring over dark blue.

 

Would it be worth having step 1 as a paint white ring then yellow then blue if that makes sense? 

 

Im just thinking about the darkness of the blue bleeding through the yellow especially if we are trying to keep the paint layers as thin as possible?:hmmm:

 

That said, My experience with masks is a little limited in this regard. 

 

 

Yep, yellow is in my book, the hardest color to build up. Im definitely ordering masks for them, but when I go to shoot the Swedish roundels I'm going to:

 - lay down all white first

- then spray the crows and ring

- then blue back ground

- then would come the black outlines.

Only way to go IMHO, as yellow almost always needs a white background to look right.  Again, just my opinion, but I would not do the blue first, as it will most assuredly make the yellow look off compared to how bright its supposed to look. 

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2 minutes ago, Phartycr0c said:

...

It can be done in different ways, since the masks are reusable and if you'd like to cover already painted section with the mask already used, it can be done.

But this is a matter of personal preference.


Now another important point is - what paints will be used. Some old-school paints do not require care, but curing time.

Newer paints are the other way around.

Also, paints not meant to be used for models can be used. We have a guy who uses our masks regularly and he paints with some of the paints he has in his auto shop.

Beats me why though.

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4 minutes ago, Out2gtcha said:

 

 

Yep, yellow is in my book, the hardest color to build up.

I agree, but here's a proof that it can be done as a final step /as it was done on the real airplane as well/

https://reddogsmodels.wordpress.com/2020/03/26/1-24-spitfire-mkvb-to-lf-mk-ix-conversion-349-sqn-raf-belgium-part-2-painting-and-weathering/

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4 minutes ago, Eagle Driver said:

I agree, but here's a proof that it can be done as a final step /as it was done on the real airplane as well/

https://reddogsmodels.wordpress.com/2020/03/26/1-24-spitfire-mkvb-to-lf-mk-ix-conversion-349-sqn-raf-belgium-part-2-painting-and-weathering/

 

For sure its possible, I myself have done it many times, but the issue is really the base color. Yellow (depending on paint brand, if you are like me and use MRP this next part is a 100% definite) needs a white background to look right in most cases. In my case with MRP, painting the blue first I dont think is really an option. You could do the blue first with MRP, but after much experience with MRP, I virtually guarantee the yellow will not look correct.

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1 minute ago, Out2gtcha said:

 

 

For sure its possible, I myself have done it many times, but the issue is really the base color. Yellow (depending on paint brand, if you are like me and use MRP this next part is a 100% definite) needs a white background to look right in most cases. In my case with MRP, painting the blue first I dont think is really an option.

I think I saw splinter camo last somewhere in your post, that is why I posted the rest. IMHO, splinter should come first, not the insignia, although some have done it that way too. 

But yes, this way if putting it - it is also doable, since the masks allow for separate pieces to be re-used. And the option added should be sufficient to approach it in different ways. 
Just a suggestion in the instruction, because the roundel will be the most tricky part and we are not sure will everybody manage to pull that off. 

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44 minutes ago, Eagle Driver said:

I would like to know how many think that this is doable from a personal standpoint:

instr.jpg

 

Step 3 and 4 are interchangeable. For some it might be easier the other way around than described, because you will be able to align using the already painted stuff.

 

Looks good to me (the order, colours and paint types can be altered by the modeller if desired as mentioned). Good colour match/reference is probably more important here, as there are two distinctly different blues used in the markings (a medium or darker blue), and that doesn't even take into account weathering!

 

Good luck.

 

Derek

Edited by Derek B
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