Jump to content

Quinta Studio - 3D printed interior for NEW P-51D, Su-25, F-16C


Jan_G

Recommended Posts

On 9/9/2020 at 9:31 PM, thierry laurent said:

Hi Quang. I get this point but I do not see how I could get a similar result with a paintbrush. If you know a technique that allows the reproduction of such details, please share it with me. The only system that more or less reached a similar level of detail was the old Waldron print but each part was monochrome. 

 

I didn't want to post on this topic anymore but as you keep on repeating it - come on Thierry, a thin brush, white paint and a bit of time... it's been done by many modelers for years and looked just as good as the Quinta parts. In addition, there are excellent decals from Anyz and other companies making your life much easier. Looks as good and you did it yourself and didn't only peel them off a carrier paper. 

Who complained about 3D printing anyway? I surely didn't. The only thing I personally don't quite like about them is the fact they are pre-painted (or printed, call it as you will) which means using them requires 0 skill from the modeler (and please don't start all over with the argument that it required skill to create this product, that's not the point!). 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, it looks we agree on the fact we disagree as I've never seen anyone painting white stencils with such a regularity and micro-detail accuracy. I've seen really crazy things from Russian figure painters close to twenty years ago in UK but nothing vaguely equivalent in cockpit painting techniques.

 

I wouldn't argue for black on white. But for white on black, this is a problem as you either have too thick lines, either not enough color density to cover the black background. This is why I was sincerely asking if he had a relevant technique allowing to succeed in painting such stencils. As Quang is a terrific figure painter, this would not surprise me seeing he has some techniques relying on oils that would already help somewhat.

 

Regarding the benefit or validity 'to do it oneself' or not, I think that aspect does not really ask for more discussion. Everything was said at that level.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

But you are still ignoring the fact that there are decals doing exactly what you think isn’t possible with a brush. So there clearly is another possibility to obtain the same result or better. By the way, white on black works super well using oil paints... been there, done that. I’m out now as it simply makes no sense for me to argue about someone else’s (very good!) product and I definitely do not want to argue with you, Thierry. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Let me first say this by far has been about the most difficult thing I have ever photographed.  Today is pretty overcast so I had to use some artificial lighting which in turn doesn't always work well with macro lenses due to your distance from the object.  Anyway...

 

This is the 1/32 Tamiya F-16 set.  It does not specify any particular block, but from what I can gather this should work for anything from 25 to 52 prior to the CUPID and CCID updates as well as older ANG C's.  It is also a good approximation of the F-16AM cockpit.  In all reality, unless someone is a diehard F-16 fan or former pilot, the differences are hard to spot.  Mine arrived in a stamped envelope wrapped in several sheets of plain copy paper.  There doesn't appear to be any damage.  There are two small sheets each in a separate bag along with instructions and a small set of diagrams for the cockpit tub and seat.  One sheet is dedicated to the instruments while the other is for the ejection seat and seatbelts.  A nice detail is that each instrument has a gloss coating and the panels represent the aircraft as "off" which some PE companies do not.

 

Before I get into the pictures, it is of note to let everyone know that these are not the peel and stick that others were thinking.  They are indeed waterslide decals; however, in the instructions they mention the use of various types of glues including CA.  I strongly advise against using any CA glue with these as water is the activating agent for any type of CA.  They do mention PVA, Microscale MetalFoi, Tamiya clear, Future, etc which I would recommend as well.  Really anything that is clear and can be thinned with water will work well.  A bit further down they mention to not use any decal setting solutions as it can possibly dissolve or distort the polyvinyl material that composes all the details.

 

Now to the pics...

 

IMG_0012.JPG

 

IMG_0018.JPG

 

IMG_0020.JPG

 

IMG_0021.JPG

 

IMG_0025.JPG

 

IMG_0014.JPG

 

IMG_0016.JPG

 

IMG_0017.JPG

 

My initial impressions are that of optimism.  This isn't a new idea as Eduard has been doing this for quite a number of years.  The only thing new is the method of creation.  Comparing them to the usual PE options, PE has a sharperer edging and flat surfaces, but these "decals" are already assembled, offer some flexibility (which is a plus for the belts), and have more depth (which allows for creating varying heights on switches and varying textures such as the seat padding).  When it comes to just the instrument panel, hands down PE is the winner; however, where this comes in to play is definitely the seat details and side panels with all their various switches and knobs.

 

As an added bonus, I zoomed way in with my microscope to see if I could actually read some of the instruments. 

 

closeup.jpg

 

closeup2.jpg

 

As for the controversy...  if you are comfortable using Eduard Zoom or seatbelt sets, Yahu instruments, HGW seatbelts, etc, then these aren't that much different.  They aren't as simple as "peel and stick" as you have to remove molded in detail and then do some voodoo to combine decaling and gluing.

 

This set will find its way into the F-16AM that I am slowly working on.  Don't get too exited as it is still a long ways off as I have to do a lot of stenciling for the paint scheme before I can start assembly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/11/2020 at 6:10 PM, Starfighter said:

But you are still ignoring the fact that there are decals doing exactly what you think isn’t possible with a brush. So there clearly is another possibility to obtain the same result or better. By the way, white on black works super well using oil paints... been there, done that.  

I think the appeal comes through as being a lot quicker to do where people think they can't do the equivalent in time for brush work.

I guess some people have the skills and some don't or simply can't be bothered?

We live in an instant satisfaction society these days whether we like it or not.

I do agree that detail brush work is very satisfying as part of any project though.  

Old school but good!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for that photographic review. I received this last week, totally love it and takes things to another level, no way I could achieve this result by hand. That said there’s plenty of scope for individual modeling skill to be applied since this is only a part of the cockpit and will need to somehow be weathered to represent the real thing, unless you’re showing the model in a factory fresh state. The displays can also be upgraded imo.


I find the discussion about these products negating modeling skills to be pretty arbitrary.

 

Cheers,

Marcel

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...