red Dog Posted September 6, 2020 Author Share Posted September 6, 2020 my thoughts exactly, A Sci Fi mirage for Star Wars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheetah11 Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 Hi Olivier Great work on the Kfir. I am keen to see this one finished, especially the nice color scheme. I do not think I was very clear on the belly gun bay. The Kfir has the cannon fixed to the air-frame and not to the gun-pack. The cannon can be loaded without removing the belly pylon. The panel lines are different from the Mir III. I don't know if this detail is very important to you but this is what the gun bay should look like. Cheers Nick red Dog, HerculesPA_2 and Piero 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red Dog Posted September 6, 2020 Author Share Posted September 6, 2020 Hey Nick, This is what I used : From a Kfir C2 walkaround: scvrobeson and HerculesPA_2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheetah11 Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 That is exactly right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red Dog Posted September 7, 2020 Author Share Posted September 7, 2020 The air to air refuelling probe has been in the back of my head since planning this build. I have been looking at the stash and being a fan of the scooter, I initially thought I scored with the bent probe of the Skyhawk. Since the Colombian KFIR have been updated with the help of IAI i figured that reusing old proven modification would surely be SOP with these guys. So why not re-use the skyhawk parts? Getting my last skyhawk box (for the future AF-1) I found both the straight and bent probe. Upon checking on the Kfir I realised it was not matching. So the itch was wrong… but then I found this: and that seem pretty close to the Kfir 2000 probe. The tip of the probe will be donated by the skyhawk straight probe which I won't need for my AF-1 (using the bent probe) The rest is scratched with pasticards and metal tubing, based on pictures. The most difficult part to shape is the one connecting into the back of the aircraft. It's made with plasticard 2mm laminated with an extra 1.5mm plasticard, cut and sanded to shape. The tube attached to the fuselage is a hollow round section flattened at its base and clued on a 1mm thicj plasticard section shaped. The fact that it is hollow allows to insert the metal tube which has been cut to length and shaped accordingly. the tip is glued atthe end with a rod inserted into both end to provide better strenght. It sags a bit but that's because it's not glued yet and thus not perfectly aligned. nevertheless happy with the result. What else can I do to delay that anhedral wing issue … Alex, Marcel111, Anthony in NZ and 11 others 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenshb Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 Master make a refuelling probe in turned aluminium in 1:32... https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/MR32030?result-token=25ilJ Interesting conversion and good job on the crisp and clean panel lines. red Dog 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alain11 Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 Hi that looks nice !!! Good tip !!!!! Now you could glue the nose cone, it will be easier to handle the model without the wings.......what do you think about it??? Alain red Dog 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red Dog Posted September 7, 2020 Author Share Posted September 7, 2020 (edited) Thanks Jens, I have this one on order, but for another project here the stash skyhawk tip will do thanks for the comment on the panel lines, you're too kind. I definitely see these are not straight enough actually Alain, I'll do anything now to avoid the wing issue About the nose I'm actually debating hollowing a bit the bottom nose internal, the bottom of the nose is not flush with the fuselage, a step is clearly visible. rather than having just a step I Wonder if a little hole wouldn't be better... Fitting looks great, i can basically place the nose without glue thanks to the recess of the resin I sanded to the nose fuselage hole. But before that I need to make my first molds. I need to replicate two sensors from the isracast nose to the C10 nose... Never did any mold before, so this will be a first Edited September 7, 2020 by red Dog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alain11 Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, red Dog said: But before that I need to make my first molds. I need to replicate two sensors from the isracast nose to the C10 nose... Never did any mold before, so this will be a first hi maybe you should try this stuff for the mold https://la-petite-epicerie.fr/fr/oyumaru/256-pate-oyumaru-bleue-turquoise-3471055001347.html and this one to get the parts ....you will find this stuff to a hardware ( DIY) store , this one , or something similar .... cheap , and easy ..... https://www.amazon.fr/XUDOAI-époxydique-plasticité-remplissage-réparation/dp/B07B68PGDW/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=mastic+epoxy+bi+composant&qid=1599483972&s=hi&sr=1-6 Alain Edited September 7, 2020 by alain11 red Dog 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red Dog Posted September 8, 2020 Author Share Posted September 8, 2020 (edited) And that is exactly what I have done I learned about that technique initially in Chuck's kicked up a notch series - episode T-6 harvard Chuck moved the gear attachment points outboard in the wheel wells and since seeing that and how clever that was I knew one day I would need this product as well. So I immediately went on Amazon and bought a small set of Oyumaru. First occasion to use it is with this KFIR model. I need to add two RWR sensors from the Isracast C2 nose to the Cheetah nose Nick kindly provided. So out goes the Oyumaru. A small piece was cut and immerged into 80°C water for 3 minutes. I malaxed the oyumaru and then pressed it on the Isracast C7 nose on top of the bit needed duplicating. Let it cool down until it became hard again and removed gently the oyumaru from the resin nose. All good this far. Best candidate to pour material in there was the ZAP epoxy resin I usually use for strong bonds for my in fight builds. Poured equal part of the two and filled the mould. No particular care was taken except to ensure the liquid went to the bottom of the mold. I wasn't too cautious about air bubbles or anything treating this more like an experiment and honestly I didn't expect the first try to be successful. I let it dry for about 18 hours and to my surprise the part came out easily from the mould with a more than decent shape for a first try. The base of the part is messy and sanding will be required, to flatten the part. I must say I am very surprised at how easy this was to do... I did another pour for the other's side sensor and result was as good as the first one, ruling out the luck of the newbee. Both sensors where then attached to the resin long nose. Some final adjustments needed, but another step closer to the painting ... So Chuck if you read this: thank you for a great tip and thanks Alain for suggesting the same. This is why I feel this place is so great. Thank you Edited September 8, 2020 by red Dog LSP_Kevin, blackbetty, Piero and 12 others 15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcel111 Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 Nice work and very inventive! red Dog 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Youngtiger1 Posted September 10, 2020 Share Posted September 10, 2020 Brother Red Dog, nice subject choice. I too have the Kfir conversation but no mirage kit. So, I’ll be following along to your work and see who this turns out. Mike red Dog 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red Dog Posted September 10, 2020 Author Share Posted September 10, 2020 Hey Mike, long time no see, glad to see you here. Get a cheap mirage kit and get that conversion going, that Kfir offers so many possibilities between the IAF C2 or C7, the latin americans or even the ATAC birds. I'm realising I can't get only one And I have been thinking about what I'm doing for decades Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbetty Posted September 10, 2020 Share Posted September 10, 2020 can you still get the resin set? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red Dog Posted September 10, 2020 Author Share Posted September 10, 2020 I doubt it blackbetty. At least not from Isracast. When I bought mine years ago there was only a few set left and no gear leg casting anyway. I accepted to get one with no gear legs I guess some might pop on the second hand market or you may consider waiting till ScaleWorx resin comes up with a standard KFIR conversion for the more modern Italeri Mirage III kit. I'll certainly buy another one (this time an IAF - promise) when that happens Renegade 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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