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Filler for seams between resin and plastic?


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I understand that lacquer based fillers like Squadron Green and White are not good to use with resin parts. What type of fillers are good for seams between plastic and resin? Does mixing talc with super glue make it easier to sand and feather? I know these are basic questions but it's something I have never done.

 

Thanks, Al

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Paul Budzik on his great Scale Model Workshop youtube channel will be of great help. He uses CA and acrylic dental powder.

 

Personally my go to CA filler is Krylex KB1641 I have been using CA glue for many years this stuff is great it's a gap filler but it sands so well.

 

Chemence is the manufacturer so I think they sell in the US as well

 

Bob

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22 minutes ago, Rob Owens said:

But talc & super glue (CA) is much cheaper, though talcum powder products are disappearing from US retailers due to links to ovarian cancer.  Mix roughly 50/50 by mass w/ medium viscosity CA.

It looks like pure talc is pretty hard to get these days. I tried Walgreen's and they only have talc free products. The powder bags that baseball players use when they are up for bat may have talc but it's probably not used there any more either. I have also read that microballs used in flying model airplanes might be good. I'll go to the hobby shop tomorrow and see if they have any and give it a try.

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Talc should be fairly easy to get if you have a moulding and casting supplier (art castings, resins and plasters) they should have French Chalk (talc) I use it as a lubricant when casting white metal. Last bag I got was about £7.00 for 2.5 kgs.

 

I could bag some up but the postage across the pond would make it a bit pricey, also bags of white powder could get in trouble with "Mablethorpe Vice"

 

If you look for "French Chalk" in the art casting materials or the micro balloons boat builders resin suppliers the best trade name id " Q-cell"

 

Bob

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47 minutes ago, Bob MDC said:

Talc should be fairly easy to get if you have a moulding and casting supplier (art castings, resins and plasters) they should have French Chalk (talc) I use it as a lubricant when casting white metal. Last bag I got was about £7.00 for 2.5 kgs.

 

I could bag some up but the postage across the pond would make it a bit pricey, also bags of white powder could get in trouble with "Mablethorpe Vice"

 

If you look for "French Chalk" in the art casting materials or the micro balloons boat builders resin suppliers the best trade name id " Q-cell"

 

Bob

Thanks Bob, I picked up the Microballoons today and tried it with the CA I have and it set up too quick to do anything with. I don't have any super slow stuff so it's back to the hobby store tomorrow. Maybe I just used to much microballoons. I'll play with it more tomorrow. I do have an art supply store near the hobby shop so I drop in there too and see if they have the talc.

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1 hour ago, AlbertD said:

Thanks Bob, I picked up the Microballoons today and tried it with the CA I have and it set up too quick to do anything with. I don't have any super slow stuff so it's back to the hobby store tomorrow. Maybe I just used to much microballoons. I'll play with it more tomorrow. I do have an art supply store near the hobby shop so I drop in there too and see if they have the talc.

 

 

The thinner the CA, the faster the reaction. Ive actually use MB with super thin CA, and it has gone "POOF" with a (literal) cloud of activation fumes as it instantly hardened off. The gel or super slow set CA is the way.

 

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On 8/11/2020 at 8:59 AM, AlbertD said:

I understand that lacquer based fillers like Squadron Green and White are not good to use with resin parts.

 

Getting back to the original question, I've not actually heard that comment before - not that I ever use those fillers. The closest I have is some old Tamiya putty that I haven't used in years, but don't imagine why it would pose any threat to resin.

 

To the CA question, I mix it with talc, from an old bottle I've had for years. The aim is to form a paste with a honey-like consistency (though grittier), and to that end, it shouldn't really matter what kind of CA you start with. Personally, I prefer to mix the talc with gel CA, as it gives the most control over the mix, and is the shortest path to the consistency we're after. But, it is more difficult to get the two ingredients to mix thoroughly.

 

With all that said, for what you're asking here, I'd probably just go with an epoxy putty like Milliput, Apoxie Sculpt, etc - even Tamiya makes some. You can usually shape and smooth them into place with a moistened finger, which helps enormously to reduce the subsequent sanding.

 

Kev

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When I started MDC many moons ago Squadron Green Stuff, Humbrol and Miliputt were the only game in town. I was interested  in the best filler for resin Green Stuff was ahead by a country mile but the PC brigade started banned the solvents like toluene (which is understandable) which altered the nature of the beast.

 

"Enter the Dragon"

On a trip to the Nuremberg  Toy Fair I found Mr Surfacer and to quote a very well respected magazine author " Mr Surfacer changed my life" I became UK distributor GSI Creos and used the full range of their  products.

 

Now (allegedly in semi retirement ) and building for pleasure I am playing about with fillers and "stuff"

 

Epoxy based filler and lacquer thinner great smooth down to zero great so and trying stuff from other disciplines which is fun.

 

So far the Krylex super glues are getting top marks, I have just bought some Apoxie Clay (still in the wrapper)

But my go to for epoxy fillers is Mr Pro-H and Mr Pro-L they are GSI Creos products (banned in Europe) but available in Asia  like all epoxies a pain to use but the finished product

is great.

 

Will try and keep you up to date with my findings.

 

Bob 

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I found a good sustitute material for dental powder, talc or micro-balloons: nail acrylic powder. It is incredibly fine and can be easily sanded when mixed with CA glue. I purchased the cheapest white one from Amazon. The big advantage is the availability. However, note that if not very expensive, the product is not cheap either. However, typically, you only use small amounts as, for large gaps, I prefer relying on plastic strips.

 

 

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The "powder puffing" thing with CA and powder is a pain, also CA has a liking of moisture so watch the fumes that can happen "they like eyelids:help: " if you breath on a CA joint it decreases the time to fix, but too much CA can fume (all the crime dramas have CA tents to get fingerprints from "anything") if you have CA fuming with an accelerant it can be a problem.

I have used the Supa-fix system the glues are good the powders are not so reactive as micro-balloons but a bit rough to sand.

 

Bob

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