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RAF FG.1 XV571 WILD HARE Phantom Conversion


Anthony in NZ

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Not sure if this info from Ron Downey's blog will be any help Anthony, but you can never have too much data, right?

 

.Also, I can recommend Ali McLean's clear resin canopy set, which neatly avoids the seam clean-up and edge refraction problems of the way Tamiya designed the frames and transparencies with the need to glue them together.

Edited by Chek
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On 5/13/2021 at 5:31 AM, Scotsman said:

You've captured the extra bulk of the Brit Phantom beautifully , keep up the wonderful work!

Thanks for that, glad it is noticeable.  I have looked at it so much I cant tell anymore LOL

 

18 hours ago, amurray said:

One's eyes are just naturally drawn to those intake vents.  They dominate the upper fuselage.  Really outstanding the effect they have!  Well worth the effort!

Thanks, that's good...they were a LOT of work, I thought they were going to finish me off in the end!

 

6 hours ago, Chek said:

Not sure if this info from Ron Downey's blog will be any help Anthony, but you can never have too much data, right?

 

.Also, I can recommend Ali McLean's clear resin canopy set, which neatly avoids the seam clean-up and edge refraction problems of the way Tamiya designed the frames and transparencies with the need to glue them together.

That's awesome Chek!  Thank you....never too much information when you end up this deep in!

 

Well more sanding

E7QeF8.jpg

 

Another coat of Mr Surfacer.  See as I start fine tuning the shapes the ;hump' starts to become visible?

tYC40q.jpg

 

pme7Fi.jpg

 

This has turned out a little more of a challenge than I first thought, but I am getting there.  A bit more fine tuning and I might have it. One more sanding session 'might' have it.  

 

Black Mike is a great study in shapes and I am constantly referring to photos of her

pvP672.jpg

 

Thanks guys and I always love your input and suggestions

 

Cheers Anthony

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12 hours ago, Anthony in NZ said:

Thanks for that, glad it is noticeable.  I have looked at it so much I cant tell anymore LOL

 

It will if you put next to a stock F-4J kit! :)

 

12 hours ago, Anthony in NZ said:

Black Mike is a great study in shapes and I am constantly referring to photos of her

 

The advantage of 'Black Mike' is exactly that - you can see the airframe contours very easily because of the gloss black paint!

 

Good work so far Anthony; it's looking great! :) :thumbsup: :goodjob:

 

Derek

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12 hours ago, Derek B said:

It will if you put next to a stock F-4J kit! :)

I suppose you are right...:D

 

Thanks very much for your feedback Derek, it means a lot to have your approval on progress!  Yes love the fact Black Mike survived the scrapper and is painted the way she is!

 

Nothing much to report right now as I am working on the other side to get them as close as possible, then I will use contour gauges and templates to fine tune and match both sides up before back to restoring all the surface detail...again in some places LOL

 

Cheers

Anthony

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On 5/15/2021 at 9:06 AM, Derek B said:

That is pretty much the way I do my master patterns :)

 

Your progression is fantastic - you are really a great deal further on than it feels; keep up your amazing efforts.

 

Cheers

 

Derek

Thank you Sir, I love having your feedback!

 

Well, pretty much finished the top halves of the intakes now.  I went to use my contour gauge to start matching up both sides and cannot find it :confused:  So I ordered a new one off ebay.  I got notification saying delivery eta 22 June! Ugh.   

 

Not a lot to see, but hopefully tonight I might finish putting a slight curve in my sides.  Always stressful pouring boiling water on the resin section of this kit!!!

vxIdi7.jpg

 

auTXJz.jpg

 

c9Z15p.jpg

 

Because of the primer you cant really see the new shapes, I will try and take some with the sunlihjt or something on them, I am pretty happy where they are at now.  I just need to make sure I have both sides matching and then re-install all the surface detail

 

As always, thanks for tuning in

Anthony

 

 

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1 hour ago, Anthony in NZ said:

I just need to make sure I have both sides matching and then re-install all the surface detail

 

I just use some plastic card and file it until it matches the the required contour shape to use as a cross section shape template (or sections shapes, if you need more than one) on the good side - preferably at some convenient panel line. Once I am satisfied that it matches the cross section template shape perfectly, I simply reverse it and file/sand the opposite side of the model to match the plastic card contour (you'd probably have it done well before the new contour gauge arrives - it is actually more accurate, as there are no little 'steps' to join up in order to determine the shape, which you have to do with most contour gauges!).

 

Cheers

 

Derek

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1 hour ago, monthebiff said:

As you've ordered a new contour gauge the old one will definitely be showing up soon, .out properly the day after your new one arrives:rolleyes:

 

Regards. Andy 

LOL, I think you're right Andy...always the way!

 

55 minutes ago, Derek B said:

 

I just use some plastic card and file it until it matches the the required contour shape to use as a cross section shape template (or sections shapes, if you need more than one) on the good side - preferably at some convenient panel line. Once I am satisfied that it matches the cross section template shape perfectly, I simply reverse it and file/sand the opposite side of the model to match the plastic card contour (you'd probably have it done well before the new contour gauge arrives - it is actually more accurate, as there are no little 'steps' to join up in order to determine the shape, which you have to do with most contour gauges!).

 

Cheers

 

Derek

Yep, I couldn't wait and that's precisely what I have just spent the last hour or so doing. I just had to keep my momentum going so it dosent end up on the SOD!  I thought I had both sides close but I really didnt!  I guess its only microns I am sanding down to now, not 2mm chunks.  Thanks for the reassurance on accuracy, it makes sense too.

 

You're not just a pretty face are you?

 

Cheers guys

Anthony

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Great work Anthony, looking at the conversion, this is arguably the most difficult part.

 

Have you seen this, the fuselage doesn't seem to flare out so much where it meets the intake parts. Pity accurate drawings are so hard to access.

 

Just looking at the Jumpei Temma drawings, and the intakes are raised in the fuselage mid-section on the FG.1/FGR.2, resulting in the hump, but looking at the way Frank made the conversion, it seems he only widened them, hmmm...

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On 5/19/2021 at 9:23 PM, Kagemusha said:

Great work Anthony, looking at the conversion, this is arguably the most difficult part.

 

Have you seen this, the fuselage doesn't seem to flare out so much where it meets the intake parts. Pity accurate drawings are so hard to access.

 

Just looking at the Jumpei Temma drawings, and the intakes are raised in the fuselage mid-section on the FG.1/FGR.2, resulting in the hump, but looking at the way Frank made the conversion, it seems he only widened them, hmmm...

Thanks Andy!

Yes this is turning out to be quite the challenge at the moment around these intakes.  I have used templates to get the top halves of the shapes correct.  But even though the back end was heated and rounded off (the benefit of having the resin fuselage mid section) and the new intakes fitted, it became obvious the fuselage sides in the mid section needed a gentle curve on them too.  They just looked too slab sided.  I have just spent about 4-5 hours and have sorted the left side of the fuselage out now....phew!  Looks a mess but pretty satisfied I have FINALLY got the shapes sorted.  I could have saves myself a lot of work by doing this to the fuselage before starting!  

 

That link is Franks first attempt I think, and he freely admits to it only being close.  That kit got torn down, corrected and then used as the basis for the Wild Hare Assn conversion.  Frank then builds the conversion in the grey scheme for himself. 

 

Unfortunately if you want to be pedantic like me then there was still a lot to do even with the conversion.  Leading me to the conclusion that you might as well just start again with a Tamiya 'J' as there is so much left over from the conversion I wont be using.  

 

Dont get me wrong, I think Frank is a hero for doing what he did initially.  He helped us all realize that if you really want one then you can convert a Tamiya kit and have quite a respectable result.  In fact, there are so many subtle changes that even Hasegawa missed the 'hump' effect in their 48th scale Brit Phantoms. From what I can tell the new Airfix 1/72 kits are the most accurate on the market for an FG.1 or FGR.2 in any scale, they capture the intake and fuselage shape beautifully.  Probably because I heard they Lidar scanned a real one.

 

Oh dear what a load of rambling..... in short, yes you are correct, Frank widened them(too much) but didnt fix any other shape issues like the height of the intake opening, and the 'hump'

 

Once I have got this fuselage sorted then I will work on the 'tweaked' vari-ramps and see if they are good to go for the final printing with the rear of the engines.

 

Cheers mate and I hope this helps you for when you get to do yours.  

Anthony

 

 

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Indeed, those few inches make a huge difference!

 

gQ8eZs0.jpg

 

Frank certainly helped lead the way for the rest of us!

 

Great work on those intakes and fuselage structure Anthony (the absolute real pay-off, of course, will be when the model is completed and is posed in a manner which matches a photograph of the actual aircraft and no one can tell the difference between the two!).

 

Derek

 

Edited by Derek B
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