Anthony in NZ Posted August 11, 2020 Author Share Posted August 11, 2020 (edited) As I said, this would be a bit of a warts n all build, so excuse I haven't sanded, primed and made it all look pretty, but the point of this is to help those with the conversion or doing their own conversion. Something wasn't right with the lower edge position of the Aux intake door and the panel's forward of it didn't seem the correct proportions. So I measured and scaled off pics (I needn't have made it so complicated) the panel line positions. Basically this panel line is at the wrong angle on the Tamiya kit (at the point the red line starts). What this does is make this line travel too steep down the fuselage and making the Aux Air door too low and the 2 square panels mid way too square and not rectangular as they should be. And without the red lines so you can see what I mean So I shimmed the lower edge to the door to make everything line up properly. And those 2 square panels in the middle will have their heights raised to line up too. Hope this helps those who are interested Cheers Anthony Edited August 11, 2020 by Anthony in NZ Greg W, Kais, Landrotten Highlander and 9 others 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted August 11, 2020 Share Posted August 11, 2020 11 hours ago, Barry said: The color is really just dirty white,usually a grayish or yellowish color. You might even find some scuff marks form their boots along the lower surfaces. Our crew chiefs wiped their intakes down, usually using the same slightly dirty, oily rag they carried around just for wiping down their jet. Barry Hi Barry Exactly, you can clearly see that in the photographs Cheers Derek Anthony in NZ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted August 11, 2020 Share Posted August 11, 2020 This might help Anthony... Kagemusha, scvrobeson, Greg W and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighter Posted August 11, 2020 Share Posted August 11, 2020 Can't wait to see this one come together, Anthony! Derek B and Anthony in NZ 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted August 11, 2020 Share Posted August 11, 2020 Great work Anthony, And thanks for correctly positioning the aux. intake doors. In the meantime I have ripped apart my intake conversion as I felt the intakes ( modelled on Frank Mitchell’s build) were too wide and gave it a comical look. The intakes are widened again but by about 3mm which looks better compared to photo’s. Unfortunately the intake ramp parts were effectively destroyed and I will have to take my words back and will use FOD-covers. Although this will speed up the work and I can concentrate on the rear fuselage. Oh well. Cheers Cees Derek B and Anthony in NZ 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony in NZ Posted August 11, 2020 Author Share Posted August 11, 2020 7 hours ago, Derek B said: This might help Anthony... Derek, that's brilliant mate...thank you! I have just measured up the conversion parts and the doors are in the correct place. With my shim at the bottom edge I now also have the correct 'A' measurement. This confirms what the photos said. Thank you sir! What we DO need is someone to produce a range of these hinge decals, they are just too tricky to scribe and do a nice job. They are such a common feature of airframes. We need to petition to someone to do a range of hinge types and sizes..... Fundekals????? 6 hours ago, Starfighter said: Can't wait to see this one come together, Anthony! Thanks Ben, I am really enjoying something a bit different to my usual. 3 hours ago, Cees Broere said: Great work Anthony, And thanks for correctly positioning the aux. intake doors. In the meantime I have ripped apart my intake conversion as I felt the intakes ( modelled on Frank Mitchell’s build) were too wide and gave it a comical look. The intakes are widened again but by about 3mm which looks better compared to photo’s. Unfortunately the intake ramp parts were effectively destroyed and I will have to take my words back and will use FOD-covers. Although this will speed up the work and I can concentrate on the rear fuselage. Oh well. Cheers Cees Good call Cees, those intakes are just too wide. I am thinking of maybe getting the GT intakes and widening them. This might be a good option. Someone out there might have splitter plates? They are different anyway, I might make new ones, maybe I could get them cast? I am thinking of a new etch section with the perforated holes...stay tuned Cheers guys Anthony Starfighter, Greg W, Derek B and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenshb Posted August 11, 2020 Share Posted August 11, 2020 Hinge decals? You could draw them up and print them on a laser printer onto clear decal film - make sure the decal paper is suitable for laser printers or photocopiers first though. Another method is to make a 3D model - say a block 2 mm wide and the appropriate length and 0.5 - 1.0 mm thick and then create a recess with the right shape. Essentially, creating a blank with a scribed piano hinge, and have it 3D printed. Starfighter and Anthony in NZ 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighter Posted August 12, 2020 Share Posted August 12, 2020 10 hours ago, jenshb said: Hinge decals? You could draw them up and print them on a laser printer onto clear decal film - make sure the decal paper is suitable for laser printers or photocopiers first though. Another method is to make a 3D model - say a block 2 mm wide and the appropriate length and 0.5 - 1.0 mm thick and then create a recess with the right shape. Essentially, creating a blank with a scribed piano hinge, and have it 3D printed. The second option certainly is the better choice. I think that's the way I'd go. Anthony in NZ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony in NZ Posted August 12, 2020 Author Share Posted August 12, 2020 13 hours ago, jenshb said: Hinge decals? You could draw them up and print them on a laser printer onto clear decal film - make sure the decal paper is suitable for laser printers or photocopiers first though. Another method is to make a 3D model - say a block 2 mm wide and the appropriate length and 0.5 - 1.0 mm thick and then create a recess with the right shape. Essentially, creating a blank with a scribed piano hinge, and have it 3D printed. Hmmm, decals might be easier for me, I "Think" I know what you mean 3 hours ago, Starfighter said: The second option certainly is the better choice. I think that's the way I'd go. Yeah.....you are probably correct, but I wouldn't know where to start, I just don't have the skills for that. Might a decal look tidier?? I will have to think about that. Thanks for the suggestions, really appreciated, it helps me think outside the box! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony in NZ Posted August 12, 2020 Author Share Posted August 12, 2020 Now....this could be a great idea....or a really stupid one. Dont suppose anyone has a spare part J25 do they? It is the insert for the refueling probe... Derek B, Kagemusha, LSP_Kevin and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vvwse4 Posted August 12, 2020 Share Posted August 12, 2020 2 hours ago, Anthony in NZ said: Now....this could be a great idea....or a really stupid one. Dont suppose anyone has a spare part J25 do they? It is the insert for the refueling probe... I think it is a great idea. I cutted up that part but you can close the door? When I placed the cockpit in the plane the insert was far too deep, maybe scratch one? Rick Anthony in NZ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony in NZ Posted August 12, 2020 Author Share Posted August 12, 2020 7 hours ago, vvwse4 said: I think it is a great idea. I cutted up that part but you can close the door? When I placed the cockpit in the plane the insert was far too deep, maybe scratch one? Rick Oh I didn't realize that part interfered with the cockpit tub....Hmmmm Thanks Rick, I think so too It will solve a couple of issues for me 1. Brittleness of the existing resin for the rescribing of the nose section (lots of panel changes) 2. The vanes that go between the sidewall and the vari-ramp/splitter plate wont need adding 3. Remaking the intakes using plastic on plastic will be easier 4. The WH edges are a little crumbled around the nose sections, so if I use most of the kit lower wing I can get a nice join. Besides these 2 parts are identical, I think if I can get a nice join between the cockpit and rear fuse I will be in a better place moving forward Greg W, AlbertD and Kagemusha 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony in NZ Posted August 13, 2020 Author Share Posted August 13, 2020 OK, well I took a razor saw to the WH fuse....love the result! Tiny bit of cleanup of of the panel lines and all should be good. What do you think? Because this was so successful I will insert the appropriate belly section into the Tamiya lower wing. Patience with a big file paid off, just taking my time working up to each edge of a panel line, saves too much cleanup later on. Thanks for looking in on this butchery Cheers Anthony Tony T, Paulpk, Scotsman and 13 others 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumpjack Posted August 13, 2020 Share Posted August 13, 2020 FWIW, I did some very similar butchery to my Revell 1/48 FGR to eliminate the fuselage/wing joint issues. Anthony in NZ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooky56 Posted August 13, 2020 Share Posted August 13, 2020 Ant, from your photos I'm leaning more towards surgery than butchery for that effort, a gutsy move Rick Anthony in NZ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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