1/32 Fly Hurricane windshield

[Pete Roberts]

Looking at joining the Battle of Britain GB with a 1/32 Fly Hurricane Mk I but I am a bit put off by the windscreen armour plate being a separate part.

 

Does anyone have any suggestions for getting a clean join to the windscreen? Or is there another option?

 

 

[robertmro]

I recommend UVGlue https://www.amazon.com/Riverruns-Formula-Building-Special-Introductory/dp/B01N4N8OIZ/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?crid=4CVDA2296QNE&dchild=1&keywords=uv+glue+kit+with+light&qid=1595899283&sprefix=uv+glue%2Caps%2C236&sr=8-4-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzUFBVQURCNzlOREhIJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTgzMDIyMUlIOU9LRUZISkI4ViZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTI3OTc0MTE0Wk5TSTYzVjI0TiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

[Pete Roberts]

Thank you for the lead.

 

Mixed reviews though which leave me a bit wary.

 

I haven't used UV setting glue before; one to consider.

[robertmro]

The nice thing about it is, it doesn't set until you apply the uv light and you can clean it off with alcohol before you cure it. It's also crystal clear.

[LSP_Ray]

2 hours ago, robertmro said:

The nice thing about it is, it doesn't set until you apply the uv light and you can clean it off with alcohol before you cure it. It's also crystal clear.

+ 1

[dodgem37]

Future or anther clear liquid acrylic.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

[MikeMaben]

Agree with Mark, I'd go with Future. If you're not happy with something

you can soak it in 91% alcohol and start over.  Unless it's painted with an

acrylic already..

[Pete Roberts]

Thanks guys. I was considering future but was concerned that a goodly amount would be needed to get a consistent bond across the screen and was worried about the excess. Hadn't thought to clean it off. Um, der! Brain was in neutral there.

 

I have also used ammonia with good results when it comes to removing Future.

 

I have ordered some UV cement, so I will give both a trial.

 

Thank you for the guidance guys.  

Edited July 28, 2020 by Pete Roberts

[dennismcc]

The Hobbyboss Spitfire V have separate armoured glass and I worried about getting a clean join and was advised to use Micro Kristal Klear which worked a treat, though it frightened me to death at first as it was initially cloudy, but when dry it cleared, this took a couple of days if I remember correctly..

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[Pete Roberts]

Thanks Dennis - another option. Did you have excess to clean up? If so , how did you do that?

 

TIA

[Phantom2]

Hi!

 

I use Gator Glue that dries crystal Clear.

 

 

Cheers! 

 

Stefan  

[dennismcc]

4 hours ago, Pete Roberts said:

Thanks Dennis - another option. Did you have excess to clean up? If so , how did you do that?

 

TIA

The glue is water based so clean up is easy,  any PVA type glue should work, here is the relevant part from my build.

 

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[thierry laurent]

I've used efficiently the three options to glue clear parts and would rather recommend Future in that specific case as it is the product with the lower viscosity. 

[Pete Roberts]

Thank you gentlemen, most appreciated.

 

It looks like I have some experimenting to do to see which one I am most confident with.  

[GrahamF]

I spent thirty years as a professional model maker and our material of choice is clear perspex, we made everything out of it, I still do. They were all buildings with walls and glazing and had to be pin sharp with no glue marks at all for presentation and exhibition.

The 'glue' we use is Dichloromethane/ Trichloromethane a solvent and the beauty of it is with capillery action it runs along the two mating surfaces and then gases off and disappears everywhere else it's as thin as water.

If you wandered into any professional model workshop you will find them doing exactly the same thing all over the world and have done for decades, how do you think those perspex cockpit canopies on real aircraft were glued together? they actually went a stage further and melted shavings of perspex into the solvent to thicken it up for bigger joints. [ that's a bit nasty though fume wise]

This solvent I now obtain from Squires and I believe you can get it in some hardware shops as a floor polish stripper. 

IMG_7239 by uniquenarrowgauge, on Flickr

 

The small bottle on the right is the commercially available 'modelshop' product.

IMG_7242 by uniquenarrowgauge, on Flickr

 

So here I'm gluing two thin sheets of 0.8mm think perspex end on.

 

IMG_7245 by uniquenarrowgauge, on Flickr

 

This is the typical sort of brush to load a drop of the solvent on a tear drops worth literally.

IMG_7243 by uniquenarrowgauge, on Flickr

 

So seconds later no mess and glued together.

If you spray clear acrylic car paint lacquer on the back of an etching you can use this technique to glue the frame to clear parts, that's how we glued etched window frames [ that have also been sprayed a colour onto clear perspex, say for a shop front or windows.

 

Graham