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Kitty Hawk OS2U Kingfisher - S.O.D. resurrection


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I painted the wings and insignia, but when sealing them with MRP gloss they frosted like hell. No idea what happened. But that’s okay, I have stripped the paint (went off quickly using ethanol) after this pic and started over. Just glad this happened before I glued them to the fuselage. Looked nice.....shame B)

 

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Not much time during the holidays (have been in the kitchen three days, my other hobby). Today I closed the boarding ladder hatches with stock styrene, they are only open when a ladder is attached.

 

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@Tolga ULGUR got my attention to this product in his wonderful Spitfire Mk.1 build which showed very very nice demarcation lines on his cammo (I used it on the wings in the top photo for the first time). I can attest this is really great stuff. Cheap, Easy to shape, leaves no residue whatsoever, and makes for nice transitions in conjunction with paper masks, very tacky to both styrene and paper. Thanks for the tip!

 

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Did a bit of work at (what I think is) a camera mounted below the cockpit.

 

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The kit part is on the right and not very representative shape-wise to the real part, my crude fabrication on the left. I think it looks better, we’ll see after some more sanding and paint. You can see the hole drilled for the power / actuator cable (if that). Still getting the hang of this sort of thing.

 

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16 hours ago, Out2gtcha said:

Great work!

Sad about the gloss.......was it humid when you shot it?

 

Sometimes high humidity can cause "blooming" in clears like that

 

No, not at all. I did thin the paint with MRP’s own thinner for the first time, to achieve an even smoother coat than straight from the bottle. I did not repeat on the repaint I did. We will see how it reacts to MRP’s Sloan coat this time.

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FAA Kingfishers didn’t have the sight mounted on the nose, and the associated hole I the windscreen. Until now I wanted to accept this inaccuracy because cutting a perfectly clear canopy seemed too daunting to me. I also thought about a method for filling the hole in de windscreen but still it seemed too risky to tackle. Now, on second thought, I realized I will never gain experience in this field if I don’t try. So let’s just do it.

 

The least daunting to me was removing the windscreen. Drilling all round and then cutting and sanding. The plastic is of course very brittle, so I took care. This worked out well even when the lower front frame broke in the middle. Easy fix. Lower in the photo you can see the replacement screen, cut out from acetate sheet that came from a blister pack of something. I dipped it in future to enhance clarity.

 

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I carefully sanded the windscreen a little at a time, constantly test-fitting until I achieved an acceptable fit.

 

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To permanently attach it I will use this product from VMS. I use their various superglues to satisfaction and ordered it on a whim after seeing their YouTube plug about it.

 

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Fingers s crossed.....

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Very cool, and quite daring on such a fragile and visible part!

I usually fix clear parts with either Revell Aqua clear gloss (thick, slightly less clear) or Tamiya X-22 gloss. Unless you pull really, really hard (damaging the part anyway) they are really stuck.

I also use that for armoured glass, PE/Acetate WWI windscreens, etc.

 

 

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Posted (edited)

The base coat and airbrushed main markings are on. Had a blast masking, removing, and remasking to get things done, especially the type C1 fuselage roundels, but they sure are nice this way. Colors used were MRP marking yellow, red, and blue. I think they are a very good match, much more so than the kit decals but that is not surprising.

 

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Edited by Grunticus
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