ade rowlands Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 (edited) Well having always looked at the kit from afar and pondering on getting one for so long that they went out of production I finally got around to getting the newer MTO boxing. So, not actually knowing much about the aircraft or the kit to be honest, is there anything I need to know? And what needs replacing at a minimum? I am not sure what scheme I am going with and there doesn’t seem to be much out there at the moment anyway. Do the profimodeller etch sets add that much to the kit or is out of the box ok? I’ll also be looking out for a decent reference book on the subject if anyone can recommend one. Edited June 26, 2020 by ade rowlands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 Hi, I would recommend at least the AIMS sets for the engines and Master metal machine gun barrels as a minimum. For the interior, I recommend to focus on the cockpit. I got many other Eduard and Profi sets to realize later they were simply going to be invisible! A more detailed Norden is also an interesting option as it will stay quite visible. Besides that, as for the B-17, only the sky is the limit as tons of aftermarket sets were released for the bomb bay, wheels, rear stations, etc, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juggernut Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 The B-25 needs Harold's (AMS) replacement props and reduction gearcase set...badly. Engines have four sets of pushrods (housings) instead of just two. Easy fix though, just cut off the offending sets of pushrods. Those are the two most egregious errors I can remember. You'll probably want to replace the wheels/tires as well. I remember the True Details offerings were head-and-shoulders above the kit offerings. You may also want Master Details metal gun barrels for the 50's. I have no information regarding the Profilmodeller set(s). I've never used them. Depending on the detail level you want, there's Eduard PE sets for the kit. If you're only ever going to build one B-25J, you might stick with the less expensive Squadron/Signal references on the B-25. I have a few B-25 references including Warpath Across the Pacific and the Schiffer Publishing: B-25 Mitchell, The Ultimate Look. The former I think it out of print and is exclusively about the Air Apaches in the Pacific; the latter is a detailed dissection of the B-25 and is quite a hefty book. I'm not sure whether this book is still in print or not. There are undoubtedly several others, some better than others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ade rowlands Posted June 26, 2020 Author Share Posted June 26, 2020 Just now, thierry laurent said: Hi, I would recommend at leathe AIMS sets for the engines and new machine gun barrels as a minimum. For the interior, I recommend to focus on the cockpit. I got many Eduard and Profi sets to realize later they were simply going to be invisible! A more detailed Norden is also a possibility. Besides that, as for the B-17, only the Sky is the limiot as tons of aftermarket sets were released. So the profi set for the rear gun position would be a waste of time? Won’t bother with that then. At the moment in my Hannants basket I have the Brass gun barrels, Yahu panel, Eduard Brassin wheels. I may try and track down the G-factor gear set but I’ve also asked Damian if he plans to work his magic in the B-25 gear. I’m leaning towards one of the Dutch Decal sheets. I do recall someone doing a 3D printed Norden in 1/32 a while back too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ade rowlands Posted June 26, 2020 Author Share Posted June 26, 2020 2 minutes ago, Juggernut said: The B-25 needs Harold's (AMS) replacement props and reduction gearcase set...badly. Engines have four sets of pushrods (housings) instead of just two. Easy fix though, just cut off the offending sets of pushrods. Those are the two most egregious errors I can remember. You'll probably want to replace the wheels/tires as well. I remember the True Details offerings were head-and-shoulders above the kit offerings. You may also want Master Details metal gun barrels for the 50's. I have no information regarding the Profilmodeller set(s). I've never used them. Depending on the detail level you want, there's Eduard PE sets for the kit. If you're only ever going to build one B-25J, you might stick with the less expensive Squadron/Signal references on the B-25. I have a few B-25 references including Warpath Across the Pacific and the Schiffer Publishing: B-25 Mitchell, The Ultimate Look. The former I think it out of print and is exclusively about the Air Apaches in the Pacific; the latter is a detailed dissection of the B-25 and is quite a hefty book. I'm not sure whether this book is still in print or not. There are undoubtedly several others, some better than others. Thanks. Yep, this will be the one and only B-25 I do due to its size. Does it come with the wall mount like the B-17? For a book I’d just like something that is a basic walk around so the Squadron book should suffice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 The rear position details are just barely visible and the fuselage stations are totally invisible. Greymatter also made a simple set correcting the canvas for the rear machine guns. There are two Nordens, one from Master in the US and another one, built from CAD and 3D print. I think Spruebrothers have or had the latter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juggernut Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 (edited) 10 minutes ago, ade rowlands said: Thanks. Yep, this will be the one and only B-25 I do due to its size. Does it come with the wall mount like the B-17? For a book I’d just like something that is a basic walk around so the Squadron book should suffice. I don't think it does come with a wall mount. I've owned two B-25's (strafer J and the H) and never had a look inside either which is why I say I don't think it does...I may be wrong on that. I believe the wall mount gizmo came about with the B-17G kit. If you're not interested in buying a replacement Norden and if your airplane will not be crewed, you can always omit the bombsight as it was removed from the aircraft between missions. To another extent, If B-25 operations were anything like B-17 operations, then only lead and deputy lead aircraft would carry the bombsight; the rest dropped with the lead aircraft (or smoke markers). Again, I'm not familiar with B-25 operations so I just don't know. Edited June 26, 2020 by Juggernut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Confusionreigns178 Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 Hello. I have the solid-nose/strafer version of this kit. I guess it much the same as any kit you can upgrade.... just how far do you want to go? There are probably 50 different aftermarket sets for the B-25, some are just about essential and others are nice "luxury-items". One thing I would say - if you want to upgrade the 50 Cal. barrels, it's WAY cheaper to go for resin ones (Aires, IIRC) than the metal sets. The Master sets are exquisite, but boy are they expensive! I'm a firm believer that once you slap some paint on, the quality differences between various types of media tend to evaporate somewhat. Hope this helps. Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 6 minutes ago, Confusionreigns178 said: One thing I would say - if you want to upgrade the 50 Cal. barrels, it's WAY cheaper to go for resin ones (Aires, IIRC) than the metal sets. The Master sets are exquisite, but boy are they expensive! I'm a firm believer that once you slap some paint on, the quality differences between various types of media tend to evaporate somewhat. Hope this helps. Chris. Hi Chris, This is only correct if you paint them! Personally I prefer using a metal burnishing fluid. This change the brass metal color to a kind of gun metal hue. To me, this gives a better finish than any paint as this looks like Parkerized metal. Juggernut and Granger Davis 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juggernut Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 Which is why some of us who use metal barrels, treat them with metal blackening solution rather than paint. thierry laurent 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Confusionreigns178 Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 A good point, well-made, gentlemen. Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Confusionreigns178 Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 Sorry about that, Ade. When I made my original post, I hadn't read the section where you mentioned having already ordered the brass barrels. No disrespect was intended, sir! I thought I was passing on some useful information, but it might come across like I was rubbing your nose in it.... Cheers. Chris. nmayhew 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 The cowl openings need to be enlarged as well. Some folks have wrapped sandpaper around a dowel to increase the radius. As others have mentioned, there isn't much visible of either the waist gunner or tail gun positions once assembled. Here's a couple pics of mine to try and give you an idea of what's visible. I added a bunch of detail and you can see almost none of it. The cockpit is definitely the place to out the most effort into. If you can't find the G-Factor gear, HK makes one in zinc and it comes with their nose weights. Hope that helps. Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ade rowlands Posted June 26, 2020 Author Share Posted June 26, 2020 1 hour ago, Confusionreigns178 said: Sorry about that, Ade. When I made my original post, I hadn't read the section where you mentioned having already ordered the brass barrels. No disrespect was intended, sir! I thought I was passing on some useful information, but it might come across like I was rubbing your nose in it.... Cheers. Chris. No offence taken. Not ordered them yet, just in the basket ready to go. The other thing about the resin barrels is they are far easier to snap off when ham fistedly moving the model about. That’s why I prefer brass barrels and metal pitot tubes. That bit more sturdy. And as pointed out in other replies, the use of a liquid agent to add that gun black just sets them off that little bit nicer. Lothar 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ade rowlands Posted June 26, 2020 Author Share Posted June 26, 2020 Thanks Carl. Helps quite a bit. I might have the bomb bay open so for that etch set but other than the Yahu instrument panel any others would seem to be a waste of effort and more importantly money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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