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1/32 Hasegawa N1K2-J Shiden Kai 343-45

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4 hours ago, Brett M said:

Really nice work, John. I need to invest in rivet tools. B)

Second to last picture , to the right of the blank panel it looks like one of your rivet lines dips down a bit....might just be the picture though!


6 hours ago, Thunnus said:





Thanks guys!  My rivet lines are not perfectly straight I'm afraid.  They don't have to be perfect to be effective but the really wobbly ones get corrected.  You can see one such line below the life raft hatch.  The errant line has been filled with black CA glue and the corrected line is slightly above it.  When the paint goes on, only the corrected line will appear (hopefully).

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Oh no, not at all Brett!  Keep the comments coming!  I appreciate your keen eye!  I may not address every comment but it is better knowing than not knowing.  I've been known to overlook some pretty egregious errors before...


Reversed landing gear covers on a Mustang...



After the starboard side was sanded, I did the same to the port fuselage half.


One thing bothers me about the riveting process.  All of the debris from the wet and dry sanding gets stuck into the rivets and by the time the multiple layers of paint go on, some of rivets get filled up and won't hold a wash.  Does anyone know a good way to remove sanding debris from holes and crevices?  I've tried soaking the parts in water but that doesn't seem to dislodge the stuff very well.


With the riveting done, the fuselage halves can be glued together.  Hasegawa wants to ensure the best possible fit between the wings and fuselage, especially since the fuselage is so wide at the base, so they provide not one or two but three internal bulkheads.


Those bulkheads, along with the sleeve for the tail stabilizers, make the fuselage come together very positively.  Fit has been uniformly excellent on this kit.


Fit of the horizontal stabilizers was improved by a little trimming along the contact joint of the stabilizers.  I left the interlocking tabs alone.


The fuselage seams were cleaned up with a bit of Mr Surfacer 1000 and some sanding.  Afterwards, the fuselage assembly was given a washing in my kitchen sink.  I performed a dry fit of the major components to check things.  This gives one sense of the purposeful proportions and lines of this fighter. The wings, both upper and lower, need to be riveted still.


Similar to the Tamiya Corsair, Hasegawa provides two rear canopy pieces.  One is designed to show the canopy in the closed position.  The top edges between the sliding canopy and rear part are flush.


The second piece takes into account the thickness of the plastic parts when placing the canopy in the open position.  When closed, there is a step between the two parts.  


I personally don't think the difference is very noticeable and choosing the second allows me to keep the sliding part unglued and posing it either closed or open.

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Hi.  You are correct. I would consider purchasing Mr. Millman's guide on IJN Dark Greens and e-mail him directly about your concerns.  Good Luck.  All the best, George

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Thanks guys!  I tried the toothbrush tip and that seemed to work somewhat.  The rivets are VERY small and I was afraid that the toothbrush bristles weren't small enough to reach into the rivets.  So, borrowing from Mike's idea, I took a nylon paintbrush, trimmed it so that it would have some stiffness and used that with water to help clear the crusted plastic dust out of the crevices.  Hopefully, that's enough to withstand the paint layers that are yet to come.


I've not yet glued the cockpit together but it is such a tight fit that dry-fitting is conveniently easy.


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Lovely efforts John.  I’ve been around aircraft (commercial aircraft leasing for 30 years).  I flew helicopters in the Army guard and simply don’t see the pronounce rivet alinement for every rivet ever hammered into an airframe.  If we don’t see a few rows pronounced it’s completely acceptable in normal circumstances.  Your Shinden looks awesome.  The cockpit nestled into the fuselage looks so purposeful.   


Lovely efforts going on here as usual.  Love this build.   

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Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, Thunnus said:

                    So, borrowing from Mike's idea,






Hi George  :hi:





Edited by MikeMaben

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Posted (edited)
On 8/1/2020 at 7:16 PM, Thunnus said:

Does anyone know a good way to remove sanding debris from holes and crevices? 

Hi,  I have not tried yet, :unsure:   but I heard some of modeler using the ultrasonic cleaner to remove grime and debris and most of them are satisfied with that, commonly they are using cleaner with 40KHz one for plastic model. 


Since you are adding rivets on most of your models, I thought you might like to consider.




Edited by Shiba

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