CZPetrP Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 Perfect and nice progress. WOW Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 The rivetting and plumbing in the wheel well looks fantastic John! It really sets these models apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monthebiff Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 Superb work John, that pluming in the wheel well looks very nice. Regards. Andy Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted August 20, 2020 Author Share Posted August 20, 2020 It's been a long time since my last update. I'm still around but as usual, during the summer months my mind/attention starts drifting towards fishing. My favorite lake is closed to boat fishing due to the pandemic so I'm not actually out fishing as much as I'd like but I'm still doing the beach fishing thing, playing around with my tackle and doing solo trips to a small private pond. The wheel wells for the Shiden Kai have been painted and glued into place. Prior to this, I took the trouble of scrubbing the wings to try and remove as much of the wash and sanding dust from the panel lines and rivet lines. And then I glued the upper wings onto the bottom wing half. I'll spend some time cleaning up the joints, especially around the cannon fairings before I glue the wings onto the fuselage. LSP_Kevin, Hartmann52, Troy Molitor and 14 others 17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted August 24, 2020 Author Share Posted August 24, 2020 I am inching along on this build. The small window on the fuselage was glued into place after I placed some rivets on the clear piece. It took two tries to get the hairspray chipping on the prop blades right. I wanted very subtle chipping, mainly on the leading edge of the blades. I also did some hairspray chipping on the spinner and backplate. This was a bit of small test to see what could possibly done on the main fuselage. As for the dark green color, I decided NOT to use the Mr Hobby Kawanishi Green that I specifically ordered for this build. Instead, for the spinner, I used a mixture of two AK Real Color shades: IJN D2 Green Black (RC305) and Luftwaffe RLM 83 Blue (RC327) mixed at a 3:1 ratio. The prop components were also treated to a round of salt fading Here is the completed prop mounted on the engine, posed in my light box. The salt fading, if desired, can be dialed back after application by gently rubbing micromesh on it. dennismcc, Learstang, MikeMaben and 15 others 18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 Nicely weathered prop and spinner John! I think the combination of chipping and salt fading is particularly effective on props. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citadelgrad Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 Wow, what an amazing, and timely, thread. i am reading “race of aces”, a good read about the USAAF fighters in the PTO. They mostly flew P38s and P47s. in, IIRC, November 1944, they first encountered this fighter. They described it as P47 like, as you did. Luckily the Japanese were about out of experienced pilots at the time. very nice work here. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Molitor Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 Amazing results on the prop and spinner John. The hairspray and salt treatment turned out well. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sturmbock Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 Hi John! What a great and amazing WIP you show us here! The Shidenkai is also on my wishlist to build and I am shure to learn a lot from you! Can you explain how you did the salt treatment? It looks really good to me! Thanks! Lutz Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lothar Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 That power unit ist just mind-boggling - stunning WIP Lothar Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted August 24, 2020 Author Share Posted August 24, 2020 Thanks for the input guys! 11 hours ago, Sturmbock said: Hi John! What a great and amazing WIP you show us here! The Shidenkai is also on my wishlist to build and I am shure to learn a lot from you! Can you explain how you did the salt treatment? It looks really good to me! Thanks! Lutz Hi Lutz... I didn't document the process for this particular part of the build but I can use an example from other builds to illustrate how I do the salt fade. First, you spread a thin layer of water over the surface that you want to apply the effect upon. To avoid beading of the water, a flat surface works much better than a glossy one. While the surface is still wet, sprinkle salt crystals on the area. The water will hold the majority of the salt crystals in place and when the water dries, the remaining salt crystals will form a random pattern mask on the surface. Over this, you spray a VERY light coat of a lighter color, usually a tan or grey. I use a very diluted mix for this... very watery to avoid over-doing the effect. This is the trickiest part of the operation since there is a fine line between getting no discernable effect and totally over-doing it. I usually apply this coat in random broad streaks to avoid uniformity. After this paint is dry, you can remove the salt. I usually brush off the crystals using a stiff paintbrush and then spraying the entire surface with water and then wiping it off with a clean cloth. Here is an example where I took the effect too far... A result like this can be dialed back somewhat by rubbing the surface with fine micromesh but there is always the potential of damaging decals or rubbing all the way to the plastic if you are not careful. You can also reduce the effect after the fact by spraying with diluted mixes of the original camo colors. I used a combination of these techniques to get a more reasonable result... This technique can be used as a chipping technique but I use it primarily to create random wear patterns on upper external surfaces. Alex, Rocat, scvrobeson and 8 others 7 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sturmbock Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 Hi John! Thank you very much for taking the time to explain it to me! I think I will give it a try! It really looks very convenient an real. Thanks Lutz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted August 24, 2020 Author Share Posted August 24, 2020 You're very welcome Lutz! It's a great technique that imparts some very good effects. The management of the salt residue afterwards can be an issue, especially when applying it to a large area. The salt tends to build up in crevices and can create a white bloom of salt crystals over time as it dries and can be triggered by a flat coat as well. But it's not an issue when doing it on smaller objects such as prop blades and spinners since you can wash the entire part in water if necessary. Troy Molitor 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sturmbock Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 I will try it on the prop blades of my Ki-84 that is on the bench right now. let's see if it works! Cheers! Lutz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 On 8/23/2020 at 9:28 PM, Thunnus said: I am inching along on this build. The small window on the fuselage was glued into place after I placed some rivets on the clear piece. It took two tries to get the hairspray chipping on the prop blades right. I wanted very subtle chipping, mainly on the leading edge of the blades. I also did some hairspray chipping on the spinner and backplate. This was a bit of small test to see what could possibly done on the main fuselage. As for the dark green color, I decided NOT to use the Mr Hobby Kawanishi Green that I specifically ordered for this build. Instead, for the spinner, I used a mixture of two AK Real Color shades: IJN D2 Green Black (RC305) and Luftwaffe RLM 83 Blue (RC327) mixed at a 3:1 ratio. The prop components were also treated to a round of salt fading Here is the completed prop mounted on the engine, posed in my light box. The salt fading, if desired, can be dialed back after application by gently rubbing micromesh on it. Engine and prop look amazing. This is going to be a fantastic model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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