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Mission Models Paints


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Are we talking about a water-based acrylic a la Tamiya acrylics, or are we talking about lacquer-based acrylics? If they are like Tamiya's acrylics, you can spray those paints on top of just about anything else, and it will not harm the primer, etc underneath. The reason is that water soluble paints contain no really "hot" chemical agents. Lacquers can, and often do have these "hotter" elements, so as a rule of thumb, You can put water soluble paints on anything, but always be careful (or just don't do it at all, ask me how I know) if you are thinking of putting anything hot on top of acrylics. Hope this helps! I, too, am curious about these Mission Models paints, and I know nothing about them yet. Cheers. 

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I have used Mission a lot.  This is a legit water based paint that adheres well.  Follow their direction strictly, it is really a three part product.  One is their paint, second is their harder mix and third is their reducer mix.  Add in the correct proportion to your paint per their instructions.  As long as you lay down a primer or some sort of base it will stick, and does not peel off easily.  You can mask it.  I have had good success with tamiya tape on it.  

 

Clean up start with spraying straight water, then one of their reducer.  They claim that it will self clean but I have found that it eventually builds up in your airbrush and you have to use a stronger solvent like alcohol.  But this is after a lot of sparring.  I used it on the Deagostini Millennium Falcon to paint the entire exterior.  Massive surface area.  

 

Their primer, for the life of me I cannot get it to work.  I find it clogs my airbrush fairly quickly.  The primer itself is great but in then end I get a clogged airbrush before long.  I have lost interest in the primer personally.  

 

Postives, no smell, no fumes.  I feel 100% safe spraying this no respirator.  I do use a spray booth.  The paint has very good self leveling properties.  However as it is water based if you over thin, this stuff gets really watery fast.  

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I painted most of my Trumpeter 1/32 Bf 109 K-4 (Pics here someplace) with them. I thought they worked great they spray similar to Vallejo I add paint to the paint cup and 2-3 drops of the "proprietary" thinner (I was warned no to try anything but MM thinner in the paint) I was a bit alarmed by the color initially but it changes as it dries. I have since been back to the LHS to buy more of it. It covers Tamiya and Alclad no problem, but it is thin (maybe me?) and required a couple of coats for full coverage...I'd give it at least a thumbs up

If you use chipping agent for weathering be advised though, it does come off with alarming speed

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43 minutes ago, DONG said:

J.C.

 

Maple Airbrush Supplies in Calgary carries Mission Model paints if your curious. I just ordered some Iwata parts plus a few bottles to try.

 

Don

 

Thank you so much, Don! I will have to take a look at their website. 

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38 minutes ago, dmthamade said:

Wheels and Wings on the Danforth carries MMP, as does Daileys Hobbies in Oshawa.

 

Don

 

Don, any clue if they are physically open, or are they selling online?  Thx.

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Like a few others in this thread I use Mission Models (MM) paints quite a bit; I am using them in the 109 build I am doing in the Battle of Britain Group Build.  As cbk57 pointed out follow their mixing instructions and they spray very well.  I have tried their primers and they worked ok, but I still prefer Tamiya primer.  Being a lacquer the Tamiya primer provides a nearly bulletproof base and spraying MM paints over it results in a very durable finish.  I clean my airbrush and brushes with Lifecolor brush cleaner, followed by water.  I find this cleaning process works well and it is certainly much cheaper than using MM's thinner to clean items after use.  The one drawback I have encountered is that due to the nature of MM paints any residue in the airbrush can cause issues when another type of paint, such as Tamiya or MRP, is used.  To get around this I use a different airbrush for MM paints.  MM paint also brushes well and a drop or two, unthinned, goes a long way.

 

HTH,

Ernest

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I REALLY wanted to like MM paints but to my horror some are not water resistant when dry, and this is unique to some colors regardless to how much of this, that and their other stuff you add.

 

I also had crystals begin forming in the AB cup with one color even after experimenting with different mixes with this, that and their other stuff. I even sent the paint, the mixing cup with crystals, the thinner and their poopie poly (the "other stuff" previously mentioned)  to Jon and he told me something to the affect that their paint is perfect. (Insert picture of me walking away)

 

Screw that. All I want to do is paint my model, not engage in some obtuse chemistry experiment, and their instructions are so convoluted I don't even think they know the best mix of their this, that and their other thing.

 

Now I just use lacquer. 

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Mixing, lots of additives and guess work is now the main reason I only use MRP.

 

Of course it too has some drawbacks, but its utterly smooth spraying, bombproof acrylic laquer finish and 0 time even thinking about mixing or thinning rations has pushed it over the top for me for my main go to paint. 

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47 minutes ago, Out2gtcha said:

Mixing, lots of additives and guess work is now the main reason I only use MRP.

 

Of course it too has some drawbacks, but its utterly smooth spraying, bombproof acrylic laquer finish and 0 time even thinking about mixing or thinning rations has pushed it over the top for me for my main go to paint. 

 

I like MRP paint a lot as well and I will probably switch to it, and my old standby Tamiya as my airbrushing paint.  As I said above I like the MM paint and think it works just fine, but as you point out there is some work involved prepping it to spray.  That's not normally an issue with me, heck I can even get Lifecolor to airbrush pretty well, but MRP is very trouble free and I live only about 200 kilometers from where it is made so supply should be easy and steady.  I have a lot of MM paint though so it will probably take a few years to switch entirely.  

 

Ernest  

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I finally broke down and tried them on the last F-16 build I did.  Turned out great, but it took some getting use to them.  I’m use to Tamiya acrylics and MM acrylics.  Now that MM is going away, I’ve got to get use to something with FS colors.  

I did notice that the paint would wipe of easily with water, but not once they had cured. Now again, this was with the colors I used on the F-16.  Also, being water based, the shade changes as it dries.  I freaked out when I went back to do a touch up.  But it blended perfectly once dried.  

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