1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-13 Yellow 10

[crobinsonh]

The prop and spinner look very good. Great explanation of your techniques.

[Out2gtcha]

Wow! The paint and staining on the HD prop and spinner are really effective.

[Jerry Crandall]

The staining is caused by the cannon blast tube that goes through the VS 9 open prop hub. The fluid that lubricates the prop gears leaks through the opening. The D-9 did not have that problem as the VS 111 hub was solid. The restored "Yellow 10' unfortunately is missing the original hub and has a D-9 solid prop hub, a big reason why it it can't fly. Don't forget the red prop data stenciling. Great work.

  Cheers , Jerry

Edited March 2, 2021 by Jerry Crandall

[Thunnus]

Thanks guys!  Appreciate the positive vibes and nice comments!

 

2 hours ago, Jerry Crandall said:

The staining is caused by the cannon blast tube that goes through the VS 9 open prop hub. The fluid that lubricates the prop gears leaks through the opening. The D-9 did not have that problem as the VS 111 hub was solid. The restored "Yellow 10' unfortunately is missing the original hub and has a D-9 solid prop hub, a big reason why it it can't fly. Don't forget the red prop data stenciling. Great work.

  Cheers , Jerry

 

Thanks for that explanation, Jerry!  Oh, the red stencils are already on... just hard to see!

 

The wheels have been painted.  No, they do not match!  Photographs of Yellow 10 at capture clearly show that the plane had both the smooth and treaded tires.  I used one of the kit wheels for the smooth version and a Barracuda resin wheel for the treaded one.  Hub detail is a slightly different but close enough not to stand out.  As for painting, I like to use a dark brown on the rubber tires.  Mostly to contrast with the black metal wheel discs but I guess real rubber can have that tinge of brown to it. I've lightened the wear surfaces with a tan color but I've always been dissatisfied with the paint effects up to this point... it's just  too smooth and airbrush-like.

 

 

On the last few builds, I've been developing a technique to impart some smaller, more hard-edged staining to the tires.  I'm sure other people have done this but I've never seen it described or named.  So I'm gonna pretend I invented it and call it "pastel staining".  What I'm doing is using the propensity for a liquid pastel wash to spread out and create tide stains on matte surfaces. Using a light-colored, tannish wash that I've mixed up from pastel chalks, I put small dots of the wash along the center of the tires.  Capillary action draws out the dot of fluid onto a bigger area, dragging with it the fine chalk dust and creating irregular tide marks.

 

 

Using a slightly dampened piece of paper towel, the stained areas are carefully wiped off, usually from side to side perpendicular to how the tire rolls to transition the stains from the contact area onto the tire sidewalls.  The trick here is to use a light stroke to smooth and smear the wash without completely removing it.

 

 

The pattern is repeated until I've achieved a layered set of random stains that looks semi-convincing. 

 

 

To seal the deal, I spray a light coat of clear matte (Model Master Acryl Clear Flat), making sure the matte goes on "dry". It's a very easy way to add some weathering texture to your work.

 

[Uncarina]

That’s an awesome technique, and yet another application for pastels! I’m taking notes.

 

Cheers,  Tom

[Thunnus]

Thanks Tom!

 

The wings have glued onto the fuselage.  FYI... I used a variation of the "pastel staining" technique to dirty up the the wheel wells a bit.  Instead of placing the drops of pastel one by one, I used a stipple brush to "spray" little droplets of the brown pastel wash into the wheel well.

 

 

Preliminary fitting of the central wing part.  It looks to be slightly undersized but a decent fit overall.

 

 

Gotta deal with some glue joint clean-up work before I can finally move on to painting.

 

[Out2gtcha]

Super BOSS! The underside looks great, and the tire weathering is also very effective. 

[Citadelgrad]

More amazing work.  I have the Hase Dora in my stash, wow, what a bar to set.  

[Troy Molitor]

She's really coming together for you now John.  Your tutorials are always most welcomed.  Thanks for sharing these often overlooked items with us.  

[Thunnus]

Thanks guys!  I received a new toy (photography-related) today so I spent most of my time playing with it instead of modeling.

 

But I worked on the wing to bottom fuselage joint, which was filled with black CA glue and re-scribed.  The area received the rivet treatment and now I can move on to the wing roots.

[LSP_Kevin]

So clean!

 

Kev

[Thunnus]

18 hours ago, LSP_Kevin said:

So clean!

 

Kev

 

Thanks Kevin!  That's always the goal, especially on the bottom where the light blue RLM 76 finish will make any flaws very visible.

 

The central wing bottom, with the attached ammo chute is glued into place using CA glue since it is resin.

 

 

The gaps are filled in with White Milliput.  Any excess can be removed with a damp cloth since Milliput, prior to curing, is water-soluble.  This makes for a very clean fill, with a greatly reduced need for sanding.

 

 

[Troy Molitor]

[F-4Phanwell]

Top quality work John, its amazing

[Thunnus]

Some seam clean up on the D-13... The main issue with the wing roots is to eradicate the seam line that runs right through the cannon cover.

 

 

Primer on the resin center wing part revealed a rough surface so I need to smooth that out as well as clean up the glue seams and possibly rivet the area.