1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-13 Yellow 10

[levier]

You need to realize that scoop was reproduced during restoration, and the eventual re-restoration later admitted they had insufficient references when it was done in the 1970s

[Thunnus]

6 hours ago, levier said:

You need to realize that scoop was reproduced during restoration, and the eventual re-restoration later admitted they had insufficient references when it was done in the 1970s

 

Yes, I was going to mention that so thank you!  Here is a photo of the unrestored Ta152H at NASM.  If the supercharger intake is indeed the same, you can see the joint down the middle.  The lines on the resin part ARE a bit exaggerated so I may try to tone them down to match.

 

[Jerry Crandall]

The exact shapes of the scoops of the Ta 152 and Dora 13 may not be exactly the same. Unfortunately When I first saw the Dora 13 and photographed it, the scoop had just been chopped off by a rampaging drunk vandal. He was said to have complained he was tired of seeing that "Nazi airplane" on his street. 

     Cheers, Jerry

[StefanGebhardt]

I think he is aware of it :-)

 

John's 1/32 Zoukei-Mura Ta152H-0 White 7

 

[Thunnus]

17 hours ago, Jerry Crandall said:

The exact shapes of the scoops of the Ta 152 and Dora 13 may not be exactly the same. Unfortunately When I first saw the Dora 13 and photographed it, the scoop had just been chopped off by a rampaging drunk vandal. He was said to have complained he was tired of seeing that "Nazi airplane" on his street. 

     Cheers, Jerry

 

Thanks for the input Jerry!  Your two Dora volumes have been an invaluable resource!  Amazing for you to have discovered the D-13 the way you did but thank goodness it fell into the right hands!

 

 

11 hours ago, reserve_22 said:

The Ta 152 scoop mesh is not original

 

10 hours ago, StefanGebhardt said:

I think he is aware of it :-)

 

John's 1/32 Zoukei-Mura Ta152H-0 White 7

 

 

Yes, thank you!  I was aware of that probability and the mesh was NOT incorporated in my build of the Ta-152H-0...

 

 

[adameliclem]

Hi John,

 

I'm really enjoying your builds. Thanks for sharing.

 

The D-13 in Seattle underwent two "scoop jobs" when it was owned by Doug Champlin. The first replica looked like a thick wedge with a hole in it. There are pictures of that iteration in Shigeru Nohara's book on the Doras. The second replica was better, as shown in Squadron's walkaround book. I think that's essentially what's on Yellow 10 now, after the overhaul by Goshawk. What's clearly missing from the restoration is the distinctive fairing around the junction of the scoop and the cowling. The scoop on the Ta-152H also has a distinctive pinch aft of the intake. The D-13's scoop might have had that feature, too, but I'm not sure.

 

The intake on Jerry Rutman's D-13 conversion set looks great. Dimensions and shapes look right, and Rutman definitely had a feel for the inline-engined Focke-Wulfs.

 

Look forward to the next installment. 

 

Adam

Edited December 16, 2020 by adameliclem

[Thunnus]

I'm pretty full-bore on my other build right now so it has been hard to squeeze in work on the D-13.  The one thing I managed recently was to take a stab at the wood flaps that were used on this aircraft.

 

Compared to the kit flaps, the face of the wood flaps, as provided by Eagle Editions, is flat.

 

Eagle Editions provides a decal for the wood finish but I am not particularly liking this rendition.

 

 

Instead, I am planning to use a wood grain decal sheet by HGW.

 

 

These decals are transparent and, according to the instructions, you can vary the tone of the wood by varying the background color. I've used the Silhouette Portrait cutter to provide masks for the different panels.  Since the decal film is so delicate and prone to damage, even when dry, I've reversed the masks so they can be applied to the back of the decal sheet.  The masks serve as a cutting guide.

 

 

Using white as a base, the flaps are painted in different colors.  Looking like the Partridge Family bus!

 

 

The decals are cut out and positioned one at a time, varying the orientation so the grain isn't going in a uniform direction.  This is what the flaps look like after the HGW decals.

 

It's ok but somehow dissatisfying at the moment.  I'm going to put it away and think about it before calling them finished.

[scvrobeson]

Maybe a coat of a clear yellow or clear orange will get them where you want them?  Personally, I think the panel joints in the EE part are way too heavy, even when compared to their own decal.

 

 

 

Matt 

[dodgem37]

Good work, none-the-less.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

[Thunnus]

Thanks guys!

 

On 12/17/2020 at 9:31 PM, scvrobeson said:

Maybe a coat of a clear yellow or clear orange will get them where you want them?  Personally, I think the panel joints in the EE part are way too heavy, even when compared to their own decal.

 

 

 

Matt 

 

Yes to the heavy engraving!  That is one of the things bothering me.  I've also ordered another woodgrain pattern decal but haven't taken any further action yet.

 

I'm still trying to focus on the 262 build so I've not really jumped into deep water on this build yet.  But I am making a little bit of progress.  Months back, I did check to see if the Eagle Editions resin cockpit fit between the thinned fuselage sides but so much time has elapsed that I didn't feel completely confident of those findings.  So I double checked.

 

With the major cockpit components taped together, the fit looks to be acceptable.

 

 

I simplified the Jabo bomb control panel that came with the Eagle Editions set to match the center panel of the D-13.

 

 

The dark-colored side panel is from the Zoukei Mura Ta152H-1 kit, again to match the D-13.

 

 

Confident that the cockpit fit is okay, I can start the painting process.  Since the resin bits were a mix of different colored resins, I thought I'd start it off by using Mr Primer Surfacer 1000 on everything.

 

 

The Hasegawa D-9 kit has a separate tail.  Instead of following the instructions and inserting the finished tail assembly into the fuselage, I decided to keep the halves separate.  This will give me more glue access to the contact surfaces and ensure a nice strong bond.

 

 

[alaninaustria]

Interesting rendition of the wooden flaps. I would assume that plywood surfaces wouldn't have engraved surfaces, but rather a flush surface?

Very nice work so far John!

Cheers

Alan

[Guest Vincent]

Regarding the flaps, they were not varnished like a piece of indoor furniture, they received the same yellowish anti fungal treatment as internal wooden parts. And to be honest I would not even rule out the possibility that they were linen covered

[Beaconroot]

Glad to see your still plugging along on this one. Always look forward to the updates. Happy New Year

Jim Root

[levier]

Those flaps are well rendered.  I photographed yellow 10 under studio lights when it was first completed by Gosshawk, and that is what the freshly varnished wood looked like.

[Thunnus]

Thanks guys!

 

I decided to spend today riveting the fuselage.  Gotta strike when the willingness is there!  The guide lines are sketched onto the fuselage using a soft lead pencil.  I've been using thin strips of yellow Tamiya tape as guidelines, especially for the double lines of rivets that go around the fuselage.

 

 

After the guide lines are drawn, the rivets are applied using a rivet wheel tool.  In this case, I am using a 1.00mm pitch wheel from Galaxy Tools.

 

 

The fuselage is given an overall sanding with fine sandpaper to remove the raised divots of plastic around each newly-formed rivet.  A dark wash is applied over the riveted parts to check the work.  Rivets and panel lines that don't hold a wash can be fixed at this point.

 

 

 

The initial try on the Grey Matter cowling was not up to par so I filled the rivets with CA glue and re-did them.

 

 

After photos, the riveted parts will be taken to the kitchen sink and given a scrub with a toothbrush to remove as much wash and sanding debris from the rivets and panel lines.