JimRice Posted June 5, 2020 Author Share Posted June 5, 2020 (edited) Last couple of sessions were really just detail work and reinforcing the landing gear. Both axles and oleo struts which insets into the fairing/leg were drilled and pinned after on broke. I then proceeded to break one of the fittings where steel pin inserted into drilled axle housing. I ended up epoxying it. THE LANDING GEAR IS WEAK. I say again, THE LANDING GEAR IS WEAK. I didn't even attempt to use the tail wheel fork, instead fashioning a metal one from a steel paper clip inserted into a brass tube inserted into tailwheel boot. I weighed the model and as it sits in photos its 4.5oz/127.6g and it will get heavier with rigging, decals, sealcoating, etc. I would highly recommend not installing the gear until absolutely last if you don't choose to reinforce with metal pins. Here are current photos of it along with another Boeing product. I really don't anything left to do before rigging as I won't permanently attach engine/prop and control surfaces and a few other tiny items such as fuselage ground handling handles, intake trunk, et. until after rigging and clearcoating. I will be filling the wingtip navigation lights. While most restored Stearmans have navigation lights (and strobes for safety) now, most during the war did not. They had the mounting bracket, but were covered over with fabric. The prop is one I scavenged from a Williams Brother F8C Sparrowhawk. It had right length and hub for "converting" to a McCauley ground adjustable like I wanted to use. So, my Silver Wings Stearman still has both props. So, here it is with 90% done and 90% to go... It looks like a Stearman to me and though I've not checked it directly with any drawings, I haven't really seen much I would say is blatantly wrong. My mind is already racing about which I will build next...likely the other Roden kit converted to represent my dad's cropduster, "Ole Suzy". It will be pretty easy given it retained the Continental R-670 (W-670 Continental Model number) engine and cowling. It will be a pretty easy conversion. Hopefully by then, ICM's Stearman will be out for me to build as a stock Navy N2S-3. If not, I'll build the Silver Wings as a PT-13 or N2S-2. The ultimate will be a 450hp cropduster conversion. I haven't yet picked out a specific one to model or at least use a a guide yet...there are so many to chose from. Edited June 5, 2020 by JimRice Jan_G, Trak-Tor, LSP_Kevin and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted June 5, 2020 Share Posted June 5, 2020 Great work! Im really hoping that Ali and Aerocraft models come to the rescue on the gear, as they did on the Gladdie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimRice Posted June 6, 2020 Author Share Posted June 6, 2020 Wings rigged. Still need to rig tail...four wires with good access should go quickly. But this session is over! LSP_Kevin, scvrobeson, Out2gtcha and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimRice Posted June 7, 2020 Author Share Posted June 7, 2020 Rigged tail wires and began decaling today. Decals are very thin and seem to lay down well but are badly prone to folding corners/edges. On some tiny ones, that is a problem. They fold and cannot be straightened. This happened to me twice. First was on instruments during initial build. As soon at it moved on paper, it folded in half and no amount of water or prodding could release it from itself. Fortunately, I had some Reheat instruments and used one and moved on. Today, it was a red circle in center of star on top wing. It rolled over on itself and stayed. No loss though as when I tried a second, I found the red meatball is too large. When centered, it touched the five corners of blue at edge of star. All pictures I’ve referenced show a white bit between red and blue in center corners. So, for the time being, I will have no center meatball. I hope someone comes to the rescue with good aftermarket decals. The two schemes offered, while accurate just don’t have much to offer. The early blue and yellow with black individual a/c numbers in black is correct as I’ve seen color pictures of the actual a/c in 1940. Later seems white or yellow “buzz numbers” about 36” tall preferred. Lastly, just an FYI, the ignition harness on the engine is for a modern shielded ignition system and wires. The ignition ring is mounted forward around engine case nosecone with shielded wires which screw onto top of spark plugs. In Army and Navy Service most had a simple ring mounted just in front of culinder bases at rear os nosecone and had automotive type black rubber covered wires with clips on plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimRice Posted June 7, 2020 Author Share Posted June 7, 2020 Today's pictures following primary decal application. Also added some details such as intake trunk top, fuselage ground handling handles, permanently affixed rudder and elevators, engine and rigged tail wires. As described above, trying to figure out how I'm going to add red centers to national insignia. Fvdm, MikeC, LSP_Kevin and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted June 7, 2020 Share Posted June 7, 2020 Nice! What did you use for the rigging? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimRice Posted June 7, 2020 Author Share Posted June 7, 2020 40 minutes ago, Out2gtcha said: Nice! What did you use for the rigging? 0.015” music wire. Though round, it looks okay, I think. Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimRice Posted June 9, 2020 Author Share Posted June 9, 2020 (edited) Almost ready to call the Stearman and F4B-4 done, but I keep finding things to do... Edited June 9, 2020 by JimRice Landrotten Highlander, scvrobeson, Out2gtcha and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 They both look excellent, Jim! Kev JimRice and Out2gtcha 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 5 hours ago, LSP_Kevin said: They both look excellent, Jim! +1!!! JimRice 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkd1966 Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 Well Mr Jim - I have to concur with everyone - they both look excellent... After reading your notes about the prop on page 1 - I do like the looks of the prop that you used so I hope someone does a aftermarket prop because I don't have a donor kit to rob a prop from to use on mine... Mike JimRice 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Molitor Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 Well done Jim. They look awesome together. JimRice 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimRice Posted June 19, 2020 Author Share Posted June 19, 2020 I’m calling this one done. Finally decided on markings and applied them. Settled on this Stearman, the first one I ever piloted. Haven’t been able to come up with any real info as the serial number 41294 doesn’t match with a Stearman serials number, as all N2S and PT-13/17 had a 75-xxxx aerial indicating model number 75. Even looking through Joe Baugher’s website didn’t shed any light on a USAAC-USAAF Stearman contract block or Navy Bureau number of 41294. in 1989, this Stearman N4988G was deregistered and exported out of the country. What I did learn was my dad’s 1940 Stearman wasn’t a PT-17 as registered and believed to be, but a Navy N2S-1 BU 3197. Guess I should have done that bit of extra research before beginning to paint it! I suppose I’ll have to build a Navy N2S-1 BU 3196 next...maybe waiting on ICM’s release and then tackle converting my other Roden kit to a crop duster. Alex, MikeC, Out2gtcha and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 Superb result, Jim! Congrats on a fine model. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 Excellent! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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