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Iain

1:32 Hawker Siddeley Andover E.Mk 3 - 3D Print

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Slow progress this week - but I think I'm getting there with the tailplane - with the various elements/angles/interfaces now making sense, after some surgery and scratch-building.

 

May have some images to post later...

 

Still no further with detailed images of the root area (but possibly have enough now) and internal layout on the E3 still unconfirmed.

 

On a more positive note, supplies of 1.5mm Clear HIPS sheet for the cockpit windows, have arrived.

 

Iain

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Looking great Iain!

 

Clever idea to inject resin into the voids...... Something I might have to look at for my tail surfaces later.

 

That's a lot of sanding you're doing...... I'm sick of just working on my two nacelles!

 

Craig

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2 hours ago, brahman104 said:

Clever idea to inject resin into the voids...... Something I might have to look at for my tail surfaces later.

 

That's a lot of sanding you're doing...... I'm sick of just working on my two nacelles!

 

The resin backfill is essential on this as soon as you want to modify/cut/thin one of the components - and I've used it a lot previously in vacforms.

Yes, the endless sanding is wearing a little - but I'm trying to keep focussed on the end result that I have in my minds-eye...  :deadhorse:

 

1 hour ago, crobinsonh said:

When finished this is going to be something very special indeed! Love what you are doing.

 

I hope so - we'll see I guess! :frantic:

 

But thanks everyone for looking in - I'm not the best 'completer finisher' - but I am filled with a great resolve on this one and your interest/support really helps!.

 

I may have a small update tonight - just uploading some photos...

 

A quick clue - can you tell what have I been working on in this photo?

 

48b427_1a2f7996fd4040888d54d53455741c91~

 

Hopefully not too obvious - which means it''s worked.  ;)

 

Iain

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30 minutes ago, Iain said:

 

The resin backfill is essential on this as soon as you want to modify/cut/thin one of the components - and I've used it a lot previously in vacforms.

Yes, the endless sanding is wearing a little - but I'm trying to keep focussed on the end result that I have in my minds-eye...  :deadhorse:

 

 

I hope so - we'll see I guess! :frantic:

 

But thanks everyone for looking in - I'm not the best 'completer finisher' - but I am filled with a great resolve on this one and your interest/support really helps!.

 

I may have a small update tonight - just uploading some photos...

 

A quick clue - can you tell what have I been working on in this photo?

 

48b427_1a2f7996fd4040888d54d53455741c91~

 

Hopefully not too obvious - which means it''s worked.  ;)

 

Iain

 

Windscreen glazing?

 

Derek

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Oh, go on then, Gold Star for Derek!

 

Yes - with my fresh supply of 1.5mm clear HIPS sheet I thought I'd take a break from sanding/cutting/reinforcing big chunks of ABS and have a play with a glazing - to see if this particular cunning plan was going to work.

 

I'll let you guys be the judge by the end of this post.

 

The quality of clear parts can make, or break, a model and so I usually spend a lot of time on a project trying to get these as good as I can get them.

 

I try to use the most suitable material for any given purpose. The fuselage windows I'm going to do as a single strip each side - so wanted a clear, non-yellowing, plastic that would easily conform to the single curve of the fuselage - and gould be glued to the ABS fuselage prints with solvent. So - 0.25mm UV Stabilised PETG sheet will be used.

 

For the cockpit windows I wanted something absolutely flat and distortion free - and something I could use wet and dry followed by polishing with Novus Plastic Polish. PETG doesn't like sanding/polishing at all - but HIPS does - and at 1.5 mm thick substantial enough for shaping and to hold it's flat shape on fitment.

 

Add to that the trick of 'edging' the clear part with a permanent marker that I've been using for years to make neat edges, as well as create the impression of thinner 'glass', I thought I might have the tools to make a go of these.

 

Tonight I cut the first window:

 

48b427_93ad6c095c57482a865fb3dc344e0216~

 

An oversize section was laid over the window aperture and the edges marked on the surface with a new scalpel blade.

 

The section was then trimmed back using Tamiya side-cutters to within about 1mm - then the edges taken back with the T-Bar sander - bit by bit, with lots of trial and error - as well as corner rounding, until it fitted absobl**dy perfectly - even if I do say so myself!

 

Here it is just press fitted in position - took about an hour - but hopefully looks OK!

 

48b427_68ce482a404d4b709ab3180e0dc3661e~

 

48b427_fa18cbe44b774f3eb01cd94b15b0c373~

 

48b427_2506d54c269c4282907f0efeb6e5d4e9~

 

48b427_927c277d43194cd8b7d222ef00e502f7~

 

48b427_93d17ff2929c46bc862b458a16f80d74~

 

48b427_11a229d3617d4844bf7fbccc3fc6601a~

 

Final bonding will be with a little solvent touched into the corners and into the joint - followed by a polish.

 

So, I think there's another challenge sorted, perhaps...

 

Iain

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 Superb Iain :thumbsup:

 

So, you only line the outer edges of the transparency itself with the black marker? (It was actually this edge colour which have away the game - the fit and clarity of the part is perfection). One question; will the solvent used to secure the transparencies in place affect the edge colour? (I assume that you would have paint the remaining internal window strut edges black anyway?).

 

I am loving your work so far Iain (as I'm sure that we all are), so please keep up the awesome work.

 

Regards

 

Derek

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