HGW Wet Transfer tips

[BiggTim]

A couple of the guys over at LSM asked my thoughts on the HGW wet transfers I used for the first time on my FW190D-13 build, so I thought I'd share my answer over here, too, in case it can help someone.

 

This was my first time using them, and I loved them! Here was my procedure, based on the instructions:

 

     1. Cut out the transfer with about 1/16-1/8 inch of space around it (so you have something to grab later with the tweezers when removing the carrier film). As with decals, a glossy surface is best, but I found that these things would lay down well even on a pretty matte surface using this method.

 

     2. Dip the transfer in WARM water for about 10 seconds, enough to soak the backing paper, and remove. Lay it on a surface that won't soak away the water and let it sit for maybe 20 seconds in it's puddle, but don't give it too much time to cool off - just enough time for it to get loose on the paper. (Water that feels almost hot to the touch worked best, maybe 120 F. Not painful, maybe like the water most people would shower in)

 

*Note: the instructions recommend setting solution from Mr. Hobby, I think, but I didn't have any of that, so I used the old Microscale products, shown in the picture. I even labeled them 1 and 2, so I would not forget what order to use them in.

 

     3. Apply some Micro SET (NOT Micro SOL) to the surface where the transfer is going. This was new for me, since I use only Micro SOL for decals. But for these things, BOTH products seemed to be needed. Micro SET is the one with the blue writing on it, and it softens the material and improves adhesion, but it's a weaker solution than the Micro Sol, and is less likely to mess up the carrier film or the transfer. Do NOT use Micro SOL (red label) until AFTER you remove the carrier film later.

 

     4. Dab some water off the transfer, then slide it off the backing paper onto the surface with the Micro Set on it. Position it and press the liquid out from under the film with a decal squeegee, paper towel, cotton bud (Q-tip), or such. I'd leave a little so you can do any final positioning before pushing it all out. For bigger transfers, I slopped on a second coat of Micro Set under the edges of the film and pressed it out again. The film is very thin and clear, but strong, so it's easy to position, but it can curl back on itself just like a decal, so take care. 

 

**Here's an important note: If you realize that you buggered the position after you press out the liquid, get some water worked under the film with a paint brush ASAP to dilute the Micro Set and break it free before it adheres, which it does damn quick! Then reposition it, work some new solution under it and repeat the process.

 

     5. The instructions say to wait 3-4 hours for it to dry before removing the carrier film, but I found that many of the transfers, especially the smaller ones, were dry enough to peel the film in 30 minutes, and even the bigger ones only took an hour or two. If you think it's ready, carefully get a grip on the corner of the glossy film with some tweezers and peel it back slowly. Obviously, if the transfer starts to come up, STOP, work a dab of Micro Set under it again, re-squeegee, and wait longer. I found that slowly peeling the film back parallel to the surface, rather than pulling straight out and away, reduced the chances of lifting the transfer.

 

     6. After the film is removed, you can apply Micro SOL (red label) to the transfer, just like you would to a decal, dab off the excess, and let it dry. I found that these transfers even laid into panel lines and details without poking or cutting usually, but once in a while it still helped to poke a hole and let some Micro Sol get in there to help it out. The Micro Sol has the added benefit of breaking down all the leftover adhesive, so I gave each one a final wipe with some on a Q-tip after they were good and dry. It's important to get that adhesive off, because it will cause weathering chalks and washes to behave oddly in that spot. The instructions say to use water to do this, but I found it really didn't get it all off as well.

 

Once these transfers are good and dry, I found they are tough as hell, way tougher than any decal. In a couple test cases, I even tried lightly sanding on them with fine grit paper to see if they would peel off, and they wouldn't without some good pressure. I wouldn't suggest taking that too far, though. They are almost like painted on markings. I chipped them just like paint, and they held up great. 

 

All in all, I found them a fantastic product, and will use them again. Hope that helps!!

Tim

 

Edited May 9, 2020 by BiggTim

[mozart]

Thanks for that Tim, they are not easy to use but I think are very worthwhile learning about them because they are so much better than decals. 

[Pat H]

I just picked up some of these  transfers for my next build, so these  tips will definitely come in handy.

 

I'll have to pick up some microsol and set. I honestly switched over to using solvaset because I got sick of wasting money on microsol  because my clumsy ass always spills it. I really wish they'd start using bottles that are a bit less narrow. Though, I guess I could just transfer them into different jars...

 

Hindsight... 

[mozart]

13 minutes ago, Pat H said:

I just picked up some of these  transfers for my next build, so these  tips will definitely come in handy.

 

I'll have to pick up some microsol and set. I honestly switched over to using solvaset because I got sick of wasting money on microsol  because my clumsy ass always spills it. I really wish they'd start using bottles that are a bit less narrow. Though, I guess I could just transfer them into different jars...

 

Hindsight... 

Pat, I always stand all my small bottles of paint, microsol, glue or whatever in a broader jar to prevent such spillages. It’s saved me many times! Welcome to the forum by the way 

[BiggTim]

8 hours ago, Pat H said:

I just picked up some of these  transfers for my next build, so these  tips will definitely come in handy.

 

I'll have to pick up some microsol and set. I honestly switched over to using solvaset because I got sick of wasting money on microsol  because my clumsy ass always spills it. I really wish they'd start using bottles that are a bit less narrow. Though, I guess I could just transfer them into different jars...

 

Hindsight... 

That made me laugh, my friend! I have spilled that stuff so many times it's not even funny. I now keep them both in a coffee mug , along with my CA bottles, which I also frequently tip over.

[Sepp]

I agree pretty much completely with your assessment, Tim, although I have found that leaving the things for the reccommended 6-8 hrs does reduce the liklihood of the decals tearing or breaking up.  If you're quick you can, as you say, recover the situation.  I would add one caution though - don't be in a hurry to use them once they're wetted.  If you're too eager, they'll break up on the backing paper and there's no way back from that.  Geeeeently try to move the carrier film - if it doesn't want to move freely, don't try and coax it because there lies disappointment and ruin!

 

I would also add a couple of general cautions (and also apologise for a picture heavy semi-hijacking of your thread!).  

 

Firstly, either there are some bad fakes out there, or HGW have hit a quality snag somewhere. The pic below shows two sheets for the P-51D:

On the left, one definitely direct from HGW, on the right one iirc via an online store (although tbh I've bought so much from so many places it is possible it also came from HGW direct). Note the obvious colour difference on the natl markings.  Note also HGW branding missing from the right-hand sheet.

 

Secondly, examine the sheets carefully for various spelling errors and content errors. 

 

The next two pix show the same area from both sheets - direct from HGW first. Note that the white registration on the first sheet is nearly spot on, that on the second is way off (item #50 shows this best).  Note that both sheets have the same circular tank contents decal... 02 gals? 92, surely, as that is the tank capacity.  I'm no expert on the P-51, but as a pilot, it looks mighty odd to me. Note also the second sheet omits the "ground here" legend from item #34.

 

In the next pic (of the sheet possibly bought online, but the sheet bought direct is identical), I believe the stencil at top (item #106) ought to begin "fuel lines and pipes", and "securely" is mis-spelled:

 

Other differences included the drop tank filler cap rings.  Lovely, thin, rings from the first set (cap itself is painted):

versus bloody great (poorly registered) red blobs on the second, with no gap between the ring and what I presume is supposed to be a fill for the cap (item #95):

and (not shown) the prop blade decals on the first sheet had good silver backgrounds, whereas those on the second sheet were grey. 

 

In general the second sheet produced a noticable film residue whereas the first did not (and neither did the Spitfire sheet I have subsequently used).  Despite all this, I really like the dry transfers and will definitely be using them again... or some of them, at least. 

 

Once again, Tim, apologies for hijacking your thread but it seemed pertinent to mention.

 

Cheers!

 

John

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 14, 2020 by Sepp

[BiggTim]

Don't apologize, that was good info!!

[Woody V]

Guide to decal solutions:
SET is to be put where you intend to SET the decal.

SOL = Solvent and is to be applied over the decal to further soften it.

 

Mr. Mark Setter has adhesive properties, Micro Set does not.

[chuck540z3]

FWIW, here are some of my experiences and thoughts to go with yours Tim:

 

-  I left a lot more than 1/16"- 1/8" of decal film around each decal before application.  You want something to grip later when you pull it off, and I prefer to not grab anything near the decal itself for fear of damage.

 

-  I let my decals dry for 24 hours before attempting to pull off the decal film.  I know we are all anxious to see what the results are, but why not make sure they are 100% dry?

 

-  I used Microset and not a drop of Microsol after the decal film had been pulled off, mostly because I had no reason to do so.  Every decal was laid down perfectly flat with no film, so there was nothing to settle down.  Maybe it was due to my long drying time?

 

-  Some decals can be repaired if they lift a bit.  I had a long thin walkway line that lifted in one spot, so I trimmed the film around the lifted decal, reapplied it with Microset, let it dry for 24 hours, then gently rubbed it before attempting to lift off the film.  Voila, repaired decal.

 

-  If you want to use HGW wet transfer decals for a future build and they are available, buy them now!  For example, right now the 1/32 Tamiya Spitfire and Special Hobby Tempest decals are no longer available, so you need to scramble to find a supplier that still has them.  Like Two Bobs decals (and many other decal manufacturers), when they're gone, they're gone!

 

Here's the tail of my Spitfire with several tiny decals applied.  Normally, you would see a bit of decal film around each one, but since the film has been completely removed, there are no decal edges.  I will be using HGW decals on my future Tempest a a result.

 

 

Cheers,

Chuck

 

 

[D.B. Andrus]

40 minutes ago, chuck540z3 said:

Like Two Bobs decals (and many other decal manufacturers), when they're gone, they're gone!

 

Chuck

 

HGW re-issues some sets from time to time. The 1/48 P-47 rivet sets, for example. However, you may be correct re. 1/32 sets, though, as I have not had experience with those.

 

Cheers,

Damian

[Greif8]

Thank you both Tim and Chuck for the information.  I plan to use some HGW Wet transfers on the two builds I am planning for the upcoming BoB Group Build and this information was very helpful.

 

Ernest

[Grissom]

I used these for the first time, last week on my P-47D build.   I had done a little bit of research on YouTube and one fellow recommended using Microset in lieu of HGW's recommended Mr Mark Softer.   I applied Microset to an MRP painted surface with a satin sheen to it (Gunship green straight out of the bottle, no gloss coat).   Everything seemed to work as expected.  The following morning, a good 10 hours later, I carefully peeled the carrier film away from the transfer and noticed how nicely the transfer had set.   Beautiful, or so I thought.   A couple of days later, I used a very soft paint brush to dust the part prior to applying a clear coat over it.   To my complete surprise, two of the transfers almost lept off the painted surface as the brush swept over them.   Because there was no carrier film, I wasn't able to detect the adhesion problem by sight alone - the transfers looked like they had properly settled into the surface of the part.  Not knowing if Microsol would be too powerful and damage the transfer, I looked on my shelf for an alternative.   There, sitting straight in front of me, was a bottle of Mr Mark Softer I had forgotten I had.   Doh!   I carefully applied it over each of the transfers and later tested one of the transfer's adhesion with the tip of a toothpick.  I stopped poking and prodding it when it became apparent that the setting solution had worked.   Bottom line is this, I love these transfers.   Just my 2 cents worth...

[ade rowlands]

Thanks all for your contributions to this thread. I am currently working on the HGW Rebox of the Cyber Hobby 109E. Though I won’t be using most of the decals this time as I’m not doing a scheme from the box I will be using the stencil data and National markings which are all HGW. I’m not sure that I’m going to use the rivet decals yet as I’m worried it will be. A lot of work for little reward once paint is applied over them. Though I do use MRP pretty much exclusively now which has great coverage with thin applications so it might work. We shall see. Will take all tips and hints from this thread onboard when the time comes.