SBD-3 Guadalcanal done, done and..

[scvrobeson]

You airbrushed Micro-sol? This is the first I'm hearing of that being a possibility.  How did it do?  Sprayed straight from the bottle?

 

 

 

Matt 

Edited May 28, 2021 by scvrobeson

[Woody V]

6 hours ago, scvrobeson said:

You airbrushed Micro-sol? This is the first I'm hearing of that being a possibility.  How did it do?  Sprayed straight from the bottle?

Matt 

 

Yes, just pour some in the cup and have at it. I prefer doing it that way because it applies an even amount over the decal rather than the puddles and runs you get brushing it on. 

 

Woody

[Pete Fleischmann]

2 hours ago, Archer Fine Transfers said:

 

Yes, just pour some in the cup and have at it. I prefer doing it that way because it applies an even amount over the decal rather than the puddles and runs you get brushing it on. 

 

Woody

ok now this is genius. 
wonder how many other “never woulda thought of that” solutions are out there that I am completely ignorant of?

 

 Thanks Woody-

 

Pretty impressive show going on here! Outstanding work my friend 

 

cheers

Pete

 

[scvrobeson]

14 hours ago, Archer Fine Transfers said:

 

Yes, just pour some in the cup and have at it. I prefer doing it that way because it applies an even amount over the decal rather than the puddles and runs you get brushing it on. 

 

Woody

 

You sir, are a genius.  I never in a million years would have thought of doing that, but now I must try it.

 

 

 

Matt 

[Woody V]

10 hours ago, scvrobeson said:

 

You sir, are a genius.  I never in a million years would have thought of doing that, but now I must try it.

Matt 

 

I don't know about the genius part, but I discovered it developing the rivet skins. Puddles of Micro Sol (or most any other brand) caused the clear film to dissolve and leave crater-like flaws in the film.

After applying the decal, give it a minute to bond to the point where it can't be moved and spray the MS evenly over the decal and the clear will absorb the MS and become very pliable like this:

 

Then, as the moisture under the decal evaporates the film displaces it and is sucked down into and around the details. 

 

The wrinkling is not as dramatic on a printed decal because it's thicker, but the end result is the same. Clear film is not pliable - MS makes it so. Dip a piece of clear film in MS and it will liquify.

 

Another trick is to prep the surface with Alclad Aqua Gloss and skip the MS. That stuff is amazing in drawing the decal into and around details. The only downside is that you have to clean up and excess around the decal before it dries which is a time consuming pain.

[Woody V]

JUST A SMALL UPDATE TODAY

 

Gloss coat and a pin wash on the panel lines which run the gamut from almost not there to razor sharp to trenches.

 

I was hoping to get the hairspray chipping done before the gloss coat, but despite some pretty aggressive scrubbing, I got nothing. I didn’t have any difficulties on the interior but that chipping seemed to result in larger chunks of paint coming off so I used less hairspray on the exterior and I think that’s where I messed up. So now I’ll have to paint the chips on, something I’m not very good at.

 

 

 

Now that this out of the way the real weathering can begin.

[Citadelgrad]

Amazing results, I am watching with interest.

[Woody V]

ANOTHER BRIEF UPDATE

 

Added chipping using silver ink. I really don’t like doing it with a brush because I never get the results I want - just looks like paint daubs but I guess I’ll just have to live with it. The only thing that looks like chipped paint is chipped paint in my opinion. Frankly, at this point I want this build over with, it’s been over a year since I started and enough is enough already.

 

I then sealed everything with clear and started with the weathering which isn’t really looking the way I was hoping. I had much better results with washes and streaking on my mule by just applying over the bare paint without a clear coat.

 

BEFORE

 

AFTER

 

So, back to the drawing board to try something else to get the grimy streaking I’m hoping for.

[D.B. Andrus]

Woody

 

What material are you using for the weathering?  Oil washes, acryl washes, etc?

 

Cheers,

Damian

[Woody V]

9 minutes ago, D.B. Andrus said:

What material are you using for the weathering?  Oil washes, acryl washes, etc?

 

I'm using highly thinned oils and I do believe that is the crux of the problem, just not enough color to spread around. My next attempt will be lightly thinned oils and straight oils.... with the liquid part soaked off on a paper towel.

 

In fact, as soon as I stop here, I'm off to give it a go.

[Woody V]

1 hour ago, D.B. Andrus said:

What material are you using for the weathering?  Oil washes, acryl washes, etc?

 

Okay, a quick test on my mule using straight oil worked great. I'm liking this oil weathering stuff.

[Citadelgrad]

I have done a lot of oil work on armor, now, this was always with bare, flat, non clear coated paint, so it will be a little different, but I didn't thin it before use.  Hear me out.  Take a piece of newspaper or raw cardboard, and put a dollop of oil paint on there.  After a while, the oils, well, some of them, will leach out into the paper or cardboard. You will see it spreading.  You want to concentrate the pigment in this way.

 

Then I would take a brush, transfer a tiny amount, really tiny, of the paint to the model, right at an exhaust or other source of a stain, like rust from the base of a lifting lug.  THEN I take a wide brush with thinner, not dripping but wet, usually odorless mineral spirits, and just draw it in the direction of the stain.  The brush and thinner will give you a linear, fading stain. 

 

The good part is if you hate it, particularly on clear coated paint, just keep cleaning the brush and hitting it with thinner and it will completely disappear. 

 

Just my .02, I am not trying to portray myself as some expert.   

[Woody V]

17 minutes ago, Citadelgrad said:

I have done a lot of oil work on armor, now, this was always with bare, flat, non clear coated paint, so it will be a little different, but I didn't thin it before use.  Hear me out.  Take a piece of newspaper or raw cardboard, and put a dollop of oil paint on there.  After a while, the oils, well, some of them, will leach out into the paper or cardboard. You will see it spreading.  You want to concentrate the pigment in this way.

 

Then I would take a brush, transfer a tiny amount, really tiny, of the paint to the model, right at an exhaust or other source of a stain, like rust from the base of a lifting lug.  THEN I take a wide brush with thinner, not dripping but wet, usually odorless mineral spirits, and just draw it in the direction of the stain.  The brush and thinner will give you a linear, fading stain. 

 

The good part is if you hate it, particularly on clear coated paint, just keep cleaning the brush and hitting it with thinner and it will completely disappear. 

 

Just my .02, I am not trying to portray myself as some expert.   

 

Your 2¢ is always welcome here!

 

The technique you described is exactly how I'm proceeding.

[Citadelgrad]

1 hour ago, Archer Fine Transfers said:

 

Your 2¢ is always welcome here!

 

The technique you described is exactly how I'm proceeding.

Whew!  I was fingers crossed that it wouldn't be taken as know it all. 

 

I wasn't sure how it would react to the gloss, as it's always on dead flat on my armor.  Maybe try it on a dull coat?  It's pretty controllable on flat, and with the clear, it won't change the paint like a "filter".

 

Spitballing here.  I love this project.  Keep going!  

[Woody V]

12 hours ago, Citadelgrad said:

Whew!  I was fingers crossed that it wouldn't be taken as know it all. 

I wasn't sure how it would react to the gloss, as it's always on dead flat on my armor.  Maybe try it on a dull coat?  It's pretty controllable on flat, and with the clear, it won't change the paint like a "filter".

Spitballing here.  I love this project.  Keep going!  

 

I've learned a lot from suggestions like yours and that's what we're all here for - to learn and share.