LSP_K2 Posted June 26, 2020 Author Share Posted June 26, 2020 The principal reasons I'm perfectly willing to spend whatever time is necessary on the tracks are twofold; one, in competition (which this vehicle will certainly be), ejector pin marks and mold parting lines are an absolute no no. Secondly, to me at least, the tracks on a tracked vehicle, are what makes or breaks the overall appearance, so just must look right, regardless of how much effort it may be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 12 minutes ago, LSP_K2 said: The principal reasons I'm perfectly willing to spend whatever time is necessary on the tracks are twofold; one, in competition (which this vehicle will certainly be), ejector pin marks and mold parting lines are an absolute no no. Secondly, to me at least, the tracks on a tracked vehicle, are what makes or breaks the overall appearance, so just must look right, regardless of how much effort it may be. They're also what a tracked vehicle is - tracked. Well worth getting right I'm enjoying this build Richard LSP_K2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted June 26, 2020 Author Share Posted June 26, 2020 And speaking of track, the manganese/manganese alloy of the tracks, will not turn to pure rust in a short time, but rather has an overall "track color" that should look as close as possible to manganese. While even a manganese alloy will rust over time (75 year old tanks in outdoor museums being a perfect example), there's simply no way they looked that way in actual combat conditions during the war, so painting/weathering these, will take some careful thought, but I have some ideas that I think will work out just great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 Dos this help?: https://www.hcmachineryparts.com/track-padcrawler-shoes.html Is it known if the links are cast or drop forged? Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juggernut Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 (edited) As an FYI, the guide horns on the tracks are two different heights. This is because of clearance issues around the drive sprocket. I never would've known this had I not had David Parker's book on the king tiger. There's not a huge difference in size but make sure to check that they sit correctly...you may have to resize one set of guide horns if it interferes with the tooth engagement. If it's just for show then I wouldn't even bother as the difference isn't that pronounced. Edited June 26, 2020 by Juggernut LSP_Ray and LSP_K2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted June 26, 2020 Author Share Posted June 26, 2020 8 minutes ago, RLWP said: Dos this help?: https://www.hcmachineryparts.com/track-padcrawler-shoes.html Is it known if the links are cast or drop forged? Richard I assume they were cast, but I'm not 100% sure. 5 minutes ago, Juggernut said: As an FYI, the guide horns on the tracks are two different heights. This is because of clearance issues around the drive sprocket. I never would've known this had I not had David Parker's book on the king tiger. There's not a huge difference in size but make sure to check that they sit correctly...you may have to resize one set of guide horns if it interferes with the tooth engagement. If it's just for show then I wouldn't even bother as the difference isn't that pronounced. I just checked, and the clearance is indeed off a bit on the Jagdtiger as well, so thanks a bunch for pointing that out. I'll just sand a little off of the tops of the inner horns that are in the vicinity of the sprockets. Trumpeter did capture the groove in the sprocket that's supposed to accommodate the inner guide horn height, but their math was apparently just a tad off to attain the actual needed clearance. I considered grabbing the book you refer to (and the one on the Jagdtiger too, different author), but just hate to spend money on a "how I did it" type of publication, much preferring instead to buy supplies and such. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted June 26, 2020 Author Share Posted June 26, 2020 Yet another boo boo on my part; I removed and cleaned up a real nice rendition of the axe provided for the vehicle, only to realize there's a different one for the Jagdtiger, and I inadvertently grabbed the one for the King. I suspect that while the axe was mounted in more or less the same place on the two, the King had the ventilator between the two hatches, whereas the Jadtiger has that ventilator on the right hand side of the radio operator/gunner, and that ends up with two rather different, though similar, mountings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted June 26, 2020 Author Share Posted June 26, 2020 Does anyone have any idea what the tube under the rear access doors was for? I assume a radio antenna perhaps, but can't confirm. There are several small details that seem consistent with every Jagdtiger photo that I've ever seen, but I've never been able to ascertain their purpose. LSP_Ray 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juggernut Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 I think you’re right that it’s the antenna case. LSP_K2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted June 26, 2020 Author Share Posted June 26, 2020 7 minutes ago, Juggernut said: I think you’re right that it’s the antenna case. I suspect that's correct too. There's a base for the antenna on the roof, so this tube is probably for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 6 hours ago, LSP_K2 said: I assume they were cast, but I'm not 100% sure. I just checked, and the clearance is indeed off a bit on the Jagdtiger as well, so thanks a bunch for pointing that out. I'll just sand a little off of the tops of the inner horns that are in the vicinity of the sprockets. Trumpeter did capture the groove in the sprocket that's supposed to accommodate the inner guide horn height, but their math was apparently just a tad off to attain the actual needed clearance. I considered grabbing the book you refer to (and the one on the Jagdtiger too, different author), but just hate to spend money on a "how I did it" type of publication, much preferring instead to buy supplies and such. FYI: Both of those books are waaaaaay beyond 'how I did it.' The David Parker for one has a ton of reference pics. He typically shows pics of each part he is correcting or scratchbuilding. They are both very worthwhile books. Sam Dwyer's JagdTiger book has photos of a surviving interior, but that wouldn't help you, I suppose. LSP_K2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted June 27, 2020 Author Share Posted June 27, 2020 16 minutes ago, LSP_Ray said: Sam Dwyer's JagdTiger book has photos of a surviving interior, but that wouldn't help you, I suppose. Not really, no. I've got a ton of Jagdtiger references myself, but the reason for some small details still elude me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Belugawhaleman Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 Wow! That looks like a big awesome kit. I'm returning to modeling after a 20 year hiatus and I'm currently working On the big Takom Renault ft. I'm waiting on some decals from FC model trend to complete the kit. I'm looking for a simple marking and painting as a camouflage scheme will be to difficult for my long dormant airbrush skills. I'm waiting for a big Trumpeter T34/76 -1943 to come in the mail. I've been browsing this site for months for ideas and techniques and I am impressed by what I've seen. Thanks all Paul. LSP_K2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted June 27, 2020 Author Share Posted June 27, 2020 The Trumpeter T-34 series is great, real good value for the money spent. The vast majority of the "issues" I have with this kit, are of my own doing, and do not reflect badly on Trumpeter. As to straightforward schemes, many of the T-34s are about as simple as they get. I have a stalled 1:16 T-34/85, and I was really enjoying it, and do intend to finish it, perhaps once this kit is done. There's a WIP here somewhere of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted June 29, 2020 Share Posted June 29, 2020 Man Kevin. I don't envy you at all on the pin mark clean up business. I've built ONE Trumpy kit and it was LACED with pin marks and in all the wrong places. My hat goes off to you my brother. Really good looking build going on in here so far. LSP_K2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now