Anthony in NZ Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 (edited) You're welcome! In actual fact, when I first saw the kit nose I decided I want going to get the kit as it just 'roared' wrong. Roy and especially Kerry asked me to do it and my first reaction was...are you kidding me......there is no fixing that! Besides it is just so complex in shape, I am just setting Roy up to get crucified if I get it wrong (a responsibility I didnt really want to take!). Anyway, persistent and persuasive nagging(and I love the Typhoon/Tempest family), there we have it Hmmm, I cant remember. I do remember him replacing the first ones like you but cant remember why. Someone here will have a better memory than us LOL Edited July 20, 2020 by Anthony in NZ Sakai and chuck540z3 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 Chuck, Just WOW. I have the same kit, and also both of the Barracuda resin replacements (the 'flawed' one and the replacement). I must say, following your build, I don't know if I want to tackle the kit now! You are doing stellar work and the replaced/enhanced rivet detail is amazing. And the panel lines. I'm watching!! chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 Excellent stuff! That front end is quite beastly, in a good way! Surprised that the Barracuda spinner did not perfectly match the Barracuda cowling. chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted July 21, 2020 Author Share Posted July 21, 2020 (edited) Thanks again gents. 11 hours ago, Brett M said: Man, your scribing is always so perfect and depth even everywhere. Any particular tools you like using? Thanks Brett. I have used every scriber made: Tamiya, Squadron, Hasegawa, UMM, Creos (with exchangeable bits), needle in a pin vice and a few others I forget right now, but I always come back to my Trumpeter Scriber (TS), but not just one of them, because I use 2. Depending on the properties of the plastic or resin, width of panel line and how deep I want the panel line, I like to use a relatively dull TS, followed by a sharp TS. If you use the sharp one right away, it tends to grab stuff and take on a path of it's own, making a mess. A dull TS usually stays within the panel line without a fight, creating a pathway and guide for the sharper one in subsequent strokes. Methodology, whether it's an existing panel line or a new one cut beside a guide like Dymo or other tape, is as follows: Scribe the first pass with a dull TS, barely cutting the plastic. Barely, don't push it. Another pass, just a tiny bit deeper. A light pass with a sharp TS. A bit harder with above. Finish with one pass of the dull TS #1 and #2 show the way. #3 and #4 create most of the groove, while #5 cleans up the inevitable cut material out of the way. This means that most of my panel lines have been scribed at least 3-5 times. If you slip up (and you will!), fill and sand with CA glue, then start again after it dries, but before the glue gets too hard a few hours later. Some Tools of the Trade Cheers, Chuck Edited July 21, 2020 by chuck540z3 Victor K2, Sakai, chrish and 7 others 9 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 (edited) Thanks Chuck, that's very interesting. I've got the trumpeter tool but mine is quite sharp and creates a line that is deep and thin and, as you say, tends to dig out plastic and wander. So the answer is to get another one or tool that is blunter... Resin nose looks great btw! Edited July 21, 2020 by turbo Sakai and chuck540z3 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted July 21, 2020 Author Share Posted July 21, 2020 2 minutes ago, turbo said: Thanks Chuck, that's very interesting. I've got the trumpeter tool but mine is quite sharp and creates a line that is deep and thin and, as you say, tends to dig out plastic and wander. So the answer is to get another one or tool that is blunter... Resin nose looks great btw! Thanks. That's why I usually have about 3 new Trumpeter scribers in the stash and as my dullest scriber starts to get a bit too dull, the "sharp" one is likely dull enough by then to take it's place, while I open a new one. By the time I finish this model after my Harvard build, my dull one will be toast. Super sharp scribers on their own are very hard to control, as you've found out. Cheers, Chuck turbo, Sakai and Brett M 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spyrosjzmichos Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 Looking great as usual Chuck! Regarding the riveting tool, what needle is that? Is it from a compass? Sakai and chuck540z3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennismcc Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 Looking good, the nose looks great, so great that I am now looking at the Barracuda nose for my build. Cheers Dennis Anthony in NZ and chuck540z3 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted July 21, 2020 Author Share Posted July 21, 2020 8 hours ago, spyrosjzmichos said: Looking great as usual Chuck! Regarding the riveting tool, what needle is that? Is it from a compass? I'm not sure where I got the needle tool, but it's for scribing curves like circles and not punching rivets. The needle is super hard and never gets dull, so it must be an alloy of some kind and not ordinary steel. For riveting, I use an ordinary needle in a pin vice. The needle should be a bit wider than most with a taper that allows you to not only punch the hole, but adjust the width at the same time. ie: deeper is wider, if that makes sense. Cheers, Chuck Brett M, chrish, spyrosjzmichos and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayW Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 Chuck - just happened onto this build (because I like the Typhoon/Tempest airplanes). Just effin' cool what you are doing. Following. Sakai and chuck540z3 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBC Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 19 hours ago, chuck540z3 said: Do you know what the problem was with the first batch of noses? Like I said, my original and the one a got later from Roy look identical to me. Cheers, Chuck 19 hours ago, chuck540z3 said: Chuck, This is what the two that I had looked like-easily seen just behind the casting block. The first from Ultracast and then the replacement from Barracuda. I don't remember if this pic is of the first or second. Doesn't matter really as they were identical. I can accept having a bad one the first time but then having Roy not Q.C. the replacement just ain't cricket in my opinion. Incredible build going. Don't want to sidetrack with this post but did want to answer your question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted July 21, 2020 Author Share Posted July 21, 2020 (edited) Thanks for the pic. I am certain that if you identified this problem to Roy again, he would replace the defective part- again. I have used Barracuda products countless times and have always been thrilled with the quality, service and even the price. He could charge 25% more and I'd still buy everything he had for a specific build. Now that I think of it, maybe I got two good noses while you got two bad ones, because one of them was meant for you!? July 21/20 A quick update, but one covering all of Steps 21 to 27. Step 21 is the front radiator parts H9 and H43, while Step 22 is the rear rad parts H10 and H44: Assembly is straight forward, but fitting these parts into the narrowed nose is another matter. The front part H9 on the left needs to be sanded quite a bit to get it to fit, while the rear rad on the right needs some sanding, but less so. Interior parts of the Barracuda nose were ground down as well with many iterative dry fits. Don’t rush this, because you want a tight fit with no gaps later. Step 23 and Step 26 create the central intake ring with 3 different parts. These parts can be eliminated by using the Barracuda one piece resin part, which is much finer and accurate. Make sure you carefully follow the instructions so that you retain at least a mm of the ring at the rear, which fits into Part H43. This takes a bit of trimming of both parts to get them to mesh. Step 24 is very confusing. It looks like you glue together the assemblies in Step 21 and 22 together. Don’t do it! Instead, after trimming and painting the assemblies, you can glue the front radiator parts flush with the back of the intake. And the rear assembly to some tabs within the nose. Everything is only dry fit of course. The air ramp at the rear comes in two parts, E1 and E18 in Step 27. And after a little sanding and trimming, they click into grooves within the nose, resting against the rear rad. These parts do not fit each other at all, so I recommend you trim and dry fit them many times before committing to glue. It turns out all the panel lines and rivet detail are mostly correct, but I added the two small panel lines and rivets on part E1 (front of pic) as per references. After trimming and a little coaxing with masking tape, this assembly fits pretty good now, so once it is painted, I will glue everything together before attaching the nose to the fuselage. The last assembly as found above in Step 26 is the vent created with parts E2 and E3. This will also be glued later after painting. That’s it for a few more weeks boys. Enjoy the summer while it lasts! Cheers, Chuck Edited July 22, 2020 by chuck540z3 Dpgsbody55, Lemonstein, spyrosjzmichos and 25 others 27 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lemonstein Posted July 22, 2020 Share Posted July 22, 2020 (edited) Lovely work Chuck - I'm always amazed by how clean your builds & photos are - no scuffs or dried glue or dust....You must've found the cleanest place in the world to work Can't wait to see the next update! Edited July 22, 2020 by Lemonstein Basta, Sakai and chuck540z3 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kagemusha Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 Really nice work Chuck, very instructive too, thanks. Enjoy your break, I forgot it's summer. chuck540z3 and Sakai 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Molitor Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 34 minutes ago, Kagemusha said: Really nice work Chuck, very instructive too, thanks. I couldn't agree more. Surgically clean modeling going on here! Troy chuck540z3 and Sakai 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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