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SH Tempest Mk V "Kicked Up A Notch". January 14/21 New eBook!


chuck540z3

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Thanks guys!

 

12 hours ago, Grunticus said:

Very clean build and I will follow this. I just pre-ordered the Revell incarnation of this kit because of this thread.

 

Very interesting.  I did not know that there was a Revell version of this same kit, which begs the following questions:

 

1)  Why?  If Special Hobby is still selling this kit, why would they let Revell sell it as well- for a cheaper price.  Are they getting out of making it completely?

 

2)  Does the Revell kit have all the resin, PE and other stuff found in the SH kit?

 

My guess is that it's the original SH kit with no resin or other improvements, so it should sell for a cheaper price.  Anybody know?  If it's true, I highly recommend the SH kit instead.  I have compared all the resin parts to the original parts on the sprues and they are well worth the extra money.  The fabric seat belts, PE, masks and other items are nice to have as well.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

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16 minutes ago, chuck540z3 said:

Thanks guys!

 

 

Very interesting.  I did not know that there was a Revell version of this same kit, which begs the following questions:

 

1)  Why?  If Special Hobby is still selling this kit, why would they let Revell sell it as well- for a cheaper price.  Are they getting out of making it completely?

 

2)  Does the Revell kit have all the resin, PE and other stuff found in the SH kit?

 

My guess is that it's the original SH kit with no resin or other improvements, so it should sell for a cheaper price.  Anybody know?  If it's true, I highly recommend the SH kit instead.  I have compared all the resin parts to the original parts on the sprues and they are well worth the extra money.  The fabric seat belts, PE, masks and other items are nice to have as well.

 

Cheers,

Chuck


I'm sure it will the same as what Revell did when they reboxed the Italeri Mirage IIIE kit.  Just the plastic.  No PE, resin, or other non-plastic goodies.

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  • 3 weeks later...

August 13/20

 

I’m back for a couple of days, so I had a chance to do a little modeling and the update below.  Before I glue anything inside the Barracuda nose piece, I need to attend to the exhausts, which are CMK resin ones I purchased separately.  As you will see below, they are much better than the kit ones, but like all resin parts, they need to be cut off casting blocks with a razor saw.  While the top exhaust shroud can be crudely cut because it won’t show later, the exhaust stacks themselves must be cut very carefully in order to retain the bolt detail at the base of each exhaust.

 

 

esJUgF.jpg

 

 

The best way to do this is to cut off close to the base like the part on the left, then carefully sand off the remaining resin like the one on the right.

 

 

62f9qZ.jpg

 

 

Here’s the resin part on the right compared to the kit part on the left.  No contest!

 

 

Ipadkj.jpg

 

 

Note that I did not cut out the small openings within each stack, because you will never see them after they are installed.  For the SH kit with the exposed engine, this detail should obviously be cleaned up.

 

 

aLuFgE.jpg

 

 

Unfortunately, the CMK exhausts are much too long for both the kit and Barracuda exhaust openings.  Checking the kit parts, they are a bit too long as well, so adjustments need to be made.

 

 

Nx4jc8.jpg

 

 

The rear of the exhaust opening should be sanded at an angle to widen it by about 2 mm.

 

 

1y0KLk.jpg

 

 

For reference, the resin exhaust shrouds are deeper than the kit parts, to accommodate the longer exhausts.

 

 

MgXaih.jpg

 

 

Before painting, I looked around for a working Napier Sabre engine to see what the exhaust staining should look like.  Very surprising to me, there isn’t one and there are very few Hawker Tempest V or Typhoon survivors to use for references.  Even the ones I found were either cleaned up or horror of horrors, painted with camo paint!  Blasphemy!

 

Since these exhausts look similar to the “fish-tail” exhausts I used on my Spitfire Mk IX build, which did have a lot of working references, I decided to paint them in a similar fashion.  For these exhausts, they should look like mottled steel with some reddish oxidation, with the aft 5 stacks with a whitish exhaust residue staining.  The front exhaust is not stained this way for obvious reasons.  Here’s my Spitfire once again to show what I mean.

 

 

Aud3Uf.jpg

 

 

To do this, I start with a gloss coat of black lacquer followed by Alclad Steel.  That nice slightly rough finish is due to the resin and how I painted the Steel.

 

 

EF6P8Q.jpg

 

 

Next, I paint on a salt in warm water solution, which is similar to salt weathering except there are no salt crystals to begin with, which would be too harsh of a contrast on these small parts.  With salt dissolved in water, new crystallization occurs in a random pattern, which is what you want.

 

 

D37BwZ.jpg

 

 

After the salt crystals dried, I sprayed a very thin coat of Rust or Burnt Sienna enamel, to replicate oxidation.  Here I overdid it a bit, because much of it will be removed later.

 

 

kpCV5f.jpg

 

 

After the paint dried for about 15 minutes, I scrubbed off the salt with water on a micro-brush, followed by the application of Tamiya pastels in white (Snow), to replicate the exhaust staining.

 

 

UGgwN0.jpg

 

 

A close-up with the stack placed within the shroud, which has been painted Steel inside.  I think I might have nailed the correct look, but who will ever know without a working engine?

 

 

wul0eu.jpg

 

 

With that fun project out of the way, I painted the front radiator lightly with Alclad Aluminum, being careful to retain some of the black background for contrast, then glued it in place.  The front circular vent is only dry fit so that I can remove it before painting.

 

 

1iYjO5.jpg

 

 

Same with the rear radiator parts, while the ramp and rear tube were painted according to some references, with the rear left gloss black to match the rest of the fuselage once it is painted with it’s first coat.

 

 

yttxtd.jpg

 

o3khwf.jpg

 

 

Exhaust shroud glued into place.

 

 

6b0MWM.jpg

 

 

And the exhaust stacks dry fit, which will be installed at the end of the build.  Not bad…

 

 

o4Rg0e.jpg

 

9DFAcq.jpg

 

 

I’m off again for a week or two, but the next step is the landing gear wells that fit into the wings.  I hear these are a problem, so I’ll soon find out what the issues are- and how to fix them!

 

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Edited by chuck540z3
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18 minutes ago, Dragon said:

Wow, fantastic work on those exhausts! They look the real deal.

 

Enjoying another great build! 

 

Thanks Mike.  If you squint at my Sig Pic, many of those OOP red decals are the ones you sent me several months ago.  Again thank you for your kindness.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

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Thanks you everyone!

 

28 minutes ago, Anthony in NZ said:

Absolutely loving this Chuck, and taking lots of notes for my own build....

 

Oh and P.S. I am enjoying your Phantom build from a few years ago, there are some great tips in there I am finding for my FGR.2

 

Yeah, your Mosquito with 8 exhaust stacks should be a blast!  I just love how each exhaust tip looks different, thanks to the salt crystals.

 

Although my F-4E is quite different from your FGR.2, there are still many similarities that should be modified, like wingtip angle, outer pylon placement, titanium panels and lots of other things I have long since forgotten.  Another similarity is that I had Scott Wilson along for the ride as my Wingman to help with details, while it looks like Derek B is helping you in the same way.  We are both much better modelers for all their help!

 

Cheers,

Chuck

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