SH Tempest Mk V "Kicked Up A Notch". January 14/21 New eBook!

[scimitarf1]

Love the Tempest. The SH kit is a beauty - I have four in the stash.

 

One thing that I have seen on a few builds is incorrect dihedral. The upper surfaces of the Inner wings are essentIally horizontal (there is a slight and really indistinguishable taper in thickness). The dihedral is on the outer wing panels. There is absolutely no anhedral.

I think the problem is the fuselage being slightly too wide and pushing out the upper halves of the wings.

 

Looking forward to this one

 

Will

[chuck540z3]

Thank you everyone!  This puts a little pressure on me which I need right now with all this pandemic.

 

8 minutes ago, scimitarf1 said:

Love the Tempest. The SH kit is a beauty - I have four in the stash.

 

One thing that I have seen on a few builds is incorrect dihedral. The upper surfaces of the Inner wings are essentIally horizontal (there is a slight and really indistinguishable taper in thickness). The dihedral is on the outer wing panels. There is absolutely no anhedral.

I think the problem is the fuselage being slightly too wide and pushing out the upper halves of the wings.

 

Looking forward to this one

 

Will

 

 

Thanks for the tip Will and I will pay close attention to that.  If anybody else has some tips for this kit, please let me know so that we can create a "how to" thread, which I like to do.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

[zaxos345]

I will, for sure, pay close attention Chuck!!!!!

John

 

[dennismcc]

One of my favourite subjects and I have 3 kits in the stash (1 SH and 2 PCM) so this should be a very informative ride for me.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[airscale]

yum yum - I can't wait to see this!

 

Love the Tempest - so brutish (and British)..

 

Peter

[Thunnus]

Oh goody... A WW2 fighter from your hands!  This should be very entertaining and educational to watch.  Always impressed with your builds and how thoroughly you document the process.  

[Dpgsbody55]

I'll be following this too, especially as I have one in my stash and was always going to build it in the same markings.  Show me the way!! 

 

 

Cheers,

Michael

 

[Kaeone57]

NIIIICCCEEE!!!!

[Rocat]

I am here because many decades ago I went through The Big Show again and again...

 

I can't wait to see this favourite aircraft of mine being Kicked Up A Notch by one of the greatest Modellers around!

[MikeMaben]

On 4/29/2020 at 2:21 PM, scimitarf1 said:

 The upper surfaces of the Inner wings are essentIally horizontal (there is a slight and really indistinguishable taper in thickness). The dihedral is on the outer wing panels. There is absolutely no anhedral.

 

Like the Hurricane.

I have the Barracuda noses too but can't tell what was wrong with the first.

 Have fun Chuck.

 

 

[scimitarf1]

I read in an account that towards the end of the war some aircraft had water/methanol injection in their engines pushing power to 2800hp.

 

The Sabre engine is fascinating in itself. A museum near me at Brenzett - close to a WW2 Tempest airfield - has one from a crash site. It is compact c/w say a Griffon. It has one of the highest power rating per cc of any ww2 engine due to the higher rpm it ran at.

 

If the war had gone on there would have been versions giving over 3000hp. Put that  in your TA152 pipe and smoke it!

 

Will

[chuck540z3]

May 3/20

 

Thanks guys!  That’s a lot of comments- and a lot of pressure, so I’ll try to do a good job.

 

After several hours of rescribing and adding rivet detail, both fuselage halves are now ready to accept cockpit parts.  After reviewing the instructions and sprue parts as thoroughly, a number of things about this kit stand out to me:

 

• The registration on the faces of all parts are excellent
• Pin marks are mostly on the sprue frames rather than the parts, like they should be, but
• Seam lines are everywhere and sometimes quite thick
• The instructions are both good and bad.  More on that later
• Cockpit detail is excellent
• Without a detailed engine or movable control surfaces, this model isn’t all that complicated
• The sprues are obviously made for several different versions of Typhoons and Tempests, since many parts are not used.  The included resin parts replace some of them with added detail, which is excellent
• Like all cockpits, you will need references to make sense of the instructions

 

Here is Sprue “I”, which has most of the cockpit parts.  Note all the deleted parts, including 3 different joy stick top rings, which are replaced by a 4^th resin one.

 

 

 

 

The spruce itself.  Mostly crisp and clean, but lots of seam marks on the sides of every single part.

 

 

 

 

An example of the instructions for Step 12.  You really need to follow all those lines carefully to figure out where everything attaches and it would seem, everything should be glued together solidly.

 

 

 

 

However, later in Step 15, those outside cockpit cage walls are free-floating again, so one better be careful to not glue the rear parts too solidly in Step 12?

 

 

 

 

The paint guide really bugs me, because the labels make no sense in either language, and why all green droplets, which is confusing.  If they can show red and yellow parts, why not a red droplet or yellow one?

 

 

 

 

Despite my complaints above, this appears to be a really good kit overall, so we’ll see.  It’s not up there with a modern Tamiya kit, but it blows away my last 2 Kitty Hawk kits already.

 

The inside of the fuselage has 3 big pin marks, but only the central one needs to be eliminated, since the outer ones will be hidden.  Even my Tamiya Spitfire had 4 of them to be removed, so this is nothing.

 

 

 

 

And since the instructions are a bit confusing and I have to navigate them anyway, I’m going to do something I’ve never done before:  A Step by Step Guide!  From Step 1 to Step 46, I will show each step and how I did them, although some of the steps are not required.  I’m also going to show how I do my cockpits in detail, also step by step, since I have had a request for same and I love doing them.  Here are some of my past efforts at the bottom of a thread started by Uncarina for those who might be interested.

 

 

LSP Cockpits

 

 

On all my recent cockpits I have been spraying them with gloss black first.  This is not really "black basing" as some describe this technique, but it does accomplish the following:

 

 1)  The black color creates natural shadows when the interior green is sprayed from above at an angle.

 2)  Many of the cockpit components are black anyway, especially the front instrument panel.

 3)  As with a primer, the black reveals flaws that can be fixed early and repainted.

 4)  I generally use a lot of instrument and placard decals, so the gloss finish is a perfect surface

 5)  Gloss black with dull coat is a lot smoother than ordinary flat black paint. 

 6)  Liquid masks can be removed from a gloss surface much easier than a dull and flat finish.

 

So let’s start with Step 1, the right side of the cockpit side walls.  For reference, “PUR” are resin parts and “PE” are photo-etch.

 

 

 

 

I’m not sure what those clamp-like PE17 parts are for (flare holders?), but there are 6 of them and only 5 spots to glue them to.  Checking references, I count 6 of them, so I used them all.  PE 14 was also glued into place, as were I61 and I63, since they will all be Black.  There were heavy seam lines on all parts that needed to be sanded off.

 

 

 

 

Step 2, the left side.

 

 

 

 

Here I attached everything, except for I26 and D16, which will be Aluminum and Light Brown, respectively, so they will be painted and attached later.  BTW, I26 is often Black, but I'm going with Aluminum for more contrast on a Black background.

 

 

 

 

Step 3, the left cockpit cage.  Lots of “PUR” resin here.

 

 

 

 

Here there is an instruction error, because this side is "I2" and not "I1" as indicated, which is for the other side and there were seam lines everywhere which took a lot of time to remove where they will be seen.  Looking at the pic, I need to remove some more!

 

Here I left off wheel PUR4, since it will be painted Red Brown, but also the throttle control with 4 resin parts, because it is so fragile.  I’m guessing I will be attaching it permanently at the end of the build to avoid breakage.  Note that I also added a pin to foot pedal(?) I69, which will be painted Bright Red, but it has no natural attachment point to the cage despite a large circular recess for this part.  With the pin I can paint it and just slide it on later.

 

 

 

 

Step 4, the right cage parts.   I2 should be I1.

 

 

 

 

Here I left off foot pedal I68 like the other side and handles I7, which will be yellow, but I also left off I30 and I68, only because they will be difficult to paint when installed.

 

 

 

 

So that’s it for now and likely another few weeks.  I’m headed to my cabin for a while to get away from all this virus turmoil and hopefully experience a bit of normalcy.  Crazy times indeed.

 

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Edited May 3, 2020 by chuck540z3

[leitch]

Check the numbering on the wheel well rear insert, I believe the rear most parts are numbered wrong, has you put the right one in the left side and vise versa.

 

Andy

[chuck540z3]

14 minutes ago, leitch said:

Check the numbering on the wheel well rear insert, I believe the rear most parts are numbered wrong, has you put the right one in the left side and vise versa.

 

Andy

 

Sorry, not sure what you mean?  H19 vs H20?

Edited May 3, 2020 by chuck540z3

[leitch]

The wheel wells are made up of 5? walls  which make up the wells, its the front walls that are reversed in the instructions. I believed they are pictured right just numbered wrong.

 

 

Andy