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GDW

1998 Shelf of Doom Rescue (1/48 Hasegawa Bf109F)

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Posted (edited)

Here's a easy method for painting a leather head rest or leather boot at the base of a control column. Base coat with acrylic burnt sienna. After it dries, paint the leather area with raw umber oil paint, straight out of the tube, unthinned. Then, with a clean flat brush, start to remove the oil paint, wiping off the paint from the brush so that you are removing the oil paint from the surface of the work. The lighter color underneath will begin to show through at the high points, while the recessed areas will remain darker. The more paint that is removed, the more the undercoat will show through. At any point, more raw umber can be added to areas you feel need to be darker. There will be some back and forth, adding and removing paint until you are happy with the effect. 

 

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Model Master Acryl, Burnt Sienna base coat.

 

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Raw Umber, straight from the tube.

 

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The excess oil paint has been wiped away creating a filter, tinting the whole piece. Where the oil paint is very thin, a highlight appears. Where there is more pigment, a shadow is created.

 

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I used this technique on some equipment for a 1:16 Verlinden figure. All the leather straps and the holster were painted the same way as the head rest.

 

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Edited by GDW

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Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, mustang1989 said:

Good technique!! I'll have to give that a try.

 

I think it is a great technique that gets a good result quickly, once you have figured it out. Also, it helps to let the oil paint dry on the model before beginning to wipe it away. More so for artists oils than Abtietilung 502. Try letting it sit for 45 min. before removal. However, I did not let the oil paint dry before removing it in my headrest example but it does give someone trying it out for the first time a little more control. I use AK Interactive Odorless Thinner or Ammo of Mig Odorless Thinner to clean up the over painted areas that always occur with this method. The oil paint gets spread around when removing it but it cleans up easily with the odorless thinner. The odorless thinner dries fast too.

 

I have enjoyed experimenting with this. Try doing black leather as well. Start with brown and then paint over it with black oil paint. Brown and black leather are good for perfecting the technique. Once you begin to like the results your getting, try something like red or green leather. 

 

Greg

Edited by GDW

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Nice work all round going on here Greg!

 

This is turning into a little beauty.

 

Cheer's,

Jeff.

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52 minutes ago, JT68 said:

Nice work all round going on here Greg!

 

This is turning into a little beauty.

 

Cheer's,

Jeff.

 

 

Hi Jeff, nice to hear from somebody down under, thanks for the compliment!

 

We will see how well I do with the paint job shortly. I am pretty rusty regarding free hand camouflage jobs, so time to get the paint mule out. Most of my airbrushing is done with a Badger 150 but recently, I picked up a Mr. Hobby PS-770 which I am looking forward to using in a big way on this. 

 

Greg

 

 

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On 7/8/2020 at 4:48 PM, mustang1989 said:

Pullin' out all the stops on this build aren'tcha? This is really turning into a winner.....QU

If memory serves me correctly doesn't Verlinden do something along those lines? 

 

Yes, thanks for reminding me! Just looked it up. Although it is designed for the Hasegawa Bf 109E3 E4/7 kit, it does include the add on armor in photoetch. 

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1 hour ago, GDW said:

 

Yes, thanks for reminding me! Just looked it up. Although it is designed for the Hasegawa Bf 109E3 E4/7 kit, it does include the add on armor in photoetch. 

 

I was thinkin there was somethin' available. :D

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Posted (edited)

Canopy masked and sprayed with Humbrol 111.

 

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Edited by GDW

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Posted (edited)

  Paint! RLM 76 is on the airframe. This session was especially nice because I have a new spray booth, which I'm sorry to say took me way to long to buy. Should have bought it years ago. All of the models I have posted on LSP were painted with Tamiya acrylics under the ceiling fan in my bathroom. Not a good set up. Now I can airbrush enamel and lacquer products until my heart's content. It's a game changer which makes using an airbrush much more enjoyable.

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The stand is a soldering jig stuck to a plastic box with double sided tape. This way I can turn and rotate the model without touching it. A needle file inserted into brass tube is held by the clamps. The file rotates in the tube while the clamp keeps the file stationary.

 

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Edited by GDW

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