1998 Shelf of Doom Rescue (1/48 Hasegawa Bf109F/G-2) FINISHED and RFI

[Gazzas]

Much better looking pitot!

[Greg W]

On 7/1/2020 at 9:12 PM, Gazzas said:

Much better looking pitot!

 

Yes, much better looking and stronger.

Edited July 4, 2020 by GDW

[Greg W]

Moving along with a few more things showing some progress. The spinner, propeller blades and the landing gear have been base coated. The spinner, wheel well doors and MLG have also had a couple applications of Flory Models Dark Dirt Wash.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 3, 2020 by GDW

[Greg W]

My cell phone just does not want to show the black green of the propeller blades (Tamiya XF-27). I put one of the main gear wheels (XF-1) next to a prop for comparison.

 

Edited July 3, 2020 by GDW

[Greg W]

The model up on its legs, which are only dry fitted at the moment. The windscreen and rear portion of the canopy were glued on with Tamiya Extra Thin Cement and some dabs of Mr. Surfacer 500 can be seen applied to the Sprue attachment points on the canopy frames. Also, I've airbrushed some thin Tamiya flat black over the exhausts. The rust shades were too bright for me, now they look more soot covered, like heated metal rather than a rusty barrel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 4, 2020 by GDW

[Greg W]

 

One of the last things to be done before painting, is fix up the wing tip position lights. The recessions outlining the lights have been mostly sanded away. A section of each wing tip, larger than the light, was removed with a fine saw. I cut two oversized pieces of clear plastic sprue and created three flat sides on each one. After drilling a hole for the light in both pieces, I painted the openings with Tamiya clear red and green. All mating surfaces were colored with a black Sharpie marker. A square section of plastic strip was glued to the front of each clear piece so that there is enough material available in order to reshape the wing tip.

 

It looks pretty rough but it will sand out nicely. The outline of the lights will be restored by masking.

 

 

 

 

 

Everything glued in place with liberal amounts of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement.

 

 

Edited July 5, 2020 by GDW

[Greg W]

Edited July 5, 2020 by GDW

[Greg W]

After 24 hours, the chunky bits were sanded initially with a course sanding stick, just to hog off excess material. The final shaping was done with a 400 grit sanding stick, followed by sanding with 600 and 800. The final sanding and polishing was done with a green/white Flory Models polishing stick.

 

 

Edited July 6, 2020 by GDW

[Greg W]

In my collection of paint, I have some RLM 74 and RLM 75 but no RLM 76. I looked up some recipes for RLM 76 online, using Tamiya acrylics and found two that I wanted to mix up and try. The first was a 60:40 mix of XF-23 Light Blue and XF-2 Flat White, which I airbrushed onto the drop tank. I haven't bothered with the other because upon comparison with the Eagle Editions color chart, the 60:40 XF-23 : XF-2 color is a good match. Job done, don't have to buy any!

 

 

Edited July 6, 2020 by GDW

[Greg W]

I really thought I was going to spend a lot more time painting today but before any color could pass through my airbrush, I needed to spend some time removing scuff marks from the canopy sections that had bounced around loose in the box for twenty odd years. Amazingly, like so many things with this charmed kit, the initial appearance of the clear parts made things seem worse than they were. Upon close inspection, there were no bad, deep scratches. There was however, lots of light scuff marks, both on the interior and exterior of every clear part in the box. After a long but pleasant polishing session, listening to music and increasingly feeling better and better, because of how nicely the parts were turning out, I was able to completely set aside my concerns associated with the condition of the cockpit glass. And yes, some paint was sprayed too - just a little.

 

All the main bits, polished up.

 

 

Edited July 8, 2020 by GDW

[Greg W]

The version I'm doing, has the armored glass in front of the windscreen.

 

 

 

Bare Metal Foil was used on the outside, Tamiya tape on the inside of the middle portion of the canopy. I used Humbrol Matt 111 to simulate RLM 66. I remember now, that is the color I base coated the Aries cockpit with. Painting the opening part of the canopy and the armored plate behind the pilots head was as far as I got (painting wise) but it was a very productive day at the bench. 

 

 

Edited July 8, 2020 by GDW

[Greg W]

Is there a aftermarket photoetch armored glass upgrade for a 1/48 Bf109F windscreen? 

Edited July 8, 2020 by GDW

[mustang1989]

Pullin' out all the stops on this build aren'tcha? This is really turning into a winner.....QUICK!! 

 

14 hours ago, GDW said:

Is there a aftermarket photoetch armored glass upgrade for a 1/48 Bf109F windscreen? 

 

If memory serves me correctly doesn't Verlinden do something along those lines? 

[Greg W]

This can look good... but I think a photoetch replacement would be better.

 

 

Edited July 10, 2020 by GDW

[Greg W]

Here's a easy method for painting a leather head rest or leather boot at the base of a control column. Base coat with acrylic burnt sienna. After it dries, paint the leather area with raw umber oil paint, straight out of the tube, unthinned. Then, with a clean flat brush, start to remove the oil paint, wiping off the paint from the brush so that you are removing the oil paint from the surface of the work. The lighter color underneath will begin to show through at the high points, while the recessed areas will remain darker. The more paint that is removed, the more the undercoat will show through. At any point, more raw umber can be added to areas you feel need to be darker. There will be some back and forth, adding and removing paint until you are happy with the effect. 

 

 

Model Master Acryl, Burnt Sienna base coat.

 

 

Raw Umber, straight from the tube.

 

 

 

The excess oil paint has been wiped away creating a filter, tinting the whole piece. Where the oil paint is very thin, a highlight appears. Where there is more pigment, a shadow is created.

 

 

I used this technique on some equipment for a 1:16 Verlinden figure. All the leather straps and the holster were painted the same way as the head rest.

 

 

 

 

Edited July 9, 2020 by GDW