dodgem37 Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 Very nice, John. The larger of the two hatches here toward the left, should have a 'push-button' disc on it. The one forward, on the cowling, also. You'll notice about 10 of them, maybe 12, on the wing bottoms, and 4 of them underneath on the fuselage, south of the tear-drop shaped retaining nut cap. These 'push-buttons' can be found on the two hatches at the port wing root. One hatch has 2, the other 1. In case you're interested. Sincerely, Mark Thunnus and Landrotten Highlander 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Vincent Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, dodgem37 said: Very nice, John. The larger of the two hatches here toward the left, should have a 'push-button' disc on it. The one forward, on the cowling, also. You'll notice about 10 of them, maybe 12, on the wing bottoms, and 4 of them underneath on the fuselage, south of the tear-drop shaped retaining nut cap. These 'push-buttons' can be found on the two hatches at the port wing root. One hatch has 2, the other 1. In case you're interested. Sincerely, Mark They are not really disc push buttons but the end of release lock is raised and serrated : Edited June 18, 2020 by Vincent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted June 19, 2020 Author Share Posted June 19, 2020 Per Vincent K's comment on the brake lines, I've made adjustments. The fit of the wings wasn't as good as on the Hasegawa K-4 build and I had to do a bit of wrasslin' to minimize the gaps. The flexing of the wings during the attachment process jarred loose both canvas liners in the wheel wells. I kinda like the look without them in place so I might just leave them off. I'll spend at least the next few days filling and sanding the wing joints to get them to look presentable. MikeMaben, Greg W, scvrobeson and 12 others 15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 (edited) Very nice. 'They are not really disc push buttons but the end of release lock is raised and serrated :' I know. I simplified my description. Sincerely, Mark Edited June 19, 2020 by dodgem37 109, Thunnus and Troy Molitor 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaconroot Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 Again always enjoy the updates. Your work continues to amaze me. Jim Root Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 Excellent. Guess they couldn't make it too easy for you by making it fit perfectly. Matt Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 Love the work going on here, John! Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted June 22, 2020 Author Share Posted June 22, 2020 Thanks for checking in! We're getting closer to the painting stage. I think I can add the base for the DF loop antenna as Hartmann's machine only has the base and not the loop. I've been working on the wing/fuselage joints and have gotten them very close to the acceptable stage. I've painted the masked clear parts in RLM 66 Dark Grey. I'll go over this with black just to ensure that the frames are 100% opaque. I'm really liking the Mr Primer Surfacer 1000. It sprays much much better than the plain Mr Surfacer 1000... give it a shot if you need a primer. The tail stabilizers are checked for fit. Since they fit very well, I like leaving them off to simplify the painting process. Just a few minor touchups to the wing/fuselage joints and she'll be ready for painting. I've painted the interiors of the landing gear doors and clamshell flaps so that I can paint the exteriors at the same time as the main aircraft. I experimented with using a random splatter template to create some staining effects. Kahunaminor, Kais, dodgem37 and 13 others 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Molitor Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 I like the splatter pre-shade, nice staining effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 The effect is really nice! Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale32 Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 Noice! Cheers Bevan Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted June 27, 2020 Author Share Posted June 27, 2020 Back to work on the G-14! In preparation for painting, I've treated the wing root fairing in a sandy color as they were commonly made of wood. I've sprayed the wing root area with hairspray to do some chipping after the base camo colors are established. I've had some difficulty using this technique on AK Real Colors paints so we'll just have to see how it goes. If I don't get any chipping at this stage, that's fine as the white will cover much of this anyway. While the hairspray dries, I'm going to preshade the other external components. All of the preshading is black. First, the panel lines. Next is the mottle to establish some tonal variation. I've decided not to mottle the upper surfaces as the white wash is going to cover it anyway. There are other ways I can establish some tonal variation in post painting. The first color to applied is RLM 76 Light Blue. I am using the AK Real Color Version 2 of this shade, thinned with Tamiya Acrylic Thinner thinned with 2 parts thinner for 1 part paint. Thin mixes are key using this preshading technique. The color is built up slowly, layer by layer, dialing in the amount of preshading that is desired. The light blue is extended up onto the fuselage sides. After the light blue is finished, the upper camo is painted. Again, I'm using AK Real Colors versions of RLM 74 and RLM 75 for the upper camo. Like the RLM 76, the RLM 75 is thinned 2:1. For whatever reason, the RLM 74 worked better with an even thinner 3:1 mix. During painting, I've discovered that some of the wing joints and vertical tail joint have cracked. So I've re-glued them and will perform some clean-up before proceeding. Next will be mottling on the fuselage. Wackyracer, TAG, Kagemusha and 11 others 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lothar Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 (edited) Even at this early painting stage she already looks like a contest winner Lothar Edited June 27, 2020 by Lothar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 Good show. Appreciate the show-and-tell. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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