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1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G-14 Hartmann Double Chevron


Thunnus

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I've painted the prop blades, complete with white overspray from the spinner.  I'm hesitant on doing these types of imperfections because it can look like sloppy modeling as opposed to historical accuracy.
IMG-8320.jpg

 

The previously spiraled spinner is now given an overcoat of white.  I'm leaving a little bit more of the spiral visible, taking into account that the flat coat will help tone down the contrast.
IMG-8324.jpg

 

Here's the spinner with the prop blades temporarily stuck into place.  I'll need to apply some weathering the spinner but the dark wash and flat coat are on.
IMG-8329.jpg
IMG-8331.jpg

 

The Eduard masks for the clear parts have been put on and I've glued the clear parts into place.
IMG-8326.jpg
IMG-8327.jpg

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Guest Vincent
On 6/11/2020 at 7:14 PM, Thunnus said:

Could it possibly be that the Hasegawa part is too narrow?  Anyways... I've done what I've done and I am ok with it.

 

Out of curiosity I went to measure the real fairing. It is 600mm wide, which translates to 18,75mm in 1/32. Hasegawa part is 18,65mm so neglectable difference

 

Barracuda part is, as i stated, too wide

 

;)

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IMG-8329.jpg

 

I'm curious. Why would a fairing that was painted black and white, then poorly oversprayed in white (which I think is a bold and effective step) have every rivet and fixing perfectly clear and black?

 

I take it you've got a picture of the real aeroplane showing it

 

Richard

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1 hour ago, RLWP said:

IMG-8329.jpg

 

I'm curious. Why would a fairing that was painted black and white, then poorly oversprayed in white (which I think is a bold and effective step) have every rivet and fixing perfectly clear and black?

 

I take it you've got a picture of the real aeroplane showing it

 

Richard

 

I don't know.  Maybe because that is how I chose to represent it?  As a modeler, I have that choice, do I not?  And no I I'm not basing this from a photo of the real aircraft since existing photos of Double Chevron are poor and lack the resolution to show that level of detail.  Just curious... Am I breaking some sort of rule?

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Remember one thing : when the Erla canopy is closed without being locked (which would be the case if you don't add a pilot), the antenna wire will be sagging. The wire got tensionned by the canopy locking lever

 

Just so that you don't forget !

 

Vincent

 

 

 

Hi, I think Vincent was talking about the this type of Erla canopy with short wood antenna mast on it 

you can see the antenna wire attached to the canopy lock. 

Erla-canopy-antenna-wire-tension-LI.jpg 

 

The top of antenna mast has a pulley with cover similar to the top of Fw 190 with flat canopyErla-canopy-with-pully-antenna-mast-2-LI   

 

Regards,

Matsu.

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1 hour ago, Thunnus said:

 

I don't know.  Maybe because that is how I chose to represent it?  As a modeler, I have that choice, do I not? 

 

This is the one correct answer, it's your model to build as you choose

 

It just seemed an odd thing to do - on the other hand building model aeroplanes is pretty odd in the first place. And I do that

 

Richard

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2 hours ago, Shiba said:

Remember one thing : when the Erla canopy is closed without being locked (which would be the case if you don't add a pilot), the antenna wire will be sagging. The wire got tensionned by the canopy locking lever

 

Just so that you don't forget !

 

Vincent

 

 

 

Hi, I think Vincent was talking about the this type of Erla canopy with short wood antenna mast on it 

you can see the antenna wire attached to the canopy lock. 

Erla-canopy-antenna-wire-tension-LI.jpg 

 

The top of antenna mast has a pulley with cover similar to the top of Fw 190 with flat canopyErla-canopy-with-pully-antenna-mast-2-LI   

 

Regards,

Matsu.

 

Thank you for that illustrative explanation, Matsu!  Very helpful!  This particular machine that I am modeling had no antenna mast so I don't have to worry about a slack antenna line (which can be tricky to portray).

 

 

1 hour ago, RLWP said:

 

This is the one correct answer, it's your model to build as you choose

 

It just seemed an odd thing to do - on the other hand building model aeroplanes is pretty odd in the first place. And I do that

 

Richard

 

Thank you sincerely for not taking undue offense at my answer.  It may be odd but given the use of recessed grooves to impart surface details to plastic models, I choose to fill them with a wash.  Not necessarily to highlight them in all cases but I want to "flatten" them.  Instead of grooves and holes, I want them to be lines and dots.  Since there is a lot of white on this model, I'll have to think about ways to tone down that contrast between the wash and the white.  So your point is noted.

 

 

6 minutes ago, CZPetrP said:

I have to commend you for your work. Looks great.

Perfect.:clap2:

 

Thanks!  Never perfect but she's moving along!

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3 hours ago, RLWP said:

And thank you too John.

 

It's good here, isn't it

 

Richard

 

Yes it is!  I know exactly what you mean and I feel the same way.  Thank you for your understanding!

 

A little pause in model building while I painted a present for a friend that is moving away soon...

 

IMG-8336.jpg

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On 6/11/2020 at 6:19 AM, Thunnus said:

 

Canopy will be closed on this one like most of my builds.  There's a small chance that I would consider showing a sliding canopy in the open position but I don't like spoiling the lines of the 109 with that side-opening canopy.

 

ever considered just not gluing it?

 

i did that on my recent Emil and i quite like the optionality

 

just a thought

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