Beaconroot Posted May 2, 2020 Share Posted May 2, 2020 Wonderful work on the cockpit. Always look forward to your updates. Jim Root Martinnfb and Thunnus 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Molitor Posted May 2, 2020 Share Posted May 2, 2020 Looking good John. I still prefer the Hasegawa 109 kit’s over the Revell offering. The fit is amazing on the Hasegawa kit even if it’s much older than the Revell example. The MDC cockpit is also my favorite go-to aftermarket cockpit. Martinnfb, Thunnus and phasephantomphixer 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrish Posted May 2, 2020 Share Posted May 2, 2020 Always inspiring to see a master at work! Thunnus and Martinnfb 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 (edited) Thanks guys! Slow going on the G-14. Taking my sweet time with it. I've spend alot of time on the fuselage seam. Filling it first and then re-scribing the line separating the right and left halves. Why go through the trouble of removing the joint when you end up re-scribing it? Because it has to look like a panel line and not a glue joint! I'm not precise enough in my cementing process to get a clean line in most cases so this is the only way I can get a relatively neat panel line. I've also finished off the riveting along the joints. The gun cowling, which has also been riveted, is glued into place. Pretty clean with a few gaps that will need to be filled with White Milliput. The characteristic gun bulges have been riveted. I've also scribed a secondary panel line on the bulges to match the fuselage. The bumps have not been glued into place yet. Edited May 4, 2020 by Thunnus Kais, Martinnfb, Wackyracer and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lothar Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 Stunning detail work !! Lothar Martinnfb 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted May 6, 2020 Author Share Posted May 6, 2020 I have a spare supercharger intake from Barracuda but it is for Revell kit and is every so slightly undersized. The kit supercharger fits much better so I've replaced the damaged weld line (Hasegawa stupidly put TWO sprue attachment points on the weld line) with stretched sprue. I've also added some bolt details to the front face of the intake. The gun cowling has been glued into place but there is a slight gap at the rear. It's very narrow and not very noticeable but I like all of my panel lines to have a finite "bottom" for visual consistency. A great way to address these lengthy narrow gaps is Milliput. Milliput is a two-part epoxy that comes in different grades of fineness. I use White which is the finest grade. It has the consistency of clay so it has different uses than liquid putties. You just pinch off two equal sized bits of putty and knead them together until they are one uniform color. I use the tip of a toothpick to apply the putty. Turning the toothpick tip can help force the putty into the crack. Work your way down the crack until it is completely filled. You can take your time because Milliput is a very slow cure epoxy and won't start hardening for at least 30 minutes. This is the stage where most putty applications end. Normally, you can wait until this dries and then start sanding away. But this is where Milliput really shines. Wet your finger and start rubbing along the putty application, Water will cut into the Milliput, simultaneously removing and smoothing the putty. I want to remove the excess so I switch to a piece of damp paper towel and continue to rub down the area. Depending on how aggressive you rub, you can remove the putty until it is level with the surrounding plastic or even below it. This joint is a panel line so I'm not trying to eliminate the gap, just put a consistent bottom to it. After the application, this area will need no further attention. No sanding required. You can do this type of thing with other putties but you may have to use some sort of solvent instead of water. TAG, Peter Browne, scvrobeson and 11 others 10 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrish Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Very handy tutorial on Miliput putty...turns out I didn’t have a clue and wasn’t using it properly at all...I’ll revisit that now that I’ve seen your post, thank you! Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 ^^^^what chrish said...very helpful information! Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Apoxie Sculpt works the same way. I put a teensy bit o' dishsoap in the water to break the surface tension, speads smoother. scvrobeson, Landrotten Highlander and Thunnus 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted May 6, 2020 Author Share Posted May 6, 2020 I decided to give the fuselage a dark wash just to check my riveting work since it was so hard to see. I think I need a new rivet wheel as this one seems dull and does not penetrate the plastic as well as when it was new. I couldn't find any RB Production Rivet-R's in stock so I ordered another brand. LSP_Kevin, dodgem37, Wackyracer and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto21 Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Lovely work again! Out of interest, which riveting tool did you order because I have the same issue with mine and can't find a replacement at the moment. Matt Thunnus and Martinnfb 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Vincent Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 (edited) Hi You should add a line of rivets on the cowl, along the gun port inserts. These (made of steel) were riveted against the rest of the cowl panels Check with picture, you can just make the line of rivets around the gun insert : Vincent Edited May 6, 2020 by Vincent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaeone57 Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Great Work!!!! Wish I possesed the written word and consistent modelling talents you and others show and express. My day will arrive! Lol Great Work John, seriously envious! Alfonso Martinnfb and Thunnus 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted May 6, 2020 Author Share Posted May 6, 2020 Thanks guys! I appreciate you checking in! 14 hours ago, matto21 said: Lovely work again! Out of interest, which riveting tool did you order because I have the same issue with mine and can't find a replacement at the moment. Matt I ordered three sets of riveting wheels from Galaxy Tools from EBay. Standard size, Mini size and the Corner Tool. I got the smaller spacing (0.55mm, 0.65mm and 0.75mm) sets. I noticed a review at The Modeling News site and thought they'd be worth a try since I can't find the RB Rivet-R in stock. https://www.themodellingnews.com/2020/04/build-review-pt-iii-148th-scale-north.html#more MikeMaben, Martinnfb and Antonio Argudo 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonio Argudo Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 (edited) Nice job John, I'm using Rosie the riveter (0.75mm) which is perfect for 1/32, cheers Edited May 6, 2020 by Antonio Argudo Thunnus, Peter Browne, Rocat and 3 others 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now