Pastels and modelling

[Pup7309]

Similar to the oils topic: any recommendations for pastel brands and techniques?

 

Thanks!

[mozart]

Use soft pastels not the oil-based ones. A bit like LRH’s answer to your question about oil paints, the more expensive professional pastels and pastel pencils give a better finish. If you’re using them for weathering etc simply pare off some powder then use a soft brush to apply to the area, most of it will drop off but the subtlety is achieved by that which remains after several applications. Obviously the smoother and shinier the surface the less easily the pastel “sticks”. Hope this helps a little. 

[Greif8]

On 3/27/2020 at 5:38 AM, Pup7309 said:

Similar to the oils topic: any recommendations for pastel brands and techniques?

 

Thanks!

 

The type of pastels you use is related to what you want to use them for Pup.  For example, if you want to use them to simulate exhaust stains you should use an oil based pastel.  As Mozart says above, if using them for other types of weathering non-oil pastels are the weapon of choice.  I use AK Interactive pastels and though are not a true pastel chalk, Tamiya's weathering pastels.  

 

As to techniques, I apply the Tamiya stuff using either a paint brush (an old one!) or the little applicator that comes with each three color case.  I gently rub them on the area(s) I want to weather building up light coats until I have the result I like.  The pastels can be mixed to make different tones, are even different colors.  It is easy to learn to do this and with just a little practice you can generate some great effects.  To apply the AK pastels I either dip an old paint brush into the chalk and apply it dry, or apply it to an area that is damp.

 

For example to simulate a rusted muffler I start by painting it a dark metal rusted shade such as Alclad II Engine exhaust manifold - but any type of paint that has a dark metallic look will work - as will black for that matter.  Once dry I apply the pastels; I generally use three shades each darker then the other.  I start with the darkest and work towards the lightest.  I recommend looking a photos of an actual rusted muffler that is still in use to get an idea of how the shades interface with each other.  If you want to simulate thicker rust you can either dampen the area you are working on with greatly thinned white glue and apply the pastels.  This takes a bit of practice to get down.

 

Simulating powder stains from weapon's fire is quite easy.  Just apply the pastels using the appropriate sized brush to the area to be stained.  I use Tamiya's pastels for the area immediately around the weapan or firing hole and than blend non oil based pastels (AK) outwards to feather the effect into the wind slipstream if required.

 

HTH's,

Ernest 

[Pup7309]

On 3/28/2020 at 6:36 PM, mozart said:

Use soft pastels not the oil-based ones. A bit like LRH’s answer to your question about oil paints, the more expensive professional pastels and pastel pencils give a better finish. If you’re using them for weathering etc simply pare off some powder then use a soft brush to apply to the area, most of it will drop off but the subtlety is achieved by that which remains after several applications. Obviously the smoother and shinier the surface the less easily the pastel “sticks”. Hope this helps a little. 

Sure does! Thanks! Do you seal the pastels?

[Pup7309]

On 3/28/2020 at 7:01 PM, Greif8 said:

 

The type of pastels you use is related to what you want to use them for Pup.  For example, if you want to use them to simulate exhaust stains you should use an oil based pastel.  As Mozart says above, if using them for other types of weathering non-oil pastels are the weapon of choice.  I use AK Interactive pastels and though are not a true pastel chalk, Tamiya's weathering pastels.  

 

As to techniques, I apply the Tamiya stuff using either a paint brush (an old one!) or the little applicator that comes with each three color case.  I gently rub them on the area(s) I want to weather building up light coats until I have the result I like.  The pastels can be mixed to make different tones, are even different colors.  It is easy to learn to do this and with just a little practice you can generate some great effects.  To apply the AK pastels I either dip an old paint brush into the chalk and apply it dry, or apply it to an area that is damp.

 

For example to simulate a rusted muffler I start by painting it a dark metal rusted shade such as Alclad II Engine exhaust manifold - but any type of paint that has a dark metallic look will work - as will black for that matter.  Once dry I apply the pastels; I generally use three shades each darker then the other.  I start with the darkest and work towards the lightest.  I recommend looking a photos of an actual rusted muffler that is still in use to get an idea of how the shades interface with each other.  If you want to simulate thicker rust you can either dampen the area you are working on with greatly thinned white glue and apply the pastels.  This takes a bit of practice to get down.

 

Simulating powder stains from weapon's fire is quite easy.  Just apply the pastels using the appropriate sized brush to the area to be stained.  I use Tamiya's pastels for the area immediately around the weapan or firing hole and than blend non oil based pastels (AK) outwards to feather the effect into the wind slipstream if required.

 

HTH's,

Ernest 

Thanks that’s awesome ! Great advice will try that for exhausts for sure!

[mozart]

5 minutes ago, Pup7309 said:

Sure does! Thanks! Do you seal the pastels?

I never have, it seems counter-intuitive somehow to me, but I guess you could?

[Out2gtcha]

6 hours ago, Pup7309 said:

Sure does! Thanks! Do you seal the pastels?

 

6 hours ago, mozart said:

I never have, it seems counter-intuitive somehow to me, but I guess you could?

 

 

In a way, in the end it kind of is I found. I have experimented with both pastels and Tamiyas weathering pallets, and both similarly do change drastically when sealed with clear. That soft feathered dry look can change to an almost imperceptible change in tone only.  I think the clear ruined (to a lesser degree) the weathering pallets too, and basically removed all of the effects the pastels/pallets were trying to achieve. 

[Woody V]

18 hours ago, Out2gtcha said:

In a way, in the end it kind of is I found. I have experimented with both pastels and Tamiyas weathering pallets, and both similarly do change drastically when sealed with clear. That soft feathered dry look can change to an almost imperceptible change in tone only.  I think the clear ruined (to a lesser degree) the weathering pallets too, and basically removed all of the effects the pastels/pallets were trying to achieve. 

 

The liquid clear lifts the powder and disperses it making it imperceptible. 

[Out2gtcha]

6 hours ago, Archer Fine Transfers said:

 

The liquid clear lifts the powder and disperses it making it imperceptible. 

 

 

Yep, and you can almost instantly tell when you spray any clear on gloss, semi or flat. I'm glad I did some experimentation with that in the beginning, because it only took one instant, about 1/2 a second on the air brush to know you ruined whatever effect you were just trying to achieve. 

[BiggTim]

Some really good tips here, especially those by Ernest. I totally agree 100%.

 

I'll add one tip: the type of brush you use to apply it makes a lot of difference too. If I want just a light dusting effect, I use a long bristled soft brush, and then blow the excess off. If you blow with your mouth, you won't get as much off, if you want more off, use an aircan. 

 

For things like exhausts, where you want a lot of the powder to stay in place, use a soft brush, but cut the bristles way back to about 1/8 or 1/16 inch, this will cause it to rub the pastels into the matte surface more. The shorter you cut them, the more it rubs in. How you apply them, and how you remove the excess makes a huge difference. 

 

These are the brushes I use the most:

 

And, no, I don't put clear over them, ever.

 

Tim

Edited March 31, 2020 by BiggTim

[Greif8]

14 hours ago, BiggTim said:

Some really good tips here, especially those by Ernest. I totally agree 100%.

 

I'll add one tip: the type of brush you use to apply it makes a lot of difference too. If I want just a light dusting effect, I use a long bristled soft brush, and then blow the excess off. If you blow with your mouth, you won't get as much off, if you want more off, use an aircan. 

 

For things like exhausts, where you want a lot of the powder to stay in place, use a soft brush, but cut the bristles way back to about 1/8 or 1/16 inch, this will cause it to rub the pastels into the matte surface more. The shorter you cut them, the more it rubs in. How you apply them, and how you remove the excess makes a huge difference. 

 

These are the brushes I use the most:

 

And, no, I don't put clear over them, ever.

 

Tim

 

Great tips Tim!

[Greif8]

On 3/30/2020 at 11:23 AM, mozart said:

I never have, it seems counter-intuitive somehow to me, but I guess you could?

 

I always do the effects I want with pastels and Tamiya weathering chalks just before installing all the little breakable items.  Of course that means I have to watch where I touch the model closely to avoid an unwanted fingerprint!