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WingNut Wings Camel "Le Rhône"


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Don't take anything in this thread as any example Bevan - I'm still on a learning curve with a lot of the effects I'm trying to re-create - but if others can learn from my mistakes as I make them...

 

Since last photos I've finished the ignition wires - did those with EasyLine and it was actually pretty painless.

 

Iain

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On 2/24/2020 at 4:55 PM, MikeC said:

A nice start.  I've got this particular boxing, so watching with interest.  Have you picked a subject?  I assume you'll be doing one of the kit options?

 

I *was* going to do Option 'C' - the blue 'SUDS' - but now leanIng towards the one on the box lid - Option 'D' - F2137 "U".

 

iain

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Calling the cockpit done now - will post some photos later...

 

Some bits to add to the fuselage and I can close it all up.

 

This is taking waaaay longer than it probably should - but learning some new techniques fast - and subsequent builds are going to be a lot quicker I reckon.

 

Some clever engineering - I think I can now understand why folks are getting hooked on these - if you have any WingNut Wings kits in the stash and have been putting off building them - dive in - the water's nice and warm!  :)

 

Iain

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OK - I failed on the photos yesterday evening - but I did manage to get the fuselage together and, despite previous concerns, everything fitted together perfectly!

 

An awful lot of this won't be seen, but the instruments have clear 'glasses' and the controls are rigged (at least to the back of the cockpit).

 

For the control cables I was doing them with 0.1mm nickel silver wire - but gave up and resorted to fine E Z Line instead.

 

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Have fun - and "Clear Prop!"  :piliot:

 

Iain

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Planning for the ‘fun’ part - the rigging!

 

Need to prep the relevant anchor points on the airframe before any further paint/assembly.

 

British rigging wires of the period were a flattened aero foil section that varied in thickness depending on where it was used on the airframe - so out with an original period rigging wire diagram and specification table so I can match the different photo etched wires produced by Radu in his RB Productions range to the original.

 

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Looking through Bobs Buckles site now - thinking of combining the etched flat wires anchored into some of Bobs eyelets with EZ Line - may all go horribly wrong...

 

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I feel like I’m out-geeking myself with this one - wish me luck!

 

Blue Skies!

 

Iain

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Nice work so far Lain!

 

I have a Camel on order from WNW's, way before all the crisis with the virus and them shutting down, dont know when or if it will ever get to me, but the thing I dread with the build, will be the early installation of those four struts on the cockpit, I cant help but think they will take a few knocks and breakages with me!..lol!

 

Cheer's,

Jeff.

Edited by JT68
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Max,

 

I'd have gone the EZ Line route - which is an awful lot easier - but I've had the stuff (and Prymm elastic) disintegrate over time - models safe in case, no direct sunlight, no extremes of temperature.

 

There's also the issue of colour...

 

Last year I saw a DH9A built by Mark Elliott over on Facebook that used Radu's flat wires - and it really looked the part - so that's been my inspiration.

 

Trick is to allow some flex to allow the etched metal to expand and contract slightly, to prevent them bowing, and so it's the anchorages I'm thinking through/playing with at the moment.

 

But, yes, using these flat wires isn't going to be easy - but I'll wager the result will last longer than EZ Line, or similar.

 

I may be overly concerned with the elastic, admittedly, and I may still end up using it if I can't get the flat wires done successfully...

 

Jeff,

 

Re. those struts - following on from Bob's warning earlier in the thread about this - I'm using the spare wing inner section as a safety stay for these - placed in position it acts as a visual reminder of the struts - as well as sharing the load/mitigating damage if knocked slightly.

 

Iain

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2 hours ago, Iain said:

Jeff,

 

Re. those struts - following on from Bob's warning earlier in the thread about this - I'm using the spare wing inner section as a safety stay for these - placed in position it acts as a visual reminder of the struts - as well as sharing the load/mitigating damage if knocked slightly.

 

Iain

 

Thats good advice Lain, I'll remember that whenever I get around to doing mine.

 

Cheer's,

Jeff.

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  • 4 months later...

OK - so I got a little sidetracked this weekend - and did a bit more on the Camel.

 

I'm now back at option 'C' - the blue 'Suds' - and i can't change my mind again, 'cos me model's now blue!  ;)

 

All tucked up in the paint oven (airing cupboard) for everything to dry - including some fresh oil paint and some *very* glossy MRP Black, ready for some shiny cowling work later this week.

 

I tried using one of the rudder stripe decals - was forewarned that on some of the Camel kits the decals have a marked propensity for breaking up  - so they were soked in hot water in a small container - and separated beautifully.

 

However, I applied several coats of MicroSol and made the mistake of trying to flatten a bubble with a brsh after the decal had been soaking in MicroSol for quite a while - so that broke that!

 

Will spray the rudder stripes - but helps me with getting the next decals right!

 

Also first go at some rib tape masking - and it came out OK - was aiming for a 'hint of subtle' and that's what I got!

 

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Photo is a quickie on mobile phone - will get some better ones tomorrow...

 

And, yes, the blue won't look quite so neat/uniform on the finished model.

 

I can see why people enjoy building these kits - but I'm still dreading the rigging!

 

Blue skies...

 

Iain

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