Jump to content

FW190D-13 Yellow 10 conversion


BiggTim

Recommended Posts

5 hours ago, MikeMaben said:

Got any other 190s ?  Might fit  :shrug:

Fresh out!

52 minutes ago, Out2gtcha said:

 

 

Could you do the old chain-drill out the flat part and apply an acetate substitute? Or not possible where the screw-up is?

Possibly. I will remove it this weekend and see if I can polish out the blemish. I had a glue wicking mishap that screwed up the bottom edge on both sides. Usually does a lot of damage that is hard to get out, but I may try. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Progress made on this, too. Three of the base colors were painted this weekend. Needs a little touch up on the RLM 76, then on to the first layer of green camo. 

20200317-201929.jpg

20200317-201905.jpg

 

When would you guys put suggest that I put on the markings and stencils? The painting guide on the back cover of Crandall's great book is a little misleading. It seems to suggest that the national markings and stencils all go on right after the 76 and 75 colors (stage 1), and get painted over with the camo (stages 2 and 3), BUT then seems to show them clear and sharp AFTER the camo is done. I'm leaning toward putting them all on right after stage 3.

 

12179784894-2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am really looking forward to the final result of your work. Great progress so far! Still I thought it is worth to point out that there is, when it comes to the base camouflage of the D-13, a second opinion deviating from Jerry's work. Obviously I am talking about JaPo's analyse published in Volume 2 of Focke Wulf Fw 190D camouflage and markings. Thanks for publishing the instructions for the Eagle Cals (correct me if I am wrong) here, I haven't seen them before. The main difference between Jerry on one side and JaPo on the other is that JaPo starts with a typical camouflaged Dora (two color schema). I am not sure if there will be a second color on the wings, but even then the fuselage itself should have two colours to start with. As a result of this I assume that all stencils etc were overpainted or left out untouched when the 'final' pattern was applied. Keep in mind that the current form of the D-13 as it is displayed right now is not was Jerry imagined it to be. The pattern are way to thick applied and should be way softer and less pronounced.

 

5.png

6.png

 

7.png

 

8.png

 

9.png

 

10.png

 

4.png

 

3.png

 

2.png1.png

 

All scans were sourced from: JaPo Focke Wulf Fw 190D camouflage and markings Vol. 2

 

@Admins: Please let me know or take down the post if there is an issue publishing the scans.

 

Edited by StefanGebhardt
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you have Jerry Crandall's Dora Volume 2?  It has a detailed analysis of Yellow 10's color scheme that contradicts JaPo's interpretation.  It's based on grey scale analysis of the black and white photos as well as Mr. Crandall's first hand inspection of the Yellow 10 airframe and specifically refutes the use of RLM81 on Yellow 10.  Crandall's Dora book assumes a base camo of 75/76 in contrast to JaPo's 82/81/76.  Both interpretations have merit, IMO so it makes the modeler's choice even more confusing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, Thunnus said:

Do you have Jerry Crandall's Dora Volume 2?  It has a detailed analysis of Yellow 10's color scheme that contradicts JaPo's interpretation.  It's based on grey scale analysis of the black and white photos as well as Mr. Crandall's first hand inspection of the Yellow 10 airframe and specifically refutes the use of RLM81 on Yellow 10.  Crandall's Dora book assumes a base camo of 75/76 in contrast to JaPo's 82/81/76.  Both interpretations have merit, IMO so it makes the modeler's choice even more confusing.

 No, I don't have that book, but I've been digging around and looking at enough sources and photos that I'm comfortable taking a few liberties with it and forging ahead. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Back on this one finally! Does anyone have a good scan of the riveting pattern for a Dora I could snag? I'm debating if I want to do it or not, but I need to see what I'm up against. Thanks!

Tim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, BiggTim said:

Back on this one finally! Does anyone have a good scan of the riveting pattern for a Dora I could snag? I'm debating if I want to do it or not, but I need to see what I'm up against. Thanks!

Tim

 

I can send you a drawings from Kagero Top Drawings No. 3, which I've used as a guide.  Message me your email address.  I also have scale drawings from the Japanese Model Art book on the 190D that I can scan if you need it.

 

However... I would caution against applying rivets at this stage.  It takes some force to poke holes in the plastic and the leverage applied might lead to cracked glue joints or other mishaps.  I like to do it when the parts are unattached and as flat as possible so that I can have as solid base. For example, holding the model to do the fuselage rivets would be very awkward with the wings in the way.  You really need to have the part fixed and stable for riveting, IMO.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...