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Thunnus

1/32 Revell Bf109G-6/AS Hohenjager

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Thanks John! 

 

The fuselage has been riveted.
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A look at the holes cut into the wing bottom for the ammo chutes.
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Here's what the Quickboost guns look like mounted in the cowling.
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The kit wheels look pretty good even compared to the Barracuda resin wheels.  
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Thanks guys!

 

With Damian's replacement legs in place, I can start thinking about the approximate angle that I need to impart onto the tire flat spots.  It doesn't have to be exact.  With the slight play between the tire and the axle and the use of fast setting epoxy, I can let the tires settle into the flat spots as the glue dries.  This is just a looksee before I start sanding the flat spots.
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After thorough research, including measurements from original parts, the axle to strut angle is 99 degrees on the F and G variants. The larger wheel and tire of the G-10 and K-4 required a sleeve to fit over the axle, but the axle/strut angle remained at 99 degrees.

 

Cheers,

 

D.B.

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29 minutes ago, Thunnus said:

Silly me had the landing gear legs reversed.  Damian spotted it and let me know.  Thank you! So I had to make a re-evaluation...
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John

 

Shortening the axle to bring the tire closer to the strut would change the look for the better. I remember you did that with your K-4 build and I do that now with the Hasagawa legs. Looks like it should be done with the Revell axles, too, especially when aftermarket wheels are used. The Revell axle measures out at 99 degrees.

 

HTH,

 

D.B.

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And the angle between the strut and fuselage is built into the attachment tab of the landing gear strut, which I assume is unchanged from the Revell model. 

 

3 hours ago, D.B. Andrus said:

 

John

 

Shortening the axle to bring the tire closer to the strut would change the look for the better. I remember you did that with your K-4 build and I do that now with the Hasagawa legs. Looks like it should be done with the Revell axles, too, especially when aftermarket wheels are used. The Revell axle measures out at 99 degrees.

 

HTH,

 

D.B.

 

Yes. When I drilled out the holes in the wheel, I was careful not to push the drill bit through to the other side and I can make adjustments to get the wheel closer to the strut by either drilling the hole a little bit deeper or to shorten the axle or a combination of two.

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When I was dry-fitting the cockpit to the fuselage, I was using bits of Blue Tack to hold the resin pit into place.  It gave me a little bit of "give" to make minor adjustments.  So I thought I'd permanently attach the cockpit in a similar manner using Milliput instead of Blue Tack. Hmmm... I forgot to take a pic of the buttoned up fuselsage!

Attachment of the resin cowling to the fuselage is coming up so I thought it would be a good time to apply the rivets...
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After cleaning up the fuselage seams, I added a missing panel on the fuselage bottom using a piece of brass sheet as a scribing template.  The shape for template was derived from a scan of a 1/48 scale drawing of a G-6.  The scan was imported into AutoCAD, scaled up to 1/32 scale and a mask file was generated for the Silhouette Portrait.  The mask was stuck onto a piece of brass and cut out with scissors.  Once you get used to a piece of technology, this stuff becomes a bit ho-hum and I didn't record any of it photographically.
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The centerline seam was re-established and riveted.
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