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ICM Gladiator slow build. Finished!


quang

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Thank you all for your kind words.

 

IMPORTANT: drill the entry hole of each and every cable BEFORE assembling the wings. It's vital and also the most tedious part of the process.

 

A few observations about assembling the double wings. A serious modeller would have built a jig to correctly align the dihedral and stagger of the wings.

Always the lazy me, I decided I could do without and tried to dry-fit the upper wing using only the provided wing struts. The whole thing was wobbly and kept collapsing every time even with the judicious advice that the ever resourceful Max Mozart gave me.

5-C951-C4-C-E1-E0-4-D32-AD73-FE1541-D088

 

In the end, I decided to trust ICM and firmly glued the 4 struts to the upper wing. I let the glue dry and harden overnight. The morning after, I offed the upper wing/struts assembly to the lower wing/fuselage and... miracle, IT WORKED! After I checked that everything was tried and true, I glued the wings and added the cabane struts.

D9-DEA7-B9-3712-4972-A784-8741-B95271-F0

 

2306-A547-C6-A3-45-AB-88-AE-13-E47366699

 

3376-CB08-DDEB-483-D-9-F7-F-03-D3-A29350

 

Now it started looking a Glad... and reading to go through the final and dreaded stage: the RIGGING.

As this is my first time, I spent much time studying the different methods and spying the other modellers – including our own Max's work. I tried glues and different materials and never shied away from the odd mad-scientist experiment like this hairy F-9 Panther wing:

8008-F11-F-36-C1-40-C2-A92-D-821-DBE8-AE

 

In conclusion, this is what I will be using for my rigging:

– elastic mono-filament 0,25mm and 0,30mm thread. Prym and unknown make

– end-pieces from Albion Alloys micro-tube 1mm/0,25mm inside

– UV-curing glue

7-CC13520-5-FF8-4-F72-97-D5-08-EEE4-AC45

 

End-pieces are 3mm-long segments of the micro-tube cut using a home-made jig.

351-AB922-6-B37-471-A-A327-59-C156449-D1

 

Thread each length of thread with 2 end-pieces

D2-BC53-F0-77-F8-4503-B1-CB-3-A4-FDC603-

 

Thread the Prym in one entry point. Apply glue.

730-C20-F5-1-F4-B-48-A7-B754-3-C04-BAFA4

 

Attach the other side making sure that the thread is taut. Nothing's worse than a sagging line;

5-CFA1072-98-FF-49-BF-AF3-A-4699431236-C

 

When dry, slide the micro-tubes to each end. And voilà.

99-FF18-FA-7-D20-425-E-8-F30-0983-F8-AE6

 

F463-A1-B6-CC53-4-CC5-B6-E4-92-C30-ACD1-

 

Next time: the finish line.

Until then,

Cheers,

Quang

 

 

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It's easy once you get the hang of it. :P

 

My first try was on the tailplanes. It's not as tidy as the following ones because I tried different types of glue on it to see which one gives the strongest bond. Curiously the CA only worked one time out of 3. At each failure, I had to remove the thread, clean up the receiving hole from the residual glue and start again. Tedious!

To me, the UV-curing glue works best. But of course, YMMV  ;)

 

The elastic thread is a blessing because you can stretch it to meet the two ends.

With the whole wing assembly wobbling and not altogether precise, I can imagine the frustration if one has to do it with rigid thread, let alone a pre-cut, flat, easily-kinked piece of metal photo-etching. The result would be more realistic indeed but I'm curious to see how it can be done.

 

Cheers,

Quang

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:thumbsup:

Good tip, Richard!

 

While it has been quoted 0.15mm for a true in-scale 1/32 cable, the rigging on most 1/32 biplanes –even the WNW– always look a bit skimpy to me.

I find that 0.25mm and even 0.30mm have more 'presence' on a model.

Having said that, it would be interesting to know how the different threads react to the various glues.

 

Quang

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