Brett M Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 14 hours ago, Wackyracer said: Whether any of the below will help John I'm not sure but here's my thoughts... Reverse the process. I think you need to fold the lower section (as you have it laid out) first and start with the inner edge (when assembled). Make the 2 90 degree folds then the vertical height of the upright will show you the angle to fold the sloping edge to allow it all the layflat. The other side can then be folded over, and the spars have 2 90 degree folds made. This. I stared at it for a while and came up with the same idea...then scrolled down and saw the same thought The spars definitely look weird in the instructions with the random arrows, but I think once the lower section is folded into shape, it'll make more sense. Or, use whisky. Out2gtcha, Thunnus and Wackyracer 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 Wow, that is some serious PE work there! Well done on the final conquest John. Looking forward to more Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rigor Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 Pe Flaps are a pain in the a¥£€ but looking the part Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.B. Andrus Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 An origami class at the local junior college should be a requirement before Z-M lets anyone buy those flaps. Cheers, D.B. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted February 19, 2020 Author Share Posted February 19, 2020 Leaving the lower flap origami issue aside, I've moved a little forward with the Tank build. I've decided to add the wing root fillets at this time. Why these need to be separate parts other than to create more messy seams is beyond me. I obviously do not reside in Z-M's target demographic. :wink: I've glued the rudder to the tail unit using 2-part epoxy glue. The molded ribs on the rudder have been sanded down to give a more subtle fabric effect. The molded spars in the upper flap area have been removed in order to accommodate the PE parts. I'll probably glue them in after the wing spars have been attached. This might be a good time to perform a dry-fit check of the wing parts to the fuselage. LSP_Kevin, TAG, Landrotten Highlander and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 19, 2020 Share Posted February 19, 2020 Looks awesome so far John. All that black plastic would have me reeling after awhile! Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted February 19, 2020 Author Share Posted February 19, 2020 2 hours ago, Out2gtcha said: Looks awesome so far John. All that black plastic would have me reeling after awhile! Thanks Brian! Yeah, the black plastic is a bit of a pain to work with. But maybe this gives me an excuse to try black-basing! Time to dry-fit the wings! I used Tamiya tape for this exercise. The wingspan on this bird is incredibly wide! Despite the modular nature of construction, the fit is pretty good, which is a credit to the design team at Z-M. Without the engine in place, I found that the cowling pieces fit to the fuselage very well. I guess there is an option for me to leave the engine off the build and have it displayed alongside somehow? A final check was performed to see if the canopy and windscreen fit ok. I detected no serious issues with during this exercise so I've got a green light to keep the build moving. Wackyracer, LSP_Kevin, rafju and 12 others 15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncarina Posted February 20, 2020 Share Posted February 20, 2020 John, I loved building this (as the -0 boxing), and I love seeing it come together once again through your stellar work! Cheers, Tom Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerhard Posted February 20, 2020 Share Posted February 20, 2020 Just too good. Brilliant work. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wackyracer Posted February 20, 2020 Share Posted February 20, 2020 Keep rolling John, this is yet another epic build, luv every post. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted February 21, 2020 Author Share Posted February 21, 2020 Thanks guys! Continuing the dry-fit session with the radiator cowling reminded me that the engine will need to be installed since it holds exhaust pipes. I snapped the engine into place to check the cowling fit. The engine assembly does not want to sit correctly on its own without glue. However the top cowling pushes the engine into the correct position. There is a possibility that I can perhaps glue ONE of the two engine side cowlings into place and have the other one removable. We'll just have to see when that time comes. The wing spar has been glued into the wing bottoms. I had to shave the back edge of the spar where it butts up against the PE flaps. I glued the upper flaps onto the upper wings using 2-part epoxy. The roof of the wheel wells have been painted and I've applied the contractor stamp decal from the Eagle Cal decal sheet. rafju, Brett M, Kagemusha and 12 others 15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kagemusha Posted February 21, 2020 Share Posted February 21, 2020 Really nice, especially the engine. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alain Gadbois Posted February 22, 2020 Share Posted February 22, 2020 Excellent work Thunnus! Having an open panel would be nice to show off the details of the engine, which has to be glued in its intended location since it is visible through the wheel wells. The stamp decals are great as they are quite noticeable. Sad they're not in the kit. Alain Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted February 23, 2020 Author Share Posted February 23, 2020 4 hours ago, Alain Gadbois said: Having an open panel would be nice to show off the details of the engine, which has to be glued in its intended location since it is visible through the wheel wells. Oh and there's THAT too! Funny how absent-minded I can be during these builds. Maybe I need to focus on a single project? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zank_Frappa Posted February 23, 2020 Share Posted February 23, 2020 When I built my trumpeter 1/24 190d, I was able to use tiny neodymium magnets to allow part of the engine cowling to be removed to view the engine inside. Thunnus, Uncarina and Wackyracer 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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