Guest Vincent Posted January 17, 2020 Share Posted January 17, 2020 10 hours ago, LSP_Kevin said: I think the main issue you had with the panel lines is not leaving the sprue goo to cure for long enough. There's an old thread in the techniques forum where a member outlines his experiments with various melted sprue filler concoctions, and the general consensus was it had to be left alone for extraordinary lengths of time - weeks, sometimes! I'd have given yours a few days at least before attempting to scribe through it, John. Still, it's all looking pretty good! Kev Yes, melted sprue is a really shitty way to do it. In my experience, i have seen that it can take up to 3 months for the goo to be solid again. I always go for CA and never had any issue rescribing through it V Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted January 17, 2020 Author Share Posted January 17, 2020 13 hours ago, D Bellis said: The H-0, being pre-production, only occasionally had wooden tails. The wooden tail became standard on the H-1, but there were still metal tails on some of those, too. HTH, D Yes, that is very helpful! Thanks! That is along the lines of where my thoughts were. 7 hours ago, Vincent said: Yes, melted sprue is a really shitty way to do it. In my experience, i have seen that it can take up to 3 months for the goo to be solid again. I always go for CA and never had any issue rescribing through it V Live and learn, I guess. As a filler-only, it worked very well after 24 hours of curing. I only ran into troubles when trying to scribe over the goo, which was much softer than the surrounding plastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted January 17, 2020 Share Posted January 17, 2020 14 hours ago, Vincent said: Yes, melted sprue is a really shitty way to do it. In my experience, i have seen that it can take up to 3 months for the goo to be solid again. I always go for CA and never had any issue rescribing through it V Meh it depends on what plastic you use in your goo evergreen is apparently the worst stuff to use (sorry I realise that doesn’t help you now) because it’s soooo soft sprue goo should yield excellent results if you use a standard Hassy or Tamiya sprue; am sure others may be good but I would steer clear of companies with sh*tty soft plastic like Airfix or Revell...obviously evergreen is like that and then some i realise CA is used effectively by many, but its strength is its weakness ie it is always much tougher than the surrounding plastic and that can lead to sanding away said plastic when not desired; it is also just too hard to scribe for many people. sprue goo - if you get it right - is the only thing that’s exactly like the surrounding plastic because *it is* the surrounding plastic and now back to the master’s work... maamold 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radub Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 Superglue is great for filling panel lines. If you leave it a long time it may become harder so the "secret" is to sand it as soon as it cures. Scribing a good line over plastic and putty and plastic again (or even plastic-to-resin) is always problematic when using a "trenching" tool. For that kind of situations I designed this tool that works in a different way: you need to use it like a "file" by moving it back-and-forth a couple times to get a panel line. Because this "files" away material rather than "digging", it avoids the issue with scribing over dissimilar materials. http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77_110&products_id=734 HTH Radu nmayhew, Uncarina and Wackyracer 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Vincent Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 (edited) 11 hours ago, nmayhew said: it depends on what plastic you use in your goo I tried using the same plastic as the kit it goes on, makes no real difference : the injection process is a temprature melting while the goo is a chemical melting. The plastic will be fully solid once every molecule of the softener has evaporated - and that can take a loooong time Edited January 18, 2020 by Vincent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radub Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 I believe that dissolving plastic in a solvent was an Eastern European "trick" to make putty when no other putty was available. In the days of dear old communism (good idea, but never tried properly, I was told ;-) ) there were no hobby shops and no supplies, so modellers had to improvise. I did that in the past too until I discovered the other great work-around: "chalk dust mixed with paint". Some people still do such stuff. There is no more need for such improvised materials anymore, there are good putties available at reasonable prices. Radu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted January 20, 2020 Author Share Posted January 20, 2020 Thanks for the great discussion on sprue goo and CA as filler materials... very informative! Still futzing with the wing bottoms. I've re-attached the instrument panel with an additional spacer. The instrument panel hood was glued into place to protect the gun sight. I've decided to replace the kit wheels with set of resin wheels from Barracuda. D.B. Andrus, Michael931080, Landrotten Highlander and 9 others 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaconroot Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 Really looking forward to seeing how this turns out! Jim Root Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Molitor Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 Such a big difference in the wheels. A real no brainer in swapping them out. Love this bird coming together for you. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted January 26, 2020 Author Share Posted January 26, 2020 Here is the Jumo 213E-1 engine. Nothing has been added... just kit parts. Even though it will end up being completely covered, I thought it would be shame not to at least paint it. williamj, rafju, Alain Gadbois and 15 others 18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alain Gadbois Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 Nice looking engine! Some of it will be visible through the wheel wells still. Alain Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CZPetrP Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 The engine looks good. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncarina Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 Part of the beauty of these kits: you know the awesome detail is there, even if hidden. Great work John! Cheers, Tom Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted January 26, 2020 Author Share Posted January 26, 2020 Thanks guys! I've added the engine supports... Zoukei-Mura has provided a very nice engine out of the box. Dpgsbody55, LSP_Kevin, Kagemusha and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted January 27, 2020 Author Share Posted January 27, 2020 The Jumo engine is complete! Kagemusha, Lothar, MDuv and 10 others 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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