LSP_Kevin Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 51 minutes ago, dodgem37 said: That is one great-looking cockpit. P.E. makes a big difference. Sincerely, Mark You took those exact words right out of my mouth, Mark! Kev Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
levier Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 Wow... I think you got the best of that PE set... magnificent! Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonio Argudo Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 wow, great cockpit John, really stands out!!! one small detail of the control column caught my eye, the central portion was also black not grey, some ref here, keep that beast forward mate, cheers TAG, Uncarina, D.B. Andrus and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kahunaminor Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 Lovely work and well documented John. Regards, Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted January 13, 2020 Author Share Posted January 13, 2020 Thanks guys! Now that the cockpit tub is completed, I can glue the fuselage together. This assembly is made more complicated by the fact that it is a triangular affair... two fuselage sides AND the fuselage bottom. It made dry-fitting of the cockpit parts a headache so I'm eager to put this teepee together and move past it. One last look at the fuel tanks before they go bye-bye. The cockpit tub fit better into the port side so I started off there. I put tube glue on all of the interior contact areas and then topped it off with Tamiya Extra Thin on the joints that I could reach from the outside. After the left side was taken care of but not completely cured, I imgthe starboard fuselage side. Now could pinch the two fuselage sides together to get a good connection. The bottom was attached last. I set that aside to dry. The next step in this build (per the instructions) would be the engine. Since I am replacing the kit prop with a resin prop and spinner from Henri Daehne, I wanted to make the necessary adjustments to the kit parts. I didn't make any precise measurements but to my eye, the kit prop and spinner look pretty good. Where the H.D. prop outshines the competition is the surface quality and the amazing details found on the prop hub and spinner. Once the prop is assembled, you won't be able to see much of the hub detail, unfortunately. Since the Ta152H has a cannon firing through the spinner, I won't be able to fashion a pop-off spinner using magnets like I did on my last Fw190D-9 build. The main modification to the kit parts is to enlarge the holes for the prop shaft. H.D. includes a 3mm diameter brass tube and the kit parts need to accommodate this wider shaft. Once I have verified that the brass shaft is now accommodated, I can set this aside and move on with the build. rafju, jgrease, Trak-Tor and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted January 13, 2020 Author Share Posted January 13, 2020 After the fuselage was assembled, I wanted to check the fit of the gun/engine cowling. This large piece has internal ribbing and unfortunately, has sink marks on the exterior side corresponding to those ribs. Strategic application of Mr Surfacer should address the sink marks. Jumping over to the wings, the bottoms of which need modification to backdate this H-1 kit into an H-0. I created masks using the Silhouette Portrait cutter to help position the new access panels and panel lines. It's not just for paint masks! I've sprayed the proposed panels with a light coat of Mr Surfacer. This now gives me a guide on where to eradicate existing panel lines and where the new panels and ports should go. In preparation of the imminent filling operation, I've taken a stab at making a batch of sprue goo (actually white sheet styrene). The fuselage assembly went together fairly well, requiring a small amount of filler on the fuselage spine. What are the odds that the Revi 16 gun sight gets knocked off before I can attach the windshield? TorbenD, Uncarina, Trak-Tor and 13 others 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncarina Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 Huge progress John! Your riveting job really shows up well--excellent work! Cheers, Tom Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 Wow ! Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lothar Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 Fantastic attention to detail, absolutely fantastic Lothar Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 What a great update. 'I won't be able to fashion a pop-off spinner using magnets' Could you provide a look-see link for me? Thank you. Sincerely, Mark Out2gtcha and Thunnus 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rafju Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 (edited) What a great thread! What great pictures! @Thunnus John, please which camera do you use for such perfect closed view? Edited January 13, 2020 by rafju Out2gtcha and Thunnus 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 Great work John! That is going to be stunner for sure. Lots of sanding and filling work can make for the doldrums before getting to the cool parts. 6 hours ago, dodgem37 said: 'I won't be able to fashion a pop-off spinner using magnets' Could you provide a look-see link for me? Id be interested in that as well! Ive got quite the selection of differently sized R.E. magnets and would love to utilize them for props. AAMOF, Im at that very point right now on my Ki-45. I found the prop shaft to propeller/spinner connection very loosy/goosy and not to my liking. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted January 13, 2020 Author Share Posted January 13, 2020 Thanks so much for the comments guys! Greatly appreciated, as always! 6 hours ago, dodgem37 said: What a great update. 'I won't be able to fashion a pop-off spinner using magnets' Could you provide a look-see link for me? Thank you. Sincerely, Mark 26 minutes ago, Out2gtcha said: Great work John! That is going to be stunner for sure. Lots of sanding and filling work can make for the doldrums before getting to the cool parts. Id be interested in that as well! Ive got quite the selection of differently sized R.E. magnets and would love to utilize them for props. AAMOF, Im at that very point right now on my Ki-45. I found the prop shaft to propeller/spinner connection very loosy/goosy and not to my liking. Since my build log for my last D-9 was on a different site, I'll cut and paste the entry here... Quote The detail that Henri Daehne supplies with his prop assemblies is beautiful but most of it ends up getting hidden by the spinner. Due to the sparse attachment area between the backplate and the bottom edge of the spinner, I've had to glue the spinner on and locking all of that detail away. As more people commented on it, the more I thought about trying to make the spinner removable. The foam clay mold idea was a failure but Bruce came up with a tantalizing solution... magnets. The ones Bruce posted were tiny... didn't know they came that small. I actually bought one size bigger.. 3mm x 1mm discs. The plan was to remove the prop hub, drill a 3mm hole from the bottom and stick a magnet in the hole. I could then glue another magnet at the tip from the inside and hopefully that would keep the spinner attached. But as I've said, I've taken great pride in increasing the strength of all of the glue joins INCLUDING the prop hub. Long story short... I could not get it off. I went as far as giving it a whack with a hammer while the hub was held by a vise. I thought I'd better stop before I ruin the hub or bend the shaft. Then another idea... why not just drill the 3mm hole from the TOP of the hub? I could re-make the hub details with punched plastic easily enough. So I sliced off the detail from the top of the hub. Drilled a shallow hole into the hub using a 3mm drill bit. The little magnet fits almost perfectly! Hub detail replaced using punched plastic discs. Hub looks good as new after some paint! Another magnet was superglued into the tip of the spinner. There was a slight gap between the magnet and the top of the hub but I added a magnet to reduce the gap. So... does it work? Yup! Like a charm! The magnets pulls the spinner into place with a satisfying click even against gravity. The spinner comes off at any time to reveal the hub details... success! Landrotten Highlander, LSP_Kevin, 109 and 8 others 10 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted January 13, 2020 Author Share Posted January 13, 2020 6 hours ago, rafju said: What a great thread! What great pictures! @Thunnus John, please which camera do you use for such perfect closed view? Thanks Rafju! I use a Canon point and shoot camera for my work in progress photos. It is a Canon S110. I've been using the old Canon S-series for a while now (S40, S50, S95, S100 and now S110) but I think it has dropped out of the Canon line-up, unfortunately. The S-series was characterized by being a small point-n-shoot with the capability of producing RAW images. This gives me more flexibility when processing photos. I shoot in RAW and process in Adobe Lightroom. The key is having good lighting so you don't have to use the flash on the camera. I have three desk lamps on my small hobby desk. zaxos345, rafju, Lothar and 2 others 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monthebiff Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 Brilliant work on the cockpit John, that PE work has really paid off! Regards. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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