Radub Posted December 28, 2019 Share Posted December 28, 2019 I am looking forward to seeing this completed. If I may, I would like to offer some advice about the RB Productions photo-etched parts. When you "layer" the instrument panel and side console parts do not use superglue/cyanoacrylate. Use Johnson" Klear/Future (or whatever it is called now) for all parts that are not subjected to any load-bearing pressure. Another great product I used with great success for the same purpose is the Mr Metal Primer (square bottle, red label), which sticks well to metal and also works very well as a primer for metal in general You should always apply a "primer for non-ferrous metals" (not just any primer!!!) to photo-etched parts before painting or gluing. Mr Metal Primer is a clear "varnish" that dries streak-free and I like it a lot as a metal primer. Hth, Radu RLWP, D.B. Andrus, Kagemusha and 3 others 3 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted December 28, 2019 Share Posted December 28, 2019 Very much looking forward to this! i am sure you’ve already noted it, but there should not be a mesh installed in the supercharger intake i see lots of 152 builds using a photo etch mesh - it replicates how a 152 airframe was stored in a museum but was not present on the original during wartime - and it drives me nuts! Thunnus and MikeC 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncarina Posted December 29, 2019 Share Posted December 29, 2019 Ok, now I’m going back to remove that screen! Cheers, Tom Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted December 30, 2019 Author Share Posted December 30, 2019 On 12/27/2019 at 10:54 AM, rigor said: where does one fine the Henri Daehne's props I've been purchasing directly from Henri. He can be contacted at henridaehne@gmx.de. On 12/28/2019 at 11:47 AM, Radub said: I am looking forward to seeing this completed. If I may, I would like to offer some advice about the RB Productions photo-etched parts. When you "layer" the instrument panel and side console parts do not use superglue/cyanoacrylate. Use Johnson" Klear/Future (or whatever it is called now) for all parts that are not subjected to any load-bearing pressure. Another great product I used with great success for the same purpose is the Mr Metal Primer (square bottle, red label), which sticks well to metal and also works very well as a primer for metal in general You should always apply a "primer for non-ferrous metals" (not just any primer!!!) to photo-etched parts before painting or gluing. Mr Metal Primer is a clear "varnish" that dries streak-free and I like it a lot as a metal primer. Hth, Radu Thanks so much for the helpful tips, Radu! I love getting input directly from the manufacturer... how good is that? I've not bothered with primer on the small PE cockpit bits and pieces but have used the Mr Metal Primer on larger PE parts. I use the spray can decanted into my airbrush. On 12/28/2019 at 3:56 PM, nmayhew said: Very much looking forward to this! i am sure you’ve already noted it, but there should not be a mesh installed in the supercharger intake i see lots of 152 builds using a photo etch mesh - it replicates how a 152 airframe was stored in a museum but was not present on the original during wartime - and it drives me nuts! Yes, thank you! Aware of that inaccuracy and have addressed it on a previous build of the 1/48 Z-M Ta152H-1 kit. Thanks guys! Spent most of the weekend freezing up at the South Rim of the Grand Canyon! Brrrrr.... according to my car thermometer, the temps dropped to as low as MINUS 15 degrees Fahrenheit. Just doing some preliminary poking around at the kit parts right now. The wing cannon parts seem to be straight and have a dimple on the business end to represent an open gun barrel. I've sanded the barrels round and deepened the barrel openings. I can always replace with brass tubing if the kit plastic is not convincing enough. The dimples on the exhaust pipes were also gouged out further to simulate hollowness. The black kit plastic is interesting... a bit soft and rubbery like hard vinyl. It has some advantages like being flexible and less prone to breakage but it's more difficult to sand smooth. The insides of the exhausts were touched up with Tamiya Extra Thin cement to get rid of the bits of excess plastic left over from the gouging process. The supercharger intake is molded with some sort of grating over the opening. I believe this is inaccurate as discussed above so I've removed the grating. That's all for now! Dpgsbody55, nmayhew, Alain Gadbois and 15 others 18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncarina Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 John, That is a stunning photo of the South Rim! I’ve camped there in March when there was snow on the rim and 100 F down below at Phantom Ranch. Great progress on your build so far. ZM plastic is definitely a challenge at times. Cheers, Tom Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted January 1, 2020 Author Share Posted January 1, 2020 I've started to look at the kit a little closer. The cockpit parts are not overly impressive. It's not bad but I wouldn't call it good either. Fairly soft details and noticeably short of state-of-the-art. That's what aftermarket is for, I guess. I would prefer a resin cockpit but I'll have to settle for a bunch of photoetch instead. This is the RB Productions Ta152H cockpit set, comprised of a single fret of brass. As you can see, it has some fairly big components such as the seat back, the side consoles and the instrument panel components. It's also got a ton of tiny bits and pieces, of which I'm sure I'll be losing or electing not to use. As a warm-up, I decided to see if I could get the seat back assembled. This is designed to augment the kit seat not replace it, so I'll have to chop up the kit part if I want to use it. When I'm fairly confident that I can make this work, I cut the seat back off of the kit seat. I've deviated from the instructions by leaving the little platform at the back of the seat and seeing if I can utilize that plastic to serve as a base for the brass seat back. Here is what the new seat looks like compared to the kit seat (with molded harnesses). The phototech set has an elaborate set of parts to mimic the adjustable height mounting frame for the seat. I'll probably simplify this as much as possible since it will be largely unseen anyway. I just want to establish a positive connection between the seat and the rear cockpit bulkhead. Having wet my feet with the seat, I decided to tackle the upper instrument panel. Pretty fiddly work... the upper IP alone has EIGHTEEN parts! The price for an upgrade here is pretty steep but hopefully it'll look noticeably better than the kit part, which I'll shoot with paint for a comparison when I get further along. This episode emptied my gas tank and I'll have to re-gather my energy/patience for more fun with brass tomorrow. D.B. Andrus, Uncarina, LSP_Kevin and 19 others 20 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceofClubs Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 The Master is back! Ciao Filippo nmayhew and Thunnus 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncarina Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 This will look so good in that cockpit! In case you are using CA, one of my favorite adhesives for the tiny parts is Future or Quickshine: dries clear and allows time for repositioning. I know what you mean about recharging the batteries: I face a mound of photoetch with my HMS Rodney build! Happy New Year! Tom Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted January 2, 2020 Author Share Posted January 2, 2020 Thanks guys! The fiddly work continued with the RB Productions photo etch stuff. I folded up the foot pedals... The upper and lower instrument panels have been assembled. 18 parts for the upper panel and 22 for the lower... must be some kind of record. Taking Radu's specific advice, the smaller bits were attached using Future. Not the most "binding" of adhesives but it worked out ok. Some of the larger attachments were secured using CA glue. Again, per Radu's advice, the instrument panels were coated with Mr Metal Primer and then painted in RLM 66 Dark Grey (Mr Hobby Aqueous). Various details were brush painted and the panels were given a flat coat to seal. I then populated each of the instruments using Airscale decals and then topped off each gauge with a punched piece of clear acetate. Since the RB Productions set doesn't include a Revi 16 gun sight, I'll have to dig into my spares box to see if I can drum something up. If the search comes up empty, I'll have to take a look at the kit part to see if it is usable. 109, F-4Phanwell, D.B. Andrus and 12 others 15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zaxos345 Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 Awesome work on that panel John!! I always preferded the pe unpainted panels!! How do you glue the clear acetate on top of the instrument decals? John Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kahunaminor Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 6 hours ago, Thunnus said: Since the RB Productions set doesn't include a Revi 16 gun sight, I'll have to dig into my spares box to see if I can drum something up. Stunning work as always John. May I suggest Quickboost’s 1/32 Revi 16B? From memory they come in a pack of three and should be available fairly easily. Scalemates description here: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/quickboost-qb-32-006-gunsights-revi-16b-3x--211725 If you cannot find a set readily, drop me a line and I will mail you a set. Regards. Kent Thunnus and sturmovik 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted January 2, 2020 Author Share Posted January 2, 2020 6 hours ago, zaxos345 said: Awesome work on that panel John!! I always preferded the pe unpainted panels!! How do you glue the clear acetate on top of the instrument decals? John Thanks John! The clear punched discs are a tight fit into the instrument bezels. So I just add a drop of Future on the instrument decal and then press the clear disc in with a wood cocktail stick. 4 hours ago, Kahunaminor said: Stunning work as always John. May I suggest Quickboost’s 1/32 Revi 16B? From memory they come in a pack of three and should be available fairly easily. Scalemates description here: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/quickboost-qb-32-006-gunsights-revi-16b-3x--211725 If you cannot find a set readily, drop me a line and I will mail you a set. Regards. Kent Thank you Kent! I believe I do have some of those Quickboost Revi sights in my spares box! Out2gtcha and zaxos345 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 Nice! I normally regard the end result of PE as worth all the cursing and trouble. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monthebiff Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 Liking your build choice John and great progress so far, that RB etched fret looks really good. Regards. Andy Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radub Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 Great work on the instrument panel. Patience paid off in the end. The set was designed to use the kit Revi sight, that was why none was included. Radu Thunnus, Kais and 109 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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