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1/32 Zoukei-Mura Ta152H-0 White 7


Thunnus

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1 hour ago, Thunnus said:

 

Hopefully it'll get better.  I just picked up this CA glue station...

IMG-6946.jpg

 

The base is not essential as you can use just about anything as a working depository for CA glue. But I need some applicators, saw this design in my favorite color.  Previously, I was using the loop end of a sewing needle with the end cut off and I was having a miserable time cleaning the built up glue with a knife.  Ended up breaking a couple needles this way.  Instructions for this Meng tool turned on the light bulb... you can simply BURN the excess glue off.  How easy is that?

Similar to the RB Productions item, in fact almost identical. I have mine attached to an old hobby knife handle, secured by screwing the blunt end into the blade holder openings.Cleaning? Yes just a lit match under the excess. 
 

Great work seems hardly adequate to describe your work John. Bravo!

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1 hour ago, rigor said:

Really John are you married if so your a lucky man having so much Bench time :D

 

Yes, lucky!  But earned it too.  We worked hard to get our girls a good education and they are now both in college.  Being empty nesters has created some free time!

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I was able to do a little bit of work on the Ta152H.  While playing around with the wings, I noticed the ceiling of the wheel wells featured this rivet detail.
IMG-6954.jpg

 

The detail is soft and vague so I thought I'd give this product a shot...
IMG-6956.jpg

 

They are applied like decals but instead of flat markings, they are tiny resin bumps.  First, the raised detail in the wheel wells is removed.
IMG-6957.jpg

 

The Archer's rivets are applied in custom cut strips.  I used Microsol to bond the thin carrier film to the plastic.
IMG-6958.jpg

 

The ailerons have the opposite problem.  Raised detail that's a little too defined and sharp.
IMG-6959.jpg

 

I've toned down the ribs by sanding.
IMG-6968.jpg

 

I've glued the frontal insert piece into the wing uppers so that I can address the seams and riveting before glued the wing halves together.
IMG-6960.jpg

 

Finally, I've completed the riveting on the wing bottoms.
IMG-6967.jpg

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First go at the photoetch flaps. This set is sold by Zoukei-Mura but is obviously an Eduard product.  No English on the instructions but we shouldn't need them right?
IMG-7000.jpg

 

Gonna start with the upper flaps because these look much simpler to fold than the lower, movable flaps.
IMG-7045.jpg

 

I used the Small Shop hold and fold to fold up the two end wall sections.  
IMG-7046.jpg

 

I then folded the middle section up "manually" using tweezers.
IMG-7047.jpg

 

The end with the delicately attached spars is then folded up 90 degrees.
IMG-7048.jpg

 

 

Before folding this section completely down, the spars are carefully rotated 90 degrees so that they are perpendicular to the flap surfaces.
IMG-7049.jpg

 

When folded down completely, the spars can now be secured into place with glue.  Looks good right?
IMG-7050.jpg

 

I wish it stayed that way.  After securing the majority of the spars down by running thin CA glue along the joints.  I went back and used debonder to clean up the glue residue from the spars that didn't get secured properly.  The debonder seems to work not just on contact but on proximity to fumes and seemed to weaken the bonds of the other spars because they kept popping up.  Glue one down... another one would pop up.  It turned into an arcade game session...

5-Whac-a-Moles-Carnival-Arcade-Games-for

 

After re-gluing all of the spars down at least once and breaking two off in the process, half of them are still not glued down.  Maybe my batch of CA glue has gone bad?  Before I did something I would regret, I pushed myself away from the work station and called it a night.

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Hi Thannus

 

I don't know what metal or thickness has been used in the etches but when it is nickel silver or brass the etching process can work harden the material and a gentle pre tempering can be useful- particularly where twists may be involved. I have an idea Eduard has a penchant for stainless steel, an etching material that is very rare in my main hobby of railway modelling, mainly because it is bloody difficult to work with.

 

Les

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Hi Thunnus, I'm not sure why you broke out the super glue debonder?  if I understand correctly, you were using it to clean up the excess glue around the joins?  Have you tryed using  some fine grade sand paper wrapped around a toothpick ?  ( a grade that won't scratch the PE but will still take the CA away) CA glue is so brittle that you can also cut and or chip  it away with a sharp No.11 blade.  Perhaps a combination of these two ideas might be helpful and that way you could leave the debonder out of the equation. 

 

I hope this is of some help.

All the best with your progress, 

Cheers Pete

Edited by PeterOlsen
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Thanks guys!

 

15 hours ago, jumpjack said:

Hi Thannus

 

I don't know what metal or thickness has been used in the etches but when it is nickel silver or brass the etching process can work harden the material and a gentle pre tempering can be useful- particularly where twists may be involved. I have an idea Eduard has a penchant for stainless steel, an etching material that is very rare in my main hobby of railway modelling, mainly because it is bloody difficult to work with.

 

Les

 

Hi Les... I think the flap parts are brass.  Sanding the attachment nubs reveals a yellow-ish colored metal underneath... assuming it is brass.

 

 

11 hours ago, PeterOlsen said:

Hi Thunnus, I'm not sure why you broke out the super glue debonder?  if I understand correctly, you were using it to clean up the excess glue around the joins?  Have you tryed using  some fine grade sand paper wrapped around a toothpick ?  ( a grade that won't scratch the PE but will still take the CA away) CA glue is so brittle that you can also cut and or chip  it away with a sharp No.11 blade.  Perhaps a combination of these two ideas might be helpful and that way you could leave the debonder out of the equation. 

 

I hope this is of some help.

All the best with your progress, 

Cheers Pete

 

Yes, the debonder was used to clean up the excess glue but only on the spars that had not been properly attached.  As I worked down the line applying the CA glue, if the spar didn't sit down after 2-3 glue attempts, I lifted it up to mark it and then continued to work on the next one. When I had finished all of the spars, I went back to the ones that were lifted and used debonder to clean up only those areas.  So no debonder was not directly applied to the properly seated spars.  But they started lifting anyway, which was the frustrating part of the deal.  Have not tried the sandpaper but yes, I've scraped some of the excess using an x-acto blade... thanks for the input.

 

Will try again with a fresher mind and attitude.

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I conquered the flaps today.  Well, maybe not conquered but at least they are done.  I'll spray them with metal primer and then some paint to see how they turned out... hard to see right now.
IMG-7056.jpg

 

The top of the flaps go here.  I'll have to remove the raised spars on the kit wing but that should be easy with a pair of cutters.
IMG-7057.jpg

 

The upper wings have been riveted.
IMG-7058.jpg

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Flap uppers after metal primer and a coat of Neutral Grey paint...
IMG-7063.jpg
IMG-7061.jpg
IMG-7060.jpg

 

I cut out one of the lower flaps and was expecting to get finished folding at least one of them tonight.  The instructions left me dead in my tracks.
IMG-7064.jpg

 

How they get from that first image to the next is totally beyond me.  That type of complex fold is a mystery given the limited tools I have.  It's almost like you require some sort of form to be placed under the length of the flap to ensure the correct and consistent angles?  Which is saying, you need to accurately scratchbuild the flaps before you can fold the metal copy.  And how on God's green earth can you fold those little spars perfectly square without breaking them off those wisps of metal that they are attached to.  I broke off a few on the other flaps and those just needed to placed in the right position without any folding at all.  I can just make out the Japanese text above the pic... something like, "please do not contact us if you encounter any problems during assembly, we cannot figure it out either".
IMG-7065.jpg

 

The kit lower flaps are starting to look really good to me.  No ejection pin marks!
IMG-7067.jpg

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Whether any of the below will help John I'm not sure but here's my thoughts...

 

Reverse the process. I think you need to fold the lower section (as you have it laid out) first and start with the inner edge (when assembled).

 

Make the 2 90 degree folds then the vertical height of the upright will show you the angle to fold the sloping edge to allow it all the layflat.

 

The other side can then be folded over, and the spars have 2 90 degree folds made.   

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