Martinnfb Posted May 15, 2020 Share Posted May 15, 2020 Fantastic airbrush control, as always John Cheers M Thunnus and Lothar 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted May 15, 2020 Share Posted May 15, 2020 Fantastic work as always John. The camo is off to a great start. Funny that the older Badger does the job that the super high-end Iwata can't do. Matt Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted May 15, 2020 Author Share Posted May 15, 2020 3 hours ago, Martinnfb said: Fantastic airbrush control, as always John Cheers M Thanks Martin! I'm enjoying this build now... painting is the fun part! 2 hours ago, scvrobeson said: Fantastic work as always John. The camo is off to a great start. Funny that the older Badger does the job that the super high-end Iwata can't do. Matt Thanks Matt! Not exactly an apples to apples comparison since the SOTAR has a 0.2mm needle versus the HP-C Plus at 0.3mm. And I got my Iwata for $128 six years ago on Amazon. The SOTAR is similarly priced. If I were to forced to choose one, I'd pick the HP-C Plus, no hesitation. scvrobeson 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted May 15, 2020 Author Share Posted May 15, 2020 I can't help putting the HD prop on from time to time! Luckily, the cannon barrel keeps the spinner on relatively securely so I won't have to glue it on. It'll be a nice touch being able to see the detailed hub on demand. Camo painting is not done but I thought I'd do the wing crosses at this time. Custom masks cut by the Silhouette Portrait. The port wing cross came out kinda funky. Sometimes you'll get weird results if the mask stretches but it wasn't stretched on the relatively flat wing. I fished the mask out of the trash and confirmed it was an errant cut by the Portrait. Strange! Compared to the starboard cross. 109, BiggTim, Wackyracer and 14 others 17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wackyracer Posted May 15, 2020 Share Posted May 15, 2020 Fantastic work with the airbrush and cutter John. Always a pleasure to follow along with your work. Aaron Martinnfb and Thunnus 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterOlsen Posted May 15, 2020 Share Posted May 15, 2020 (edited) Hi John, yours colours look fantastic ! I'd like to make a comment without me sounding negative in any way. Please correct me if I'm wrong but the saw tooth demarcations seem to be a bit to elongated and triangular as apposed to a more shallow like wave type pattern. ( if that makes sense) I understand it will be a pain in the back side to back track but I think you can still change it before you start the weathering stage. If you choose to of course. You've done so much hard work and a really nice job with this kit. I I've thoroughly enjoyed watching your build progress. Cheers, Peter Edited May 15, 2020 by PeterOlsen D.B. Andrus, Thunnus and Martinnfb 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted May 15, 2020 Share Posted May 15, 2020 11 hours ago, Thunnus said: Thanks Matt! Not exactly an apples to apples comparison since the SOTAR has a 0.2mm needle versus the HP-C Plus at 0.3mm. And I got my Iwata for $128 six years ago on Amazon. The SOTAR is similarly priced. If I were to forced to choose one, I'd pick the HP-C Plus, no hesitation. Ah, you'll have to grab an H&S Infinity then. .15mm needle that can pretty much write your name in cursive if need be. Matt Thunnus and Martinnfb 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted May 15, 2020 Author Share Posted May 15, 2020 Thanks guys! 3 hours ago, PeterOlsen said: Hi John, yours colours look fantastic ! I'd like to make a comment without me sounding negative in any way. Please correct me if I'm wrong but the saw tooth demarcations seem to be a bit to elongated and triangular as apposed to a more shallow like wave type pattern. ( if that makes sense) I understand it will be a pain in the back side to back track but I think you can still change it before you start the weathering stage. If you choose to of course. You've done so much hard work and a really nice job with this kit. I I've thoroughly enjoyed watching your build progress. Cheers, Peter Hi Peter, The sawtooth pattern was purposefully made to be triangular in shape to match the references that I have. There is a photo of the underside wing tip of 150007 in Crandall's Dora Volume 1 which shows the shape as roughly triangular... I'm actually re-doing the sawtooth right now. It will retain the triangular shape but I wanted to make the triangles smaller and extend onto the lower wings a little bit less. MDuv, scvrobeson, BiggTim and 4 others 6 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterOlsen Posted May 15, 2020 Share Posted May 15, 2020 Hey cool look at that ! I stand corrected and a little relieved actually. I was really hesitant to write anything as I didn't want to throw a spanner in the works so to speak. My apologies. Keep up the great work. Cheers, Pete. Martinnfb and Thunnus 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted May 15, 2020 Author Share Posted May 15, 2020 I appreciate any and all comments, Pete! Just to show that the Silhouette Portrait is not infallible... The upper wing cross was a simple fix... The sawtooth correction was a little more involved. First, I had to re-establish the RLM 76 base. In order to equalize the new RLM 76 with the old, I put down a base of neutral grey underneath. After the RLM 76 was applied over the neutral grey, the new masks with a smaller and tighter pattern of triangles was used. The result is a little less dramatic than the first attempt, which was the goal here. In preparation of the re-painting, I brilliantly thought to use the mask leftovers to protect the crosses. So that saved me a step or two! The sawtooth redux is complete. As you can see, I've lowered the camo demarcation on the front end but have not started on the mottling yet. MDuv, Anthony in NZ, Martinnfb and 19 others 22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spyrosjzmichos Posted May 15, 2020 Share Posted May 15, 2020 Lovely painting John! Thunnus and Martinnfb 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Vincent Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 Ohh, i love it !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Molitor Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 Couldn’t agree more. Lovely looking -152. Thunnus and Martinnfb 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaconroot Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 Incredibly nice paint work! Truly inspiring..... Jim Root Thunnus and Martinnfb 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kais Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 (edited) John, I am thoroughly enjoying your treatment of the Tank. What a treat to observe! I have the same boxing here. Watching your struggles motivated me to start trial fitting much of kit in an attempt to find the root of the evils which befell you. Without coming across as a smart aleck, I believe I've found the cause, and a fix. What seems to be going on is tolerance stacking. The wing spar out board of the engine pickup mounts appears to be approximately 1.5 to 2mm too long ( .75 to 1mm each side).This gives you the gaps you experienced. The fix is to saw through the spar and re-glue. The kerf of about .7 mm each side results in a noticeabley better fit on all the other joins. In addition to taking .7mm a side from the front spar you will need to remove the same from the rear spar pick ups which project from under the cockpit. ............. I realise this is cold comfort to you (unless you're building another tank), but perhaps others might find it useful. Edited October 22, 2021 by Kais Happy snaps to show that it happened Martinnfb, John Stambaugh, Shiba and 5 others 4 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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