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Alouette II Aérospatiale SE.3130 Helicopter 1:32


Aluxe

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Hello guys

 

After some time I can now upload this SE.3130 Alouette II 1/32 model kit to share how difficult it will be to get the best out of it, because it is the only mold in the market #04401 Revell, there is a lot to take advantage of, but I recognize the most beautiful pieces of this kit, which for me are the windshield, oolala, exquisite, and I will support myself with some scrtach, which I will decide to move forward, as well as the set 32043 of Eduard,

 

In the morning with a delicious coffee we start ..

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More by habit, than by rebellion, my models do not start them in the order of the instructions, from the branches I take with which I think to start, and at this moment I take the tail structure, a fairly simple tetrahedron, which does not satisfy me, these are round tubes and the model cannot reproduce them, so it will be necessary to devise,

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I will use brass tubes of 1mm and .9mm, I will respect the measures of the model, which will guide me, the really complicated thing was to perforate the tubes, fortunately none of them turned or scored badly.

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now wire them together. That will serve as a guide when it comes to welding. For today it was all the breakthrough, as I go on vacation, tomorrow I will try to advance something

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Edited by Aluxe
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Early we started, with the welding of the parts, I have been twisted several times! I realized that I was making progress, the heat affected everything again, so I had to fasten 2 posts to the wooden base, and each weld held until finished

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Ready welding, and sanded the excesses, the wire core I placed helped a lot.

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I checked that there are no deviations, looks alienated

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It's all for today, sold out, all day at the workbench.

Edited by Aluxe
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Great progress! I personally love working with brass, I find it very satisfying. 

As to the problem of the heat of soldering heating up and melting previous joint..........

I have found that if you use several metal clamps, or even a few metal alligator clips around the previous soldered seam/joint really helps to disperse the heat and prevent previous joints from melting due to soldering another joint next to it. 

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oh yes Richard, I imagine that real aircraft assembly engineers enjoy the same or more than us building our kits

 Yes, thank you Out2gtcha, taking advantage of the vacation to top, I will try your advice next time, the tip sounds very good.  some other parts to be welded,

 

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Today I spent the day cutting the new pieces of brass tube and other styrene, let the glue dry the parts with styrene, now I compare with the revell piece, how do you see?

Edited by Aluxe
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:coolio: thanks Spyro

 

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little progress, hidden from my wife who has occupied me, jjjjj, after joining the pieces, I realized that I will not be able to weld, because of the styrene pieces that I put,

Oh man, :hmmm: I'm going to try a metal epoxy glue 

So far for today.

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I had been assuming when you said 'weld' you meant soldered. I can see you have actually welded!

 

If you have used tubes for the tail boom, glue pegs into the tubes and drill holes in the styrene for them. I do this with brass struts on plastic models

 

If the tail boom is made of solid rod - I think your helicopter is going to sit down on it's tail!

 

Richard

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Richard indeed, so I imagined solving it, drilling holes and joining styrene and brass. and I'm also thinking that the tail will be really heavy, so I'll be thinking about avence, how to solve,:blink:
This kit model brings me surprises as I go along.

 

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here with a small advance, the central frame, the measures play against me, next to the piece of the model, it does not look very good, I will adjust and change some brass tubes that seem short

 

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until next time

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After seeing that fuel tank i have no doubt that balancing that heavy tail will be NO problem :D. Nice work. 
someone mentioned above clamping parts when you have to solder near another previously done joint. I went to a class at IPMS this year and the intructor showed us how he used 2 different temp solders. Start with the high temp and then use low temp when you do the 2nd set of joints. Thought I’d share in hopes it helps anyone out.

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oh yes, Themo, I take advantage of putting some weight, I hope it is enough, so weak are the supports of the landing skate,
Thanks for the tips, I hope to put them into practice.

 

we put some more pieces of the Eduard set

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Now it is up to the transmission of the tail rotor, the idea is to recover the bearings and use styrene tube.

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In the end I preferred to use brass tube

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Hi Guys

 

a small breakthrough, I recovered from the original model the bases that support the rolls that lead the tail rotor direction cable, the rolls are styrene round,

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and now to start working in the crew cabin

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and if the weight was not enough for balance, I will apply weight inside, until I achieve it

 

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