Aluxe Posted December 16, 2019 Share Posted December 16, 2019 (edited) Hello guys After some time I can now upload this SE.3130 Alouette II 1/32 model kit to share how difficult it will be to get the best out of it, because it is the only mold in the market #04401 Revell, there is a lot to take advantage of, but I recognize the most beautiful pieces of this kit, which for me are the windshield, oolala, exquisite, and I will support myself with some scrtach, which I will decide to move forward, as well as the set 32043 of Eduard, In the morning with a delicious coffee we start .. More by habit, than by rebellion, my models do not start them in the order of the instructions, from the branches I take with which I think to start, and at this moment I take the tail structure, a fairly simple tetrahedron, which does not satisfy me, these are round tubes and the model cannot reproduce them, so it will be necessary to devise, I will use brass tubes of 1mm and .9mm, I will respect the measures of the model, which will guide me, the really complicated thing was to perforate the tubes, fortunately none of them turned or scored badly. now wire them together. That will serve as a guide when it comes to welding. For today it was all the breakthrough, as I go on vacation, tomorrow I will try to advance something Edited December 16, 2019 by Aluxe nicolas96, Trak-Tor, Cheetah11 and 15 others 17 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aluxe Posted December 17, 2019 Author Share Posted December 17, 2019 (edited) Early we started, with the welding of the parts, I have been twisted several times! I realized that I was making progress, the heat affected everything again, so I had to fasten 2 posts to the wooden base, and each weld held until finished Ready welding, and sanded the excesses, the wire core I placed helped a lot. I checked that there are no deviations, looks alienated It's all for today, sold out, all day at the workbench. Edited December 17, 2019 by Aluxe Kendzior, RLWP, ShelbyGT500 and 16 others 18 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted December 17, 2019 Share Posted December 17, 2019 Lovely modelling - and you have probably learned something about the problems they had making the full sized aircraft! Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted December 18, 2019 Share Posted December 18, 2019 Great progress! I personally love working with brass, I find it very satisfying. As to the problem of the heat of soldering heating up and melting previous joint.......... I have found that if you use several metal clamps, or even a few metal alligator clips around the previous soldered seam/joint really helps to disperse the heat and prevent previous joints from melting due to soldering another joint next to it. Uncarina 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aluxe Posted December 18, 2019 Author Share Posted December 18, 2019 (edited) @ oh yes Richard, I imagine that real aircraft assembly engineers enjoy the same or more than us building our kits @ Yes, thank you Out2gtcha, taking advantage of the vacation to top, I will try your advice next time, the tip sounds very good. some other parts to be welded, Today I spent the day cutting the new pieces of brass tube and other styrene, let the glue dry the parts with styrene, now I compare with the revell piece, how do you see? Edited December 18, 2019 by Aluxe Buster99, Uncarina, TorbenD and 10 others 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spyrosjzmichos Posted December 18, 2019 Share Posted December 18, 2019 Nice work on scratchbuilding the tailboom! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aluxe Posted December 20, 2019 Author Share Posted December 20, 2019 @ thanks Spyro little progress, hidden from my wife who has occupied me, jjjjj, after joining the pieces, I realized that I will not be able to weld, because of the styrene pieces that I put, Oh man, I'm going to try a metal epoxy glue So far for today. wunwinglow, TorbenD, Landrotten Highlander and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted December 20, 2019 Share Posted December 20, 2019 I had been assuming when you said 'weld' you meant soldered. I can see you have actually welded! If you have used tubes for the tail boom, glue pegs into the tubes and drill holes in the styrene for them. I do this with brass struts on plastic models If the tail boom is made of solid rod - I think your helicopter is going to sit down on it's tail! Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aluxe Posted December 23, 2019 Author Share Posted December 23, 2019 Richard indeed, so I imagined solving it, drilling holes and joining styrene and brass. and I'm also thinking that the tail will be really heavy, so I'll be thinking about avence, how to solve, This kit model brings me surprises as I go along. here with a small advance, the central frame, the measures play against me, next to the piece of the model, it does not look very good, I will adjust and change some brass tubes that seem short until next time ShelbyGT500, USMC Herc, Cheetah11 and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aluxe Posted December 24, 2019 Author Share Posted December 24, 2019 I think it's worked the metal epoxy resin. Uncarina, Alain Gadbois, Out2gtcha and 9 others 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aluxe Posted December 26, 2019 Author Share Posted December 26, 2019 I use the fuel tank, sand to remove contours and with styrene sheets, I remake it I try to reproduce the details of the tank, I take advantage of installing Eduard photoeatch parts Buster99, Kagemusha, ShelbyGT500 and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted December 26, 2019 Share Posted December 26, 2019 Wow, awesome work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themongoose Posted December 26, 2019 Share Posted December 26, 2019 After seeing that fuel tank i have no doubt that balancing that heavy tail will be NO problem . Nice work. someone mentioned above clamping parts when you have to solder near another previously done joint. I went to a class at IPMS this year and the intructor showed us how he used 2 different temp solders. Start with the high temp and then use low temp when you do the 2nd set of joints. Thought I’d share in hopes it helps anyone out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aluxe Posted December 27, 2019 Author Share Posted December 27, 2019 oh yes, Themo, I take advantage of putting some weight, I hope it is enough, so weak are the supports of the landing skate, Thanks for the tips, I hope to put them into practice. we put some more pieces of the Eduard set Now it is up to the transmission of the tail rotor, the idea is to recover the bearings and use styrene tube. In the end I preferred to use brass tube Anthony in NZ, Uncarina, Alain Gadbois and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aluxe Posted January 4, 2020 Author Share Posted January 4, 2020 Hi Guys a small breakthrough, I recovered from the original model the bases that support the rolls that lead the tail rotor direction cable, the rolls are styrene round, and now to start working in the crew cabin and if the weight was not enough for balance, I will apply weight inside, until I achieve it Cheetah11, rafju, Landrotten Highlander and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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