HH-60G Pavehawk Kitty Hawk 1/35 DONE!!

[Hawkwrench]

Just simply mind-blowing. Looks like looking down the real thing! Can't wait for you start the instrument panel and center console. 

 

Tim 

[chrish]

That is absolutely incredible work!

[Lothar]

Magic, pure magic 

Lothar

[Rogier77]

This is absolute brilliant work. Very stunning. 

[Pete Fleischmann]

Hey all-

ran a few wire harnesses- with these in place I can start loading up the aft bulkhead. The fine steel line from ANYZ is going to get a workout on this build, as much of the gear is hung from improvised cables running all over the place-

 

 

having fun-

 

cheers

 

Pete

[CZPetrP]

Hi Pete,

 

R E S P E C T !

It's extremely detailed and amazing.

I wish you a lot of strength to do the next job.

 

heers

Petr

[chrish]

WOW......Yet again!!

[Hawkwrench]

Just saw your blood bag. Yeah, definitely make it alot darker. 

That floor armor looks way cool all weathered.  How did you make it, paint it and weather it???

 

Tim

Edited April 3, 2020 by Hawkwrench

[dodgem37]

Fun for everyone!  What you're doing is remarkable.  Thank you for sharing, Pete.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

[Pete Fleischmann]

11 hours ago, Hawkwrench said:

Just saw your blood bag. Yeah, definitely make it alot darker. 

That floor armor looks way cool all weathered.  How did you make it, paint it and weather it???

 

Tim

 

Hi Tim-

for the floor, I covered the floor with Gorilla Taped and burnished it down to create a pattern for the tie-down locations. I transferred this pattern to .005 sheet styrene, and made the individual armor plates from that. I sanded off all of the molded-in no skid strips. The plates were glued onto the floor.

the painting process starts with a base coat of MM jet exhaust for the main floor, and MM steel for the edges..plus a random smattering of steel on the floor-

 

Then, grab an aerosol can of hairspray and shoot all of this. It’ll dry pretty quick; but you can speed it up by hitting it with a hair dryer. Once dry, airbrush the yellow primer areas with a water-based paint: I used a yellow-green Tamiya mix- I also used a liquid masking film to mask the recessed tie down locations. Once the primer is dry, take a brush wet with tap water and rub away some of the primer to expose the metal underneath. Restraint is important.

 

When you are happy with that, shoot it all with a Barrier coat of enamel/lacquer  clear flat. I used MM lacquer flat. You want something that is not water soluble for this step to protect the hard work you just did from the next step.

Once the lacquer coat is dry, give it another shot of hairspray- let the hairspray dry.

now shoot the floor with Tamiya NATO black. Let it dry. When it is; grab a brush wet with water and rub away the black to expose the areas you want to be weathered. Also, I used a sharpened tooth pick to make random scratches on the floor. 

Finally I used a wash of Ammo dust on the floor- it is enamel based and won’t attack the Tamiya NATO black-

 

 

This is a layered process..alternating layers of water-based paint with enamels where you use water to remove the water based paint to weather. The hairspray underneath the water based paint (Tamiya in this case) reacts with the water from the wet brush and chips away the paint. 

 

HTH

 

Pete

[Gazzas]

Holy smokes, man!  There ain't enough ways to say how floored I am by the quality of this build.  WTG, Pete!

[Pete Fleischmann]

Hey all-

I have a ton of stuff to load out the cabin..and was trapped in analyses paralysis for a while..but I think I’m sorting out what goes where- the trick is to make it look random, cluttered, and believable..while leaving room for the figures and the K9..

getting there-

 

 

cheers

 

Pete

[Pete Fleischmann]

Also- 

 

check out out this awesome reference photo..each tail rotor blade has different placards! What the?

 

..especially the one at the 10:00 position-

can you imagine the frowning and snickers from Contest judges!? Almost HAVE to do it that way-

 

 

 

cheers

 

Pete

[Hawkwrench]

Pete, that's the air force for ya.

The T/R information markings are supposed to be at the inside edge closest to the hub.

 

Tim

[Timmy!]

And the verbiage is all different.  It has the specific weight and balance info for each blade.  All used for track and balance of the rotor system.  You don’t know the hell of a TR track and balance day as an FCF guy.  Almost as bad as an engine shaft!