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HH-60G Pavehawk Kitty Hawk 1/35 DONE!!


Pete Fleischmann

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16 hours ago, Pete Fleischmann said:

...amazing that my bench is 7ft long but I always end up working in about 2 square ft..

 

8 hours ago, geedubelyer said:

 

:lol:

 

Apparently it's a sign of genius my friend. At least that's what I keep telling myself. ;)

 

Lovely work Pete. Happy New Year buddy. :thumbsup:

 

Must be contagious...in my case, it's a 5 ft long bench reduced to 6 sq in working area! lol :)

 

Great work Pete - it's going to look spectacular when completed.

 

Derek

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16 hours ago, Pete Fleischmann said:


Hi Craig,

My plan is to snapshot the main and tail rotors- 

The Pavehawk hoist control has a hand held grip controller on about 10ft of coiled cord that connects to the control box on the right side of the cabin. My crewchief is holding the remote control in his right hand, and guiding the cable with his left. This is because of limitations I had when building this figure from components of other figures- he is a Frankenfigure and was created out of body parts from several figures. His arms were from figures shooting M4 rifles, and they are for a right-handed shooter..I couldn’t find any lefty’s. If I could have found a right arm extended from a left handed shooter, it would have been great, but no luck..so I had to improvise-

 

cheers

 

P

 

Hey Pete,

 

Thanks very much for the reply!!! Makes perfect sense!!! Consider my curiosity satisfied :)

 

Craig

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Hey all-

no self respecting combat pilot would fly a sortie without a full compliment of chaff and flares- problem is, Kitty Hawk didn’t get the memo, and included only blank plates for the chaff/flare dispensers that are appropriate for a training mission, but not my display.

I found some ALE-40 chaff and flare faces in my spares and cut them to fit the boxes.

to paint the individual flares, first shoot the face with MM jet exhaust. Let it dry, and then take any water based paint (in this case Vallejo 817) and wash it over the face, letting the paint settle in the recessed spots for the flares. Before it sets up, wipe the surface with a damp flat Q-tip, and just the red for the flares will be left behind. Come back later with the same MM jet exhaust and dry brush the face

gA61zNV.jpg

 

cheers

 

Pete

Edited by Pete Fleischmann
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Hey all,

finally got the “disco light” figured out-

I made several of these; starting with the kit part, 2 different ones from Shapeways, and then finally grabbing this one from my very excellent Zactomodels OH-58 Kiowa Warrior update set. I tried several different types of adhesive iridescent film- finally using one from Japan who’s name escapes me right now- Dave Roof makes an excellent disco light as well, but I never got to it- I’ll use it to replace the light I stole from the Zactomodels set.

DMNgCPk.jpg

8Fmwhye.jpg

 

Creating a convincing, reflective disco light was one of the most challenging parts of this build so far- I feel like I got close, and learned a lot in the process-

 

cheers

 

Pete

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4 hours ago, Pete Fleischmann said:

I tried several different types of adhesive iridescent film- finally using one from Japan who’s name escapes me right now

 

Pete, when you find that name PLEASE let us know. That sort of film can serve a number of purposes (Armor modeling too).

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1 hour ago, Mr Matt Foley said:

 

Pete, when you find that name PLEASE let us know. That sort of film can serve a number of purposes (Armor modeling too).

 

If you want iridescent film, you can buy a roll from Michaels or some other craft store that is used as "Mylar" for wrapping gifts, etc.  I have a 3 foot roll that will last me the rest of my life for about $6.  It comes in different colors too, but the greenish one is best for HUD's etc.  To apply with no glue marks, I simply use Future on a paintbrush.

 

SLxivw.jpg

 

 

Great looking light Pete and sorry for the mini-hijack!  I will fade away now.....

 

Cheers,

Chuck

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3 hours ago, chuck540z3 said:

 

If you want iridescent film, you can buy a roll from Michaels or some other craft store that is used as "Mylar" for wrapping gifts, etc.  I have a 3 foot roll that will last me the rest of my life for about $6.  It comes in different colors too, but the greenish one is best for HUD's etc.  To apply with no glue marks, I simply use Future on a paintbrush.

 

SLxivw.jpg

 

 

Great looking light Pete and sorry for the mini-hijack!  I will fade away now.....

 

Cheers,

Chuck

 

Thanks Chuck. I'll look into that.

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