Out2gtcha Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 Wow, that's super cool! Super delicate looking too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted January 2, 2020 Author Share Posted January 2, 2020 Thanks Brian. Delicate it is indeed. I'm curious how this will transport to contests. I'll be sure to bring CA and Epoxy along. As careful as I was during final stages of assembly I broke and had to fix: Joystick 3 times Cleat on skids 2 times Tubular framing at various locations 5 times Will be posting WIP images over the next few days. My PhotoBucket account was down for almost 2 weeks. Happy 2020. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radub Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 Beautiful model, Rick! Radu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted January 2, 2020 Author Share Posted January 2, 2020 15 minutes ago, Radub said: Beautiful model, Rick! Radu Thanks Radu. I used your Turnbuckles on the rotor blade rigging. Details when I post the correlating WIP pics. Happy 2020! Radub 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted January 2, 2020 Author Share Posted January 2, 2020 Fa330 build update will resume with the following disclaimer. PHOTO BUCKET DRAMA BAD NEWS I was locked out of my Photo Bucket account for almost 2 weeks. GOOD NEWS Access resumed a few days ago. BAD NEWS About a dozen early build images were lost. MORE BAD NEWS When I move images to Photo Bucket I will delete any duplicate images on my laptop, xternal HD, etc GOOD NEWS Updates coming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcleon Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 Hi Rick! That is just beautiful! Great detail and very neat modelling - I will learn a lot as I continue on mine! Thanks for posting! Marc. Rick K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted January 2, 2020 Author Share Posted January 2, 2020 (edited) The parachute pack gets some scratch love with styrene rod replacing the pe retainers. .33mm styrene rod wrapped around a mandrel and heated with hair dryer. Then trimmed to desired shape. I added kit decals and data plate decals from MDC at this stage as I want to lessen any opportunities for breaking delicate stuff. GasPatch rigging eyelets attached to rotor blades then painted. Data plates also added to each blade. Edited January 2, 2020 by Rick K MikeC, themongoose, Landrotten Highlander and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted January 2, 2020 Author Share Posted January 2, 2020 13 minutes ago, Marcleon said: Hi Rick! That is just beautiful! Great detail and very neat modelling - I will learn a lot as I continue on mine! Thanks for posting! Marc. Cheers Marc. Any assist I can offer, just ask. Good luck with your Fa330. I'm watching. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted January 2, 2020 Author Share Posted January 2, 2020 (edited) One of my biggest issues with any short run injection kit is lack of locator holes or pins. Fly's Fa330 is no different. To get the correct rotor angle I enlarged the top view profile drawing on the last page of the instructions. I drilled .5mm holes on the rotor hub for the 3 outriggers. Then with a small drop of CA glue the hub to the enlarged profile view of rotors. Carefully drill a .5mm in each outrigger. Inserting a .5mm brass rod with just about 2mm exposed will give enough for the brass rod to align and keep the outrigger in place while epoxy cures. Prior to inserting the brass rod I decided to create the turnbuckle for the rigging. Using a .5mm aluminum tube and Ultra Wire extra small I created turn buckles. The aluminum tube will bend very easy and that's a good thing. Turnbuckle is inserted and secured with epoxy. After epoxy cure (i gave it 3 days) you can carefully bend the turn buckle to the proper angle. *Outrigger and rotor blade are dry fitted. Take photo etch piece #18 and carefully align with the outriggers. This is where you very carefully bend each outrigger to align with #18. Once in place secure with epoxy and let cure for a few days. After outriggers are cured it's now time to glue the rotor blades to the rotor hub. Using LEGO pieces come in handy to give the rotor blades desired pitch. Make sure the rotor blade shaft ends are clean of any paint. Same goes for the mount holes on the rotor hub. If they are not clear the possibility the epoxy will not hold. While epoxy is setting align rotor blade and place the Lego piece to give desired angle. I've seen varying degrees of angles on actual photos and a real Fa330. All ranging from Droopy to Neutral to Upward. I elected to go with a neutral with a slight rise. It's up to the builder. *15 minute epoxy will afford plenty of time for fine adjustments. Once satisfied...walk away for 2 days. Let the epoxy cure. Edited January 3, 2020 by Rick K MikeC, chukw, themongoose and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted January 3, 2020 Author Share Posted January 3, 2020 (edited) Let the rigging begin. INFINI Medium 110 (.121mm) Black Lycra thread will be used for Rotor Blade rigging. Begin with the Outrigger to Rotor. Secure with tape. This is stretchy so tug just a little so its taught. Radu P32023 Rigging Turnbuckles are used for each line. In lieu of tying at each eyelet thread the string through. This will allow position adjustment of turnbuckle later on. The rigging from rotor blade to another is one line fed through the eyelets on the rotor wings. be sure to install Radu's turnbuckle before securing the next rotor rigging. Last outrigger done. Secure with drop of CA then carefully trim with fresh blade. Rotor blade rigging complete. At this point you can carefully slide the turnbuckles to desired position. Test fit of rotor assembly on mast. Color me happy. INFINI Medium is used for rudder, joystick cables and skid brace. EZ Line Medium is used for joystick pulley cable EZ Line is flat and works well on the wheels at joystick base and mast base. Edited January 3, 2020 by Rick K Out2gtcha, chukw, themongoose and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 Very nice work, Rick! Kev Rick K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted January 3, 2020 Author Share Posted January 3, 2020 10 hours ago, LSP_Kevin said: Very nice work, Rick! Kev Thanks Kev. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Molitor Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 Wow. The detail going into this one is simply amazing to witness Rick. Awesome work here. The LEGO rotor setting apparatus is also funny to see in action. Regards, Troy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted January 3, 2020 Author Share Posted January 3, 2020 (edited) The most intimidating step for me will be the instrument panel. The attachment of the IP to front tube will be executed as I noticed on the real Fa330. I drilled out the with a 7mm drill and used Ultra Wire size medium/gray. Once wire is secured to the IP the wire will be fed into the front tube and secured with epoxy. The resin pitot tube provided is replaced with scratch work. New pitot tube was fashioned with 5.mm aluminum tube and glued to the styrene strips with epoxy. At bottom one 2mm disc and one 3mm disc punched from sheet styrene are used to split bottom. A .30mm hole is drilled on each strip to accept the exposed wire from the braided thread. The pitot mount is secured to IP with thin cement. The photoetch panel with bezels is glued to the kit IP. Seat cushion painted Gunze RLM 81. Panel painted with Gunze RLM 66. IP wire is ANYZ .5mm braided thread with Ultra Wire xsmall threaded inside the braided thread to hold the bends and shapes. I lost the build images of this. The IP wires are attached to the pitot mount. The other ANYZ .5mm braided thread runs from base of rotor mount along frame to the IP and will be secured after IP is installed. IP painted and MDC Luftwaffe IP dial decals used. You can see where the wire IP mount will fit in front of tube. A toothpick and clay alignment jig is fashioned to keep the IP assembly in position. Notice the white wire behind the seat cushion and halfway up the main mast? Think belt locators. While epoxy cures HGW seatbelts are used in lieu of the photoetch belts provided. I loathe the time needed to assemble these textile belts. However, the end result is well worth the effort. Edited January 3, 2020 by Rick K LSP_Kevin, Landrotten Highlander, chukw and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted January 3, 2020 Author Share Posted January 3, 2020 24 minutes ago, Troy Molitor said: Wow. The detail going into this one is simply amazing to witness Rick. Awesome work here. The LEGO rotor setting apparatus is also funny to see in action. Regards, Troy Thanks Troy. My son is happy to see his LEGO helping me with my bench work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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