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Thanks Brian.  Delicate it is indeed.  I'm curious how this will transport to contests.  I'll be sure to bring CA and Epoxy along.

 

As careful as I was during final stages of assembly I broke and had to fix:

  • Joystick 3 times
  • Cleat on skids 2 times
  • Tubular framing at various locations 5 times

 

Will be posting WIP images over the next few days.  My PhotoBucket account was down for almost 2 weeks.

 

Happy 2020.

 

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Fa330 build update will resume with the following disclaimer.

 

PHOTO BUCKET DRAMA

 

BAD NEWS

I was locked out of my Photo Bucket account for almost 2 weeks. 

 

GOOD NEWS

Access resumed a few days ago. 

 

BAD NEWS

About a dozen early build images were lost.

 

MORE BAD NEWS

When I move images to Photo Bucket I will delete any duplicate images on my laptop, xternal HD, etc

 

GOOD NEWS

Updates coming

 

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The parachute pack gets some scratch love with styrene rod replacing the pe retainers. 

 

Fa330.1.001.jpg

.33mm styrene rod wrapped around a mandrel and heated with hair dryer.  Then trimmed to desired shape.

 

Fa330.1.02.jpg

 

Fa330.1.03.jpg

I added kit decals and data plate decals from MDC at this stage as I want to lessen any opportunities for breaking delicate stuff.

 

Fa330.1.04.jpg

 

Fa330.1.05.jpg

GasPatch rigging eyelets attached to rotor blades then painted.  Data plates also added to each blade.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Rick K
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13 minutes ago, Marcleon said:

Hi Rick! That is just beautiful! Great detail and very neat modelling - I will learn a lot as I continue on mine! Thanks for posting! Marc.

Cheers Marc.

 

Any assist I can offer, just ask.  Good luck with your Fa330.  I'm watching.

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One of my biggest issues with any short run injection kit is lack of locator holes or pins.  Fly's Fa330 is no different.  To get the correct rotor angle I enlarged the top view profile drawing on the last page of the instructions.

 

I drilled .5mm holes on the rotor hub for the 3 outriggers.  Then with a small drop of CA glue the hub to the enlarged profile view of rotors.

 

Carefully drill a .5mm in each outrigger.  Inserting a .5mm brass rod with just about 2mm exposed will give enough for the brass rod to align and keep the outrigger in place while epoxy cures.  Prior to inserting the brass rod I decided to create the turnbuckle for the rigging.

 

Fa330.1.06_1.jpg

 

P40_Rigging.05.jpg

Using a .5mm aluminum tube and Ultra Wire extra small I created turn buckles.  The aluminum tube will bend very easy and that's a good thing.

 

Fa330.1.07.jpg

Turnbuckle is inserted and secured with epoxy.  After epoxy cure (i gave it 3 days) you can carefully bend the turn buckle to the proper angle.

*Outrigger and rotor blade are dry fitted.

 

Fa330.1.08.jpg

Take photo etch piece #18 and carefully align with the outriggers.  This is where you very carefully bend each outrigger to align with #18.  Once in place secure with epoxy and let cure for a few days.

 

Fa330.1.09.jpg

After outriggers are cured it's now time to glue the rotor blades to the rotor hub.  Using LEGO pieces come in handy to give the rotor blades desired pitch.

 

Fa330.1.10.jpg

Make sure the rotor blade shaft ends are clean of any paint.  Same goes for the mount holes on the rotor hub.  If they are not clear the possibility the epoxy will not hold.

 

While epoxy is setting align rotor blade and place the Lego piece to give desired angle.  I've seen varying degrees of angles on actual photos and a real Fa330.  All ranging from Droopy to Neutral to Upward.  I elected to go with a neutral with a slight rise.  It's up to the builder.

 

*15 minute epoxy will afford plenty of time for fine adjustments.  Once satisfied...walk away for 2 days.  Let the epoxy cure.

Edited by Rick K
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Let the rigging begin.   INFINI Medium 110 (.121mm) Black Lycra thread will be used for Rotor Blade rigging.

 

Fa330.1.15.jpg


 

 

Fa330.1.12.jpg

Begin with the Outrigger to Rotor.  Secure with tape.  This is stretchy so tug just a little so its taught.  Radu P32023 Rigging Turnbuckles are used for each line.  In lieu of tying at each eyelet thread the string through.  This will allow position adjustment of turnbuckle later on.

 

Fa330.1.14.jpg

The rigging from rotor blade to another is one line fed through the eyelets on the rotor wings.  be sure to install Radu's turnbuckle before securing the next rotor rigging.

 

Fa330.1.13.jpg

 

Fa330.1.15.jpg

Last outrigger done.  Secure with drop of CA then carefully trim with fresh blade.

 

Fa330.1.17.jpg

Rotor blade rigging complete.  At this point you can carefully slide the turnbuckles to desired position.

 

Fa330.1.19.jpg

Test fit of rotor assembly on mast.  Color me happy. 

 

Fa330.1.21.jpg

INFINI Medium is used for rudder, joystick cables and skid brace.  EZ Line Medium is used for joystick pulley cable EZ Line is flat and works well on the wheels at joystick base and mast base.

 

 

 

Edited by Rick K
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The most intimidating step for me will be the instrument panel.  The attachment of the IP to front tube will be executed as I noticed on the real Fa330.  I drilled out the with a 7mm drill and used  Ultra Wire size medium/gray.  Once wire is secured to the IP the wire will be fed into the front tube and secured with epoxy.

 

The resin pitot tube provided is replaced with scratch work.  New pitot tube was fashioned with 5.mm aluminum tube and glued to the styrene strips with epoxy.  At bottom one 2mm disc and one 3mm disc punched from sheet styrene are used to split bottom.  A .30mm hole is drilled on each strip to accept the exposed wire from the braided thread.

 

The pitot mount is secured to IP with thin cement.  The photoetch panel with bezels is glued to the kit IP.

 

Fa330.1.23.jpg

 

Fa330.1.24.jpg

 

Fa330.1.22.jpg

 

Fa330.1.25.jpg

Seat cushion painted Gunze RLM 81.  Panel painted with Gunze RLM 66.  IP wire is ANYZ .5mm braided thread with Ultra Wire xsmall threaded inside the braided thread to hold the bends and shapes.  I lost the build images of this.  :(

 

The IP wires are attached to the pitot mount.  The other ANYZ .5mm braided thread runs from base of rotor mount along frame to the IP and will be secured after IP is installed.

 

Fa330.1.26.jpg

IP painted and MDC Luftwaffe IP dial decals used.  You can see where the wire IP mount will fit in front of tube.

 

Fa330.1.27.jpg

A toothpick and clay alignment jig is fashioned to keep the IP assembly in position. 

 

Notice the white wire behind the seat cushion and halfway up the main mast?  Think belt locators.

 

While epoxy cures HGW seatbelts are used in lieu of the photoetch belts provided.

Fa330.1.32.jpg

I loathe the time needed to assemble these textile belts.  However, the end result is well worth the effort.

 

 

Edited by Rick K
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24 minutes ago, Troy Molitor said:

Wow.   The detail going into this one is simply amazing to witness Rick.  Awesome work here.  

The LEGO rotor setting apparatus is also funny to see in action.   

 

Regards,

 

Troy 

Thanks Troy.  My son is happy to see his LEGO helping me with my bench work.

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