AlexM Posted November 1, 2019 Share Posted November 1, 2019 Hi there, I just uploaded the 3d models for the new nose section on the Sketchup Warehouse, where everyone can download it. Due to its size, it is divided into three parts: https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/5bb50881-142c-4842-ac8a-4bbba9c9a69a/B-24D-132-Hobby-Boss-Alternative-Nose-Part-1 https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/8775800f-7d9a-4641-a034-056da43f8e31/B-24D-132-Hobby-Boss-Alternative-Nose-Part-2 https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/698a848c-e8cd-430b-87b8-041a7535bffb/B-24D-132-Hobby-Boss-Alternative-Nose-Part-3 Tomorrow, I'll post some new pictues of the printed parts. Here is the whole description: Scale of the 3d-models is 1/32 x 1000. So, for 3d-printing, the parts must be scaled down to 0,1% in the printing software. It consists of 3 parts. The first part contains some plan drawings and basic inner and outer fuselage halves. It also contains a 3d-model that can help to remove the forward section of the fuselage from the Hobby Boss kit with a scriber or saw. The second part contains the actual fuselage section for 3d-printing, as well some interior frames and the ring for the upper cupula. The fuselage section consist of both halves, 0,5 mm apart, with a recessed line between, and a rear extension. After printing, if will probably benefit from primer and sanding. Once you are satisfied with the surface of the printed part, the rear extension can be cut/sawed away. Then the two halves can be separated along the recessed line. The red areas of the 3d-model must be removed after printing. The recessed areas for the small side windows show 4 small holes. After printing, these can be widened with a 2 mm drill to achieve the rounded corners of the windows. For the forward frame, I suggest printing with a resin printer, while the rest can be printed with a FDM-printer. The third part contains the parts for vacuforming for the side windows and the clear nose. ATTENTION: The part for the clear nose is far from perfect, and definitely needs more sanding after printing, especially at the red area of the 3d-model to get rid of the bump shape. The third part also contains a template for the interior floor. Make a screenshot viewed from above, print it on paper with the square 10 cm large, glue it on a thin sheet of styrene, cut out, glue it on the actual floor part of the Hobby Boss kit, and sand this to shape. I encourage everyone to modify and improve these parts. Happy modeling! Cheers Alex LSP_Kevin, Dave T, adameliclem and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 Here are some pics of the printed and vacuforemd nose: The plan to put clear vacuformed pieces into recessed ares to recreats the side windows seems to work.All parts were printed with a normal FDM printer, exept the forward frame which, once glued to the fuselage parts, enables a more or less troublefree attachment of the vacuformed nose. You can also see the modified floor part from the Hobby Boss kit. Cheers Alex alanash1963, Dennis7423, blackbetty and 14 others 17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 (edited) The "fun" part will be to glue the printed parts to the kit's fuselage, and somehow create convincing surface details (I hate scribing panel lines ) Not to mention the rivets... Edited November 2, 2019 by AlexM alanash1963, nmayhew and Out2gtcha 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misha71 Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 8 hours ago, AlexM said: Here are some pics of the printed and vacuforemd nose: 8 hours ago, AlexM said: The plan to put clear vacuformed pieces into recessed ares to recreats the side windows seems to work.All parts were printed with a normal FDM printer, exept the forward frame which, once glued to the fuselage parts, enables a more or less troublefree attachment of the vacuformed nose. You can also see the modified floor part from the Hobby Boss kit. Cheers Alex Thank you alex for this great work alanash1963, Out2gtcha and AlexM 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brahman104 Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 I've just caught up on this. Brilliant work Alex! One day when I get to my B-24 I'll try out your drawings...... many thanks!!!!! Craig AlexM 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Jack Posted November 9, 2019 Share Posted November 9, 2019 (edited) Lucky they didn’t make a B-24H. They were manufactured at the Willow Run Facility in Detroit , actually Ramulus, at a rate of one every 55 minutes. I could never hope to build a 32nd scale 24 that fast. Edited November 9, 2019 by Fred Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Jack Posted November 10, 2019 Share Posted November 10, 2019 Most all people have ever seen a 24D, so they would not know what is wrong or right, this also means manufacturers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cicchino Posted November 14, 2019 Share Posted November 14, 2019 Alex, for those of us without access to a 3D printer, any recommendations on how to obtain this correction set? Maybe you other LSPers would be willing to produce a copy for purchase? All help appreciated, John Cicchino Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Mike Posted November 14, 2019 Share Posted November 14, 2019 Nice work Alex. This is the new wave of modeling. How far we have come! Can a 3d printer do the surface detail, or would it be better to take a part, detail it, and resin cast it? Also, is it possible to 3d print a master to clear cast resin turrets from? That would solve a lot of problems for some. Dennis7423 and AlexM 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted November 16, 2019 Share Posted November 16, 2019 On 11/14/2019 at 12:23 PM, Cicchino said: Alex, for those of us without access to a 3D printer, any recommendations on how to obtain this correction set? Maybe you other LSPers would be willing to produce a copy for purchase? All help appreciated, John Cicchino Hi John, I'm not sure making a bussines would be legally sound for me, since I made the 3d-models with the free version of Sketchup. I guess I would need fee-based a Pro licence before I could rightfully start selling parts created with this software.. Before I got my own printers, I used 3d-printing service providers via https://www.3dhubs.com/. There, I found reasonalble cheap providers back then. I suppose there are other providers as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted November 16, 2019 Share Posted November 16, 2019 On 11/14/2019 at 12:43 PM, LSP_Mike said: Nice work Alex. This is the new wave of modeling. How far we have come! Can a 3d printer do the surface detail, or would it be better to take a part, detail it, and resin cast it? Also, is it possible to 3d print a master to clear cast resin turrets from? That would solve a lot of problems for some. Hi Mike, I suppose when printing such pars with a resin printer, somewhat satisfying surface details could be achieved (when you are able to createt those details on the 3d-model - which proves to be challenging for me ). I once printed the forward fuselage section with my resin printer (Anycubic Photon). Once printed, such resin parts need further curing with UV-light. Thereby, I experienced much warping of the part what made the part more or less unusable. So in this regard there is still much to learn for me to achieve good results. Then, there is the challenge to glue large resin parts to the styrene fuselage of the kit... Therefore, I printed all parts (with the exeption of the very forward frame where the clear nose is attached) with a FDM printer using a printing filament called HIPS what stands for High Impact Polystyrene. Such parts can be glued with ordinary modeling cement to the styrene kit parts. Theoretically, you could print such parts with surface details, but those details propably wouldn't tourn out sharp enought. And parts printed that way will always need further sanding, no matter how high the printing resolution (meaning fine layer hight) is, so the printed panel lines are likely to disappear in this process. Meanwhile, I glued the printed fuselage sections to the kit. parts. Once attached, I glued an Evergreen styrene rod along the seam, and sanded it down. Then the seam got a thick layer of old (orange) paint to fill up small gapes, and was sanded as well. Now I have to scribe some panel lines (did I mention I hate scribing panel lines ). After that, I'll spry some primer so see how it all tourned out. Cheers Alex Trak-Tor, leoasman, Uncarina and 10 others 12 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted November 17, 2019 Share Posted November 17, 2019 Nice work, Alex! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis7423 Posted November 17, 2019 Share Posted November 17, 2019 I have to hand it to you Alex, this is damn impressive! You make it look so easy. I second the comments about working on a mold for the turrets! - Dennis S. Thornton, CO USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alain Gadbois Posted November 17, 2019 Share Posted November 17, 2019 On 11/16/2019 at 8:50 AM, AlexM said: Hi John, I'm not sure making a bussines would be legally sound for me, since I made the 3d-models with the free version of Sketchup. I guess I would need fee-based a Pro licence before I could rightfully start selling parts created with this software.. Before I got my own printers, I used 3d-printing service providers via https://www.3dhubs.com/. There, I found reasonalble cheap providers back then. I suppose there are other providers as well. I don't think there would be any problem because you own the rights to your work and the software is just a tool like any other. And why would they care, really? Alain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seiran01 Posted November 17, 2019 Share Posted November 17, 2019 Agree with Alain. Especially if you just use it to print a master and then use more traditional techniques after that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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