Jump to content

Hasegawa F-4EJ Eggplane


Greg W

Recommended Posts

In the mail today, I received a Master Model detail set which is a 1:72 version of the 1:48 details shown earlier in the thread. I immediately opened the package and took a couple quick pictures comparing the pitot tubes. 

 

I am going to go with the 1:72 version which I think looks perfect. 

 

50552166723_48b86c9ca1_b.jpg

 

 

50552904196_56f1153262_b.jpg

 

 

50552168418_b9b09a6423_b.jpg

 

1:48

49620815272_51a6c6047d_b.jpg

 

1:72

50553035647_728e7bd324_b.jpg

 

1:48

49620544996_c66aeafc3b_b.jpg

 

1:72

50552171258_1a26a53471_b.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
On 11/23/2020 at 7:43 PM, Michael931080 said:

Any New Updates GDW??

 

 

Not just yet but soon. This project was set aside to push another model on the bench over the finish line, which is almost done. Also, I have needed to think about and decide, how many more details or features I want to add.

 

Here are the final additions that I've arrived at before calling it quits and moving on to paint: 

 

Hinge detail for stabilators out of thin plastic sheet.

20201123_223155

 

 

Scoops for cabin air conditioning. One one each side.

20201123_221932

 

-Add red and green wingtip lights

 

- Red light on leading edge of vertical fin.

 

- Figure out something for the formation lights. Hopefully, I can find some 1:72 photo etch frames, or failing that, good looking decals.

 

Sound good? So far, thats the plan. 

 

Greg

Edited by Greg W
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This evening I went after one of the jobs on the list above. I was in the mood to see if I could figure something out for the intakes on the lower forward fuselage. 

 

Rummaging through my kits, I found two air scoops that fit the bill, in the old, Monogram 1:48 F-105D kit. 

 

20201129_151802

 

Part number twenty one, shown on step six.

 

20201129_193901

 

20201129_151649

 

About two thirds of the length was removed from each scoop, then the aft portion was shaped with a course sanding stick. Then, the parts were sanded with progressively finer grit sanding sticks until smooth. The pictures below show them just after being attached with Tamiya Extra Thin cement.

 

20201129_192811

 

20201129_193236

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Next up, more work on the tail.

 

I cut two notches into the vertical fin, so that I could add the 1:72 Master Details ram air inlet and the red light. The top notch was made to facilitate drilling the 0.6mm hole for the fine brass part. I will build up the carved away leading edge with thin CA.

 

20201206_143913

 

20201206_143951

 

 

I was going to use clear red sprue for the light but my friend and fellow club member Randy, gave me something that I like much better. Neither of us knows what it is though. If anyone out there is familiar with it, please tell me what it is. It looks like an acrylic rod with fiber optic powers. Just ambient room light will illuminate it. I would like to buy more colors and sizes but I do not know what to shop for. Pic below...

 

20201206_144147

 

I scraped a section of the rod flat, so that the profile was almost half round. Over glued it in the notch, so that the thin CA would fill any gaps. Hit it with kicker and sanded to shape. It polished easily with a Flex-I-File polisher/finisher #3210 and a Flory Models green/white polishing stick as a final treatment.

 

Lots of super glue to fill gaps around the glowing alien plastic.  

20201206_145727

 

20201206_145545

 

Here is the tail with the finished light and the ram air inlet installed. The brass part is not glued in yet, will do that later. The light, as it is now, is too long. Final size will be set by a tape mask.

 

20201206_153003

 

20201206_153048

 

20201206_153320

 

20201206_155100

 

Edited by GDW
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/29/2020 at 8:16 PM, Michael931080 said:

Now that is some smart thinking!  Love it!

 

 

On 11/30/2020 at 8:47 AM, Shawn M said:

keeps getting better and better

 

 

Thank you gentlemen! 

 

Very nice to hear from you guys, as always.

 

Greg 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alain11 recently posted a method for painting the inside of afterburner cans in the tips and techniques part of the forum, link here. It was perfect timing because I had been wanting to finish the exhausts on this but I have not been confident in my ability to pull off something representational, let alone realistic. Happy to now have a game plan, I decided to finally tackle the exhausts once and for all. 

 

 

 First, the resin was painted with Tamiya enamel chrome silver. The photo etch part, as it comes in the package is bright silver to begin with.   

 

20200223_232939

 

20200223_233916

 

 

 

The insides of the turkey feathers were painted with a few light passes of Tamiya XF-2 flat white.

 

Tamiya XF-10 flat brown darkened with XF-1 flat black, was heavily thinned with alcohol and sprayed over the exhaust turbine areas. Multiple layers gradually built up the effect.  

 

20201209_163151

 

20201209_163555

 

 

 

Hard wire was bent to form clips that attach the short toothpick lengths to the AB can. The picture shows the first few that I made, which have flat tips. Subsequently, I sanded the ends to a point. 

 

20201209_195430

 

20201209_204331

 

20201209_233312

 

 

 

Tamiya X-19 smoke was then airbrushed rearward through the opening, exiting out the back of the can (I thinned the Tamiya smoke 1:1 with alcohol). Then, the toothpicks were removed and a few more passes with the smoke toned down the white and blended everything together.

 

 

The pictures were taken right after painting. A clear flat overcoat is needed to kill the gloss of the X-19. 

 

20201210_190423

 

20201210_182330

 

20201210_192820

 

20201210_192831

 

20201210_192912

 

Edited by GDW
Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the pictures, the smoke patterns look metallic. Almost like I sprayed aluminum paint. But its just a trick of my cell phone camera. The effect is much more subtle than my crappy cell photos suggest. After the flat coat dries, I will apply a Flory Models dark dirt wash and see how that looks. If I don't like it, I can wash it away with water. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, Michael931080 said:

Love this!!!!  Would never had thought of that method to paint the inside of the Burner Cans!

 

Definitely going to use that little trick!  Can hardly wait until your next post!

 

I wouldn't have either Michael, thank goodness for Alain's post! I have not done this well in the past so this technique is most welcome. 

 

 

16 hours ago, Rockie Yarwood said:

Love it! Great idea to use the bent wire to hold the toothpicks in place. I saw Alain's post and was thinking of using small dabs of Bluetack, but your solution is much better.

 

Cheers,

 

Rockie

 

I tried some cheep Blue Tack knock off. It wasn't sticky enough to hold the toothpicks in place. Maybe BT might? It certainly would be easier if it did. The problem I had was the tiny contact area available. The bits of BT have to be very small on a 1:48 F-4 after burner can. Worth a try on 1:32, especially if a really sticky putty is used.    

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

20201211_150015

 

The painted exhaust parts had a day to dry, so I felt comfortable giving the insides a wash. I used a very friendly, water based clay pigment wash from Flory Models. Worked great. A little time was spent removing and blending the wash with a mostly dry but slightly damp brush. The effect is noticeable but subtle, very much like a filter where blended and of course, darker in the recesses. 

 

 

The exterior of the exhausts, painted with Tamiya XF-1 flat black, were much easier to finish. I sanded the paint, starting with the most aggressive grit on my Flexifile sander/polisher, exposing much of the resin underneath. The white side of the polisher was used to smooth out any broken paint edges, pictured below:

 

20201211_151145

 

20201211_141501

 

20201211_141534

 

 

 

 

 

20201211_150028

 

Now, the pieces were ready for the application of some Ammo of Mig gunmetal pigment. I used a Q-tip to "paint" the outer leaves, working to keep the pigment out of the grooves in between. I put on a rubber glove and burnished the areas with my finger. The black paint and grey resin show through the polished pigment layer giving a varied look underneath. The way that the reflective metal sheen shifts with the viewing angle is very pleasing and realistic to my eye. 

 

20201211_145238

 

20201211_145137

 

20201211_145326_kindlephoto-226765637

 

20201211_145355

 

Edited by GDW
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...