Gazzas Posted September 7, 2019 Share Posted September 7, 2019 As often as possible I try to avoid using fillers adjacent to clear parts. But now I'm in a situation where I must. I have Milliput and Tamiya two-part fillers. Which would be better? Thanks! Gaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted September 7, 2019 Share Posted September 7, 2019 Milliput is pretty inert, and shouldn't give you any problems. I'm not as convinced about the Tamiya epoxy putties, but I find them difficult to work with anyway, so they'd rarely be my first choice. How big is your gap? If it's not huge, or structural, you may be able to get away with using white glue, something like Gators Grip, or even Microscale's Kristal Klear. These can all be cleaned up with a moistened cotton bud, and would require no sanding at all. Kev Lothar 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted September 8, 2019 Author Share Posted September 8, 2019 1 hour ago, LSP_Kevin said: How big is your gap? Kev Hi Kev, Thanks for replying. The gap is between 2-3MM between resin conversion parts and both clear and opaque plastic. So there will be a definite need for a solid, sand-able filler. My preferred filler would be CA and baking soda. But the clear part makes that a bit difficult. Cheers! Gaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBrown Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 Milliput can be can be contoured with a damp cotton bud (Q-tip) before it sets eliminating the need to sand. Lothar and Gazzas 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimHepplestone Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 Milliput will work but recently I’ve used a product called Perfect Plastic putty. It’s water soluble so can be cleaned with a damp finger, so also no sanding and it dries a lot faster than milliput Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 2 hours ago, TimHepplestone said: Milliput will work but recently I’ve used a product called Perfect Plastic putty. It’s water soluble so can be cleaned with a damp finger, so also no sanding and it dries a lot faster than milliput I too use PPP, and really like it. However, I found because its air dry/evap dry, it dries quite a bit less "solidly" than Milliput does, I'm assuming because it dries chemically. I use milliput over PPP when I need things very solid and rock hard, and/or when I need to bulk things up a bit more. I found PPP is not the perfect thing to use if you have a lot of space to make, or the thing your making it a bit larger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 I use PPP all the time, but I wouldn't use it for large gaps, or anything requiring some semblance of structural integrity. Kev Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ringleheim Posted September 19, 2019 Share Posted September 19, 2019 Gaz, For this type of stuff I use either Magi-Sculpt or Apoxie Sculpt. I have a lot of both on hand. It is pretty inert stuff and both are water soluble. I can't imagine either would fog clear plastic. Once the stuff is in the gap or crack that needs to be filled, you can moisten it and run a wet finger and/or Q-tip (cotton bud) along it and eliminate all, and I mean ALL, unwanted putty leaving a pristinely filled gap. If done correctly, you really should not be sanding anything after application. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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