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Will Millipit fog clear parts?

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Milliput is pretty inert, and shouldn't give you any problems. I'm not as convinced about the Tamiya epoxy putties, but I find them difficult to work with anyway, so they'd rarely be my first choice. How big is your gap? If it's not huge, or structural, you may be able to get away with using white glue, something like Gators Grip, or even Microscale's Kristal Klear. These can all be cleaned up with a moistened cotton bud, and would require no sanding at all.



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1 hour ago, LSP_Kevin said:

How big is your gap?




Hi Kev,

    Thanks for replying.  The gap is between 2-3MM between resin conversion parts and both clear and opaque plastic.  So there will be a definite need for a solid, sand-able filler.  My preferred filler would be CA and baking soda.  But the clear part makes that a bit difficult.





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2 hours ago, TimHepplestone said:

Milliput will work but recently I’ve used a product called Perfect Plastic putty. It’s water soluble so can be cleaned with a damp finger, so also no sanding and it dries a lot faster than milliput 



I too use PPP, and really like it. However, I found because its air dry/evap dry, it dries quite a bit less "solidly" than Milliput does, I'm assuming because it dries chemically. I use milliput over PPP when I need things very solid and rock hard, and/or when I need to bulk things up a bit more. I found PPP is not the perfect thing to use if you have a lot of space to make, or the thing your making it a bit larger. 

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  • 2 weeks later...



For this type of stuff I use either Magi-Sculpt or Apoxie Sculpt.


I have a lot of both on hand.  It is pretty inert stuff and both are water soluble.  I can't imagine either would fog clear plastic.


Once the stuff is in the gap or crack that needs to be filled, you can moisten it and run a wet finger and/or Q-tip (cotton bud) along it and eliminate all, and I mean ALL, unwanted putty leaving a pristinely filled gap.


If done correctly, you really should not be sanding anything after application.



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