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1/32 WNW Sopwith Pup


kensar

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I've started my first WNW model - the Sopwith Pup.  So far, the parts have fit together properly and there's been no drama.

 

WNW-Sopwith-Pup-01.jpg

 

The kit has options for 80 hp Gnome or 100 hp Gnome versions.  I built both engines and decided to go with one of the 80 hp versions - 'Baby Mine' as on the boxart.  Both engines had noticeable gaps between the front and back halves of the cylinders.  I probably should have sanded both halves flat before gluing them together, but the cowling hides most of the engine anyway.

 

80 hp Gnome engine.  The photos have over emphasized the colors.  They actually look much more subdued and realistic.

WNW-Sopwith-Pup-07.jpg

 

I have scratchbuilt the IP, thinking I could do better than the kit part.  Yea, I know the airspeed indicator is upside down.  Funny how you don't notice those things until its too late.

WNW-Sopwith-Pup-12.jpg

 

Other interior bits:

WNW-Sopwith-Pup-14.jpg
 

WNW-Sopwith-Pup-16.jpg

WNW-Sopwith-Pup-17.jpg

 

Thanks for looking.  Comments are welcome.

 

Edited by kensar
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Very nice. I just started my first WNW kit today and am loving it so far. I'm building the Sopwith Dolphin. One quick question. Did you use eyelets for the structural rigging? I can't tell from the photos. I've been trying to superglue directly to plastic and am not having very good luck. I'm thinking eyelets would make it easier.

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Hello AlbertD,

I hope you find the WNW kit as enjoyable to build as I am.

I did not use eyelets on the framework.  I drilled small holes (0.013") through the frame and threaded the monofilament through.  I used superglue to secure both ends of the rigging.

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6 minutes ago, kensar said:

Hello AlbertD,

I hope you find the WNW kit as enjoyable to build as I am.

I did not use eyelets on the framework.  I drilled small holes (0.013") through the frame and threaded the monofilament through.  I used superglue to secure both ends of the rigging.

Thanks for the reply. I'll be ready to rig my frame in the next few days and I'll follow your lead. Right now I'm working on getting the wooden frame to look like wood. So far so good.

 

Thanks for posting your progress. It really helps us newbies.

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I have put the cockpit together and prepped the fuse...

 

WNW-Sopwith-Pup-19.jpg

WNW-Sopwith-Pup-20.jpg

WNW-Sopwith-Pup-21.jpg

 

I added some binding on the tailskid as seen on some WW1 planes.

WNW-Sopwith-Pup-24.jpg
 

The pilot's seat sits very low in the fuse, so one would be able to see back into the fuselage.  I penciled in some shadowy details.

WNW-Sopwith-Pup-23.jpg

 

The fuselage is closed up now and I am turning my attention to some exterior details.

 

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Thanks for stopping by, guys.

 

"What did you use for the wrapping on the control stick grip and the tail skid?"

For the control stick, I used metal wire, which was pretty stiff for this application.  Not liking this, I used  tan sewing thread dipped in white glue for the tail skid wrapping.  If I do another control stick in the future, I will use sewing thread on that as well.

 

 

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Sure, Albert.  Its the 'standard' oil paint finish used by many builders of WW1 aircraft.  First I paint the part with a light tan color water based paint.  I use Tamiya desert yellow (its tan, not yellow).  Then break out the artist's oil paint.  I use raw Sienna or Burnt Sienna for a red colored wood, Raw Umber or Burnt Umber for a dark brown colored wood, like walnut, or I mix raw Sienna with some Yellow Ochre for a lighter colored wood.  If the oil paint is used out of the tube, it will take weeks to dry.  To speed up the drying time, I squeeze out some paint onto some brown cardboard and spread it out some.  The cardboard absorbs the oil in the paint.  After about 20 minutes or so, your'e ready to paint.  I also mix a little 'drying oil' (sold along with oil paints) with the paint to thin it out.  I may use some turpinoid (like turpentine), but not usually.  Now I apply the paint over the tan paint on the part.  Its better to use a coarse bristled brush to get a good wood grain effect.  Varying direction of the brush strokes also gives a nice wood grain.  Now set it aside for at least a week to dry to the touch.  Then overcoat with a clear coat or Tamiya clear yellow or clear orange.  Oil paints are a pain to use, but its the only type of paint I have found that works.

If you search around the web you'll find a number of tutorials on how to create wood grain using oil paints.

I hope this will help you out.

 

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13 hours ago, kensar said:

Sure, Albert.  Its the 'standard' oil paint finish used by many builders of WW1 aircraft.  First I paint the part with a light tan color water based paint.  I use Tamiya desert yellow (its tan, not yellow).  Then break out the artist's oil paint.  I use raw Sienna or Burnt Sienna for a red colored wood, Raw Umber or Burnt Umber for a dark brown colored wood, like walnut, or I mix raw Sienna with some Yellow Ochre for a lighter colored wood.  If the oil paint is used out of the tube, it will take weeks to dry.  To speed up the drying time, I squeeze out some paint onto some brown cardboard and spread it out some.  The cardboard absorbs the oil in the paint.  After about 20 minutes or so, your'e ready to paint.  I also mix a little 'drying oil' (sold along with oil paints) with the paint to thin it out.  I may use some turpinoid (like turpentine), but not usually.  Now I apply the paint over the tan paint on the part.  Its better to use a coarse bristled brush to get a good wood grain effect.  Varying direction of the brush strokes also gives a nice wood grain.  Now set it aside for at least a week to dry to the touch.  Then overcoat with a clear coat or Tamiya clear yellow or clear orange.  Oil paints are a pain to use, but its the only type of paint I have found that works.

If you search around the web you'll find a number of tutorials on how to create wood grain using oil paints.

I hope this will help you out.

 

Thank you very much for the detailed explanation. I tried oil paints on an Eduard 1/48 Fokker D.VII interior and it came out OK but did take forever to dry. In fact I don't think it was really dry when I put the fuselage together. I'll go to the local art supply store tomorrow and get some of that drying oil and give it a try. A friend gave me a big zip-lock bag full of Windsor Newton oil paint so I'm pretty well set there.

 

I'm really enjoying your build. I have always had a thing for WW I aircraft but the 1/48 Fokker was my first shot at a biplane and I loved it. The WNW Dolphin is head and shoulders better though.

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