Bruce_Crosby Posted October 15, 2019 Author Share Posted October 15, 2019 Hi Richard, Your guess is as good as mine as there's only the picture on that posting and I think it's nylon or similar. Hence the term Lanyard, meaning its not wire or cable. Plus who puts wire cable on a parachute? It's not spliced, there are definitely two bits of lanyard there. Might just be looped round for a sliding fit, or might be whipped. It's not cemented in place yet, so if anyone's got a better picture of a similar assembly? Regards, Bruce Crosby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted October 15, 2019 Share Posted October 15, 2019 24 minutes ago, Bruce_Crosby said: Hi Richard, Your guess is as good as mine as there's only the picture on that posting and I think it's nylon or similar. Hence the term Lanyard, meaning its not wire or cable. Plus who puts wire cable on a parachute? It's not spliced, there are definitely two bits of lanyard there. Might just be looped round for a sliding fit, or might be whipped. It's not cemented in place yet, so if anyone's got a better picture of a similar assembly? Regards, Bruce Crosby The two lines at the top are almost certainly wire, and spliced, whipped beyond the splice and with a thimble in the eye (I'm a rope nerd - you'll have guessed) To me, the bit going into the box could be two lines, if so they are whipped together near the shackle and again half way into the bag. One of the strands has got a coloured fibre in it (it makes splicing easier, you don't get as lost as if all three strands are identical) like this: Where the whipping is, the coloured fibre has disappeared As I said, nit-picking stuff. It might add a bit of visual interest to the lanyard though And rule one always applies - it's your model, build it as you want Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce_Crosby Posted October 15, 2019 Author Share Posted October 15, 2019 (edited) Hi Richard, I blew up the photo and it’s definitely two parts going back into the bag. And as you said, it’s whipped in two places, just as it meets the shackle and and about half way back to the bag. I’ll use ultra thin lead wire for that. Yes, the two cables attached to the shackle are just that, metal cables. They run out to anchor points on the ends of the axles, but looped in the run so that they will angle back at about 60 degrees to the centre line when deployed. They are tied up to all the support legs and the back of the axle with either thin metal wire or nylon breaking cable, probably about 25 kg breaking strain as the wire cable needs to be quite hefty to stop the trolley which is going to be travelling at well over 100mph when the chute opens. Edit: the shackle is a 912 pattern (914 is the round type) but I’m not sure of the size, probably F or G. Regards, Bruce Crosby Edited October 15, 2019 by Bruce_Crosby RLWP 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted October 15, 2019 Share Posted October 15, 2019 Agreed. Wire for strength in the upper bits, stranded rope for the lanyard to give a bit of shock absorption I've always admired people who can splice wire cable like that. It's supposed to be hard to work because of the stiffness, and bloody dangerous because of the sharp ends. The cables on my Sturmey Archer were bad enough... Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce_Crosby Posted November 11, 2019 Author Share Posted November 11, 2019 Hi Guys, At the moment this project has stalled. Having a panic about how the RATO units would be mounted. I hope to pick it up again soon. However, there has been one change, I moved the front strut that connects the Me-262 and the He-162 as the lower end was in the middle of a panel. It just irked me and eventually I pulled it off, filled the hole and relocated the strut back on a frame line where it could actually bear some load. With the angle change, I needed to shorten the strut and re-angle the ends that fit into the two airframes. Then blend in the damaged painted bits, prime and touch up. I'll try and get some photos up later. Regards, Bruce Crosby Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce_Crosby Posted November 11, 2019 Author Share Posted November 11, 2019 (edited) Hi Guys, Some photos of the nose strut relocation. You can see the bottom end of the strut was smack in the middle of a panel. Not good! Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr So I heaved it off and here's the scar! Changes by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr About an hour later, a shortened, re-angled strut test fitted. Still had to build the bottom pivots. Changes by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr With the paint back on. Changes by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Changes by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr No progress here though. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Oh well, that's it so far. Regards, Bruce Crosby Edited November 11, 2019 by Bruce_Crosby spelling 109, LSP_Kevin, TorbenD and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 So far, so DAMNED good. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 Wow, great stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce_Crosby Posted November 16, 2019 Author Share Posted November 16, 2019 (edited) Hi Guys, More Mistel ramblings! I rebuilt the front mountings on the RATO units, adding brass wire and green Stuff epoxy putty to strengthen the bits. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Then started adding Plastruct rod for the mounting frames. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Here's all four with the struts trimmed to length. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Added four filler caps to the front fuel tank. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Items for making the cables from the braking parachute to the axle ends. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Lead wire twisted to make the cables Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Eye ends using shaped pewter sheet as the liner Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr And brass tube as the ferrules Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr How it goes together. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr With the brass ferrules painted Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Now for the kick in the teeth: Someone noticed I got the cables twisted the wrong way! So still debating whether to scrap these two and start again. It's 7pm here in the UK, if I pull my finger out I reckon I can have them rebuilt by midnight! Regards, Bruce Crosby Edited November 16, 2019 by Bruce_Crosby spelling Fanes, TorbenD and LSP_Kevin 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted November 16, 2019 Share Posted November 16, 2019 6 minutes ago, Bruce_Crosby said: Now for the kick in the teeth: Someone noticed I got the cables twisted the wrong way! Damn - I wasn't going to mention that. Especially as this is gorgeous: Richard Lothar and Out2gtcha 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce_Crosby Posted November 17, 2019 Author Share Posted November 17, 2019 Hi Guys, I spent a few hours pondering whether to fix the twist in the cables and eventually came to the conclusion it had to be done. Knowing it had taken ages to build them in the first place, I started at 7pm last night and fully expected to still be there at midnight. Here's the cables, uppermost with the old twist, bottom is the new twist. At the top of the photo you can see the pile of cut off eye ends and the new brass ferrules. I stripped the eye ends and reused the pewter liners. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr And here are the new cables with the correct twist. I didn't even use new lead wire, it is soft enough to just untwist and retwist the other way. If I had used copper wire, my first choice, there's no way I would have got the kinks out and it would have meant cutting completely new wires. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr The brass ferrules have since been painted but I haven't taken a photo yet. Total rebuild time was about an hour once I got my backside in gear! Hope somebody finds this useful. And a big thanks to John Colasante on SMCG who pointed out the error. Regards, Bruce Crosby LSP_Kevin, TorbenD and Fanes 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted November 17, 2019 Share Posted November 17, 2019 simply epic stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted November 17, 2019 Share Posted November 17, 2019 7 minutes ago, Bruce_Crosby said: And here are the new cables with the correct twist. Twist = lay. And I recognise that sort of nagging fanaticism, I'm rather inclined to it myself And... Your new ones look better than the old ones, you've got a much more even lay to them Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce_Crosby Posted November 22, 2019 Author Share Posted November 22, 2019 Hi Guys, The braking parachute primed: Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr And Painted: Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Raw Chassis: Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Primed: Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr And painted: Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Added the bogies for a look-see, RATO units in the background. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr RATO painted with Mission Models White Aluminium plus Chrome, then a wash of Wilder Black/Brown oils. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Chute pack test fit: Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr More coming Regards, Bruce Crosby Kagemusha, LSP_Kevin, TorbenD and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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